Rose's Sewing Room

Styling Advice Please

2011-12-11T13:18:00.000-08:00

I finished Silhouette #311 yesterday. Today, I tried various pieces of jewelry with it and, finally, decided on a simple gold necklace and red earrings. To me, the shoes are perfect although they don't show very well in the pictures. I'm in love with the fabric. I'm pleased with the fit although it may be a tiny bit too tight. The jury is still out on that. Usually, I don't wear tops that are this fitted. I plan to wear it to a casual Christmas party. Once I put it with the pants that I plan to wear, I wasn't sure whether to wear it buttoned, opened, or partly buttoned. First, the closed version:
This is a side view of the closed version:

Then, I tried the blouse opened since the camisole matches it pretty well.

Then, I tried partially buttoned the blouse:

Although I am leaning toward the buttoned view, I'm not sure. What do you think?

I love the small sizing in the Silhouette patterns and the cup sizing. (I know it doesn't matter but it still feels good!) I used the C cup with size 3 for the top tapering to size 4 at the hip. I didn't make any other alterations to the pattern. That's pretty amazing for me! This was a quick, easy pattern to sew. I cut the buttom of the blouse body and sleeves on the scalloped edges. Yea! There was not any hemming! I didn't even do my usually sway back adjustment. I think that the fit of the back is fine without iit

I guess I should have moved the hose for the pictures. It's been so dry here that I just keep it out on the patio and didn't even notice it. My puppy, Roxy, managed to get into a few pictures. She's always close by. I don't think that I could find a sweeter dog. I have a few other garments finished and planned to take pictures of me wearing them. The camera battery died at the end of these pictures. I have some poor pictures of them on Dolly. I think I'd rather wait until I have some decent pictures.

I haven't blogged for a while because DH was in the hospital again. Poor guy is miserable and in pain. I'm not sure that I'm happy with my new role as "Nurse Rose". I never wanted to be a nurse and have minimal skills in that area. Now, I can even change the bandage over large surgical areas. Please don't laugh. There is a lot of skin prep with my hyper allergic husband. I discovered there are special skin pads and tape that can be used. It's so important to have the right tools for nursing as well as sewing.

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

2011-10-24T13:39:00.000-07:00

First up is the good. This is Jalie 2806 Scoopneck Top. I've made it before and will make it again. I especially like the fabric which is a very comfortable cotton knit from the old Fabric Fairy. Roxy seems to like it, too.

The part that is expecially good is the back. Look..no bunching!!! I didn't even pull the top down. I finally have a TNT back knit top that I like. That is an accomplishment for me. :)

Then, there is the bad news, Burda Style Magazine 08/2010 #120. There is nothing wrong with the blouse except that it looks terrible on me. I love the fabric. I was dressing to go out and DH sent me back to closet to find another top. I really tried. You are looking at 20 pintucks around the neck and sleeves (had to add 2 more on the front and back to fit the neck) where I had to measure, sew, and pull through threads. The top is ENORMOUS. The finished version is big after taking 3 inches off both sides. Normally, I make a 38 top tapering to a 40 hip with a Burda pattern. This time I made a straight 38 because I was concerned that it would be too big. It's going in the Goodwill bag. I just hope someone will enjoy wearing it.

You can see jacket #5 sitting on the bench. It has one button and requires 5. I really need to get those 4 buttons on the jacket. I'm dragging my feet because it is a spring/summer jacket. With only a few buttons to go, I don't want to put it on UFO shelf. (There's not any room anyway.)

The ugly part is my own sewing skills. I seem to be making everything twice these days. I don't mean sewing 2 versions either. That definitely is slowing my progress through the sewing list. I thought that I could make the Jalie top in my sleep. Well, I must have shut my eyes when I sewed the neckband. There was a big gap in the front. I had rip the neckband off, regather the front, and sew the neckband again. I never like frog sewing, but doing it with a knit is a slow process for me. The neckband on the pintuck gapped also so I ripped it, added pintucks and sewed the neckband on again. Hopefully, I can get the neck correct with future sewing. With the orange jacket the binding came loose in a number of places. With that one, I made an eye appointment. My eyes are fine. I guess I need to sew a little slower so I can get it right the first time. I'm going to work on a sheathe dress muslin now. The jacket buttons will be there tomorrow!

Happy Birthday, Roxy

2011-09-10T07:23:00.000-07:00

It's a ducky day. Roxy is one year old and still a puppy. She's growing more lovable everyday. When I was shopping the dog toy clearance rank at Petco, I saw this duck. It looks like the same one that Shannon's dog, Hartley , received for his birthday. I use many ideas that I get from Blogland, even buying dog toys! This idea was a definite winner. She loves that duck and continues to shower it with kisses. I tried to get her eyes in the picture, but she won't take her eyes off that beloved duck.

If I can stop watching her, I might get some sewing done.

The Lost Jacket

2011-09-04T08:58:00.000-07:00

No, I didn't lose my JAM #4. I'm referring to the TV Series "Lost". Actually, I sometimes felt like I was mentally losing it while working on this simple shrug. It's the Sewing Workshop e-shrug. Here's a view of the back:This jacket started back in April when I saw Robin's version of this pattern. I copied her sewing techniques, including watching episodes of "Lost" while doing the handwork. There is no copyright on blogs, right? I'm not planning on selling the shrug, selling the techniques, or even doing it again! I do like the results and certainly enjoyed watching "Lost". It took me a while to finish because I was doing more watching than sewing and, of course, I had to watch the Japanese subtitles. I got to the beginning of Season 2, but there probably won't be a Season 3 in my future. The series is starting to drag for me and is getting a little too weird. That's good because I started doing more sewing.

Now, I'll get back to sewing process. I used a bamboo knit rather than a double knit. Yes, that caused me problems using techniques that were done on a double knit. If you are interested in the entire process, check Robin's blog. She did not say how wide she cut her binding. I decided (just to make life interesting) to cut a narrow binding. The lesson learned was: drapy bamboo knit interfaced with pro-sheer does not turn easily. I almost got it all done before the interfacing started to tear. The only solution was to serge the jacket edges or make a new, wider binding. In my usual manner, I took the more challenging option. I cut my binding 2 1/2" wide. It was still slow going while turning the binding. Then, I got lots of practice doing a fell stitch. Yes, I do a decent rolled hem which will appear on future jackets of this type.

Many thanks to those of you who e-mailed me about the jacket muslin in my last post. I'm overwhelmed by the amount of caring from bloggers. I do have the back fixed to my liking. The front fits, but the sleeve area does not look just right to me. I'm going to let it set a bit and then look at it again. Overall, I like the jacket. I learned a lot about fitting my body in this extremely tedious and frustrating process.

Can this be fixed?

2011-08-24T14:33:00.001-07:00

I have this possibly crazy desire for a fitted jacket. My favorite is FSG 1945. This pattern offers a number of style changes using the basic pattern. The fear of fitting kept the pattern sitting in my pile of "one of these days". Then, I discovered that NancyErickson offers an internet fitting service for her pattern. My Fitting Adventure began with a size 12 which is much too large for me. Although I measured a jacket that fits to determine the size, it's still hard for me with a totally new pattern company. After several weeks of trying to get it to fit, we decided to trash and start with smaller size. Here's the back of Muslin #2. Actually, it looks reasonable compared to my first muslin (not shown to avoid appearing ridiculous). This is size 8 which is the smallest size. It's still too big in the top although I had to squeeze into the hip area.

I took a tuck in the top area, took in the back and side back, and let out the front/middle front seams (gotta have room for the tummy). Here's the adjusted muslin that I'm working on now.

The old winkles disappeared and new ones appeared! I just that's the life of fitting garments. Can it be fixed? I hope so. I'm taking in the back around the waist area and taking a larger seam in the armscye. We'll see how that goes. I'm not showing the front because I haven't worked much on that. I hope that it will look like this:

I also am working on the 1945A front. If all goes well, it will look like this:

While waiting for responses from Nancy, I've been working on two other jackets. I'm 95% done with one (lots of hand sewing) and 1/3 done with another. With an ailing husband, there is limited sewing time around my house these days. I'm going to have to sew like a maniac to catch up with my JAM commitment.

For now, I'm back to my jacket fitting adventure.

T-Shirt Time

2011-07-13T14:36:00.000-07:00

A couple of my recent t-shirts are post worthy. If you look closely, you can see the embroidery around the neckline. I wanted to do something simple and a little different. Now I know that embroidery on a light-weight bamboo knit is anything but simple. It's an excercise in patience and many pre-samples.

I used this particular knit because it was a perfect match to my paisley jacket. I also did a pair of pullon pants the same color as the knit. The pants are made out of tropical weight wool garbardine. I won't be wearing or modeling them until the temperature goes below 90 F. It's just too hot!

The second t-shirt is my first attemp at Frankenpatterning (Is that a word?). The top is KS3156 and the bottom is KS2694. It worked pretty well but I should have used my TNT for the top. It fits better. The other thing I learned is the need to ALWAYS shorten the back above the waist. I normally do that but I forgot with my focus on matching the two patterns. As I look at the photo, I also think this top needs a bit of pressing. That one can be fixed easily! I wish all construction problems could be fixed that easily. I'll definitely do more frankenpatterns in the future. Fitting is a big issue with me. I need to use parts of patterns that fit. Otherwise, I'll spend my life fitting patterns instead of sewing. Yes, I love patterns and love variety.
With this t-shirt, I used the banded curved neckline method in Lynda Maynard's Dressmaker's Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques. I don't think the method really is "couture", but I sure like the way it looks.

I'm back to working on another jacket muslin. I'm dreaming of a TNT jacket!!

Parting Shot:

My sewing companion, Roxy is growing! (You can see some of my project bags, too. I forgot to close the closet door.)

Burda Style 4/2011 #115

2011-07-03T14:59:00.000-07:00

I've been a terrible blogger. The weeks seem to go so fast! I do have one legitimate excuse. I've spent a lot of time trying to be a nurse to an ailing husband. For a while, I was cooking 3 meals a day. That's amazing for me since I never cook anymore. I guess I did all right because he's a lot better now and back to his role as the family chef. I tried to work on my April jacket and seemed to make a mess of everything in this simple jacket. It's close to being finished now so I'll save that tale for another post. I also have been working on muslins for May, June, and July jackets. Do you think that I've had some problems focusing? I know I did! I did finish fitting one jacket. Hopefully, I can catch up with my JAM project this summer. At least, that's my plan.

I was able to wrap my mind around a simple dress that I love, Burda Style Magazine, 4/11 #115.

I added a neck band and eliminated the pockets. I don't use pockets on a dress and certainly don't need any extra stuff on my hips. The back is simple. (Please forgive the tilted tripod. I'm out of practice with it.)

I've chosen the fabric to make a top version of this pattern. I probably won't make the dress again, but I like the neckline for a top. This top goes with the pants and jacket that were planned for June. I wish I could get my sewing to keep pace with my plans!!

Originally, I planned this dress to wear for our 50th wedding anniversary celebration in Paris. I wanted a style and fabric that would pack well. This poly satin worked well for the intended purpose. Of course, that trip was cancelled. I still got to wear the dress. My thoughtful children took us to dinner at a local French Restaurant. We had wonderful food and a great time. That evening was so special that I don't regret our missed trip. We may make it to Paris sometime in the future. I'll even sew another dress for the trip!

Meanwhile, I'll try to concentrate on jackets!

JAM #3 Vogue 8675

2011-05-22T06:15:00.000-07:00

The jacket was almost finished in April. I had a little motivation problem doing the last bits (pulling through threads and final pressing). It's so hot here that I wanted to work on brighter summery fabrics. It's too close to the final product to go on the UFO shelf (There's no room for it anyway!) Finally, a long self-talk got me to finish it.

The jacket was quick and easy to sew. Actually, it closer to a wrap than a jacket. I did shorten the length and the sleeves a couple of inches. That's it. I plan to make a LBD to wear with it, but I won't push the black outfit motivation too far. I doubt that I'll wear this until cooler Fall weather. Usually, I crop out the mess around a garment in photos. This mess consists of the patterns and fabric that are in my dreams and will, hopefully, become a reality soon.

This picture shows the jacket the way it is suppposed to be worn. At least, it's closer to the pattern envelope (see last post). Most of the time, it'll swing open like the first picture. I will wear something a bit more appropriate than the brown that's on Dolly. (Reminder to myself: I need to get that dressform covered properly in the white fabric already purchased.)
This is a photo of the back:

Here's a closeup of the trim:

So, I haven't posted in two months. I've been a bad blogger, but I have good reasons. I finished tax season with minimal stress and took off for my usual week at the beach. We went to Daytona Beach Shores which is less than 30 minutes away. Yea, we didn't have the stress of driving. It's a great place to just relax, read, enjoy the beach, and watch the sunset. All the action occurs in closeby Daytona Beach. We had plenty of that in our younger days but prefer a quieter atmosphere now.

Soon after that, I spend a very long Saturday night in ER with DH who was having severe stomach pains. He had to have emergency surgery and is still in the hospital. He is doing much better now. Hopefully, he can go home today. I keep watching the phone. I know that doesn't make the call from the hospital come any faster. Somehow, I feel better just looking at it.

Most of my sewing has been done in periods of less than 15 minutes. I've kept it to simple projects and am amazed at how much I accomplished. I've made pull-on pants to match the paisley jacket and t-shirts. A couple of the tops are worthy of a post, but those are long sleeve. I seldom wear long sleeves in the summer, but I'll do a post later. Right now, I'm working on the Sewing Workshop e-shrug. This is another simple project. One day last week I decided to forget the world and just sew. It was great except the shoulders were finished and bound on the right side rather than the wrong side. I bound them with the knit fabric and the look was c***. It took a while to rip those seams and fix them with a better looking rayon binding. I didn't even get upset at my stupidity. I just sewed. I was so happy to have a block of time to sew!

JAM #3: The Planning

2011-03-21T10:14:00.000-07:00

Although I'd like to start sewing yellows and corals for Spring/Summer, I have a wardrobe for a more conservative outfit. Honest, there are times (not too many) when I want to just look like a lady. So, it's time for a LBD and a matching jacket. The jacket will be V8675 which has some swing (can't be tooo conservative!). I plan to make view A (the red one) without the pockets.

The fabric is a drapy RPL that I bought from Timmel's years ago. I need to add something to break up all that black and think I'll add this trim. I tried my entire stash of trims and this was the only one that looked like a possibility.

Now, I have a dilemna about the direction to turn the trim. I could do it this way.

I could turn it around and do it this way.

What do you think? Maybe I'm making a big deal out of nothing.

First, I have to finish the pants and top to wear with the paisley jacket. They are a camel color. Fortunately, I can wear the jacket with lots of other colors. Yea! I love the idea of adding some versatile jackets to my wardrobe.

JAM #2

2011-03-19T14:41:00.000-07:00

I finished M3750 over a week ago. It's tax season for me so I'm just getting to posting about it. I like it although it's not in style (according to the fashion magazines). I'm really not too worried about the Style Police. What do they know about MY style anyway? First of all, I like paisley. I don't give a hoot if paisley is out and florals are in. Besides, there are some little flowers in the design, if you look closely. I understand that pink is the New Red. That's nice for those people who can wear pink. There are very few shades of pink that I can wear. Usually, pink makes me look like I'm going to my own funeral. That's not exactly the look that I hope to achieve. The pink that I can wear is more of a coral color. Hmmm...good idea there for a jacket in the near future. Anyhow, I like red which supposedly was the New Black last year. Maybe I'll make a black jacket,too. I'm not sure but I don't think black is one of the "Season Colors".

The jacket is loosely fitted. It does fit well in the shoulders and neck. Geez, I think I finally got that fit right so I can start moving down my body for a more fitted look in the future. I'll probably wear this jacket opened most of the time. Here's the back:

I made the jacket from a cotton twill. It's super simple to sew. Of course, I have to complicate it by drafting a lining. I'm very glad I did. The cotton would be difficult to slip on and off. It's getting hot here in Florida. The jacket probably will come off as soon as I go outside.

This is the pattern envelope:

I may make it again in a suede for Fall, as shown in the large picture.

Now, I'm working on pants to wear with the jacket. I'm using a light weight, tropical weight garbadine. I'm afraid they might bag if I don't underline it. I always seem to add a complication to simple garments. That's just the joys of sewing I guess. :)

JAM #2 is Coming

2011-03-06T15:17:00.000-08:00

Unfortunately, it's still February in my sewing room. I'm still working on my #2 jacket, M3750. It's a simple, loose fitting jacket. If I hadn't decided to add side pockets and a lining, I would have been wearing it by now. I like the additions so I week late is all right by me. This picture was taken on the last day in February. I had the lining and buttonholes/buttons to finish. As of today, the lining is finished. I drafted the lining using Claire Shaeffer's "High-Fashion Sewing Secrets". Thanks Rachel for directing me to that resource. Claire's directions worked like a charm.

The most difficult part of the jacket was matching the print. I don't brag very often, but I will this time. This is a picture of the front. I barely can see the pins.

I'm off to do buttonholes! I hope that everyone is having a great weekend!!

JAM #1 S2508

2011-02-19T07:40:00.000-08:00

I finished the first jacket of 2011 last weekend, S2508. It's sat on Dolly while I tried to figure out what is wrong. I knew there was something that I probably could fix. Finally, it dawned on me. The buttons are too small. I tried Jo's which is the only local place that I can buy buttons. There was nothing that I would put on this jacket. So, I placed an order for buttons that I think would look great. I decided to go ahead and post about the jacket. It's been too long since my last blog entry. Also, I'm beginning to wonder if it would be worth the work to replace them. Sewing on the buttons is easy enough to do. I'm afraid that I will have to lengthen the buttonholes and hand sew to finish them. That's a scarey thought!! Maybe, it doesn't look that bad after all. I like the jacket as it is and would wear it. Also, my fellow Floridians can be assured that there will not be anymore cold weather. All I have to do is finish a jacket and the weather is beautiful with 78 degree (F) temperature.

I think that the sleeve tabs and ruffles are so cute! I like the belt in the back. I even managed to figure out how to add a hanging chain.

I enjoyed making this jacket. I can see why so many people enjoy sewing jackets. That's good because I have 11 more to sew this year. Even though I'm behind and bringing up the rear in the JAM group, I think I'll accomplish my goal or come close. Still, I will admit to jacket insanity with this one. I did so many stupid things with this jacket adventure. The following is a list for my future reference and, maybe, for someone who wants to embark on this exciting experience:

1. Pay attention to the fabric choice. I'll remember this one when I'm trying a lot of new techniques. I've made a simple jacket but have no experience with tailoring or anything this detailed. I've never been successful with princess seams. So, what did I do? I gave myself plenty of challenges with fabric that ravels a lot, stretches, slips, and generally talks back to the sewing machine. (The conversation was ugly!)

2. Check the lining fit before cutting it. I followed the pattern and the lining did not fit very well. It was too long or slightly too short. I could have taken a little bit of time to adjust the pattern for lining. As it was, I spend a lot of time fiddling around with the lining.

3. Use a heavier interfacing with fronts that have pockets with flaps. Probably, I should have just eliminated the pockets with this fabric. I ignored that realization because I love having pockets to stash my stuff.

4. If I do 4 messy buttonhole samples and, finally, do one that looks good, that doesn't mean the jacket buttonholes will look good. I need to have consistency in the sample or I can expect the same results on the jacket. I did several messes and pulled out a lot of my own hair in the buttonhole process.

5. Pay attention to the jacket style BEFORE cutting the fabric. I originally cut a double breasted jacket. When I did the pin fitting, I realized that the style would look like crap on me. Naturally, I didn't have enough fabric to recut the front and the collar for the style that I made. Ever try to stay on grain when you are recutting jacket pattern pieces? I don't want to think about how long that mistake took to correct.

Overall, I worked my way through underlining and sew-in interfacing with pleasing results. There was no way that I could fuse interfacing to this fabric. Believe me, I tried. Fortunately, I did pay attention to those samples. (If I didn't I wouldn't be showing you a jacket!) I was inspired by the jacket that Gigi made and followed a lot of her construction tecniques. Take a look if you want to see an awesome version of this jacket.

JAM #2 is cut out and ready for sewing next week. This weekend we have lots of family plans. I'll be playing until Tuesday!

Have a great rest of the weekend!!

A Lot Done A Lot to Go

2011-01-17T12:14:00.001-08:00

The month is over half over. At least, I'm a little more than half done with my January jacket. Despite the bumps along the road, I'm enjoying jacket sewing. That's good. I still have 12 to finish for the year. I just keep chugging along. As of this morning, this is what I have completed. I like it! I'm following "Jackets for Real People" which is opened on my bench. For the first time, I'm pin fitting the fabric. There are a lot of minor adjustments needed. It's a lot easier to move pins than use the seam ripper. Here's the front. I thought I had the front pinned straight until I saw the photo. Oh, the magic of pictures!

The back needs more work. I'd say those seams are not quite straight. (LOL)

The side seams are not straight either. I guess I was just having a crooked day!

First, I went to the dress form. I'm not flexible enough to work on the back while wearing the garment. I do believe that I see some winkles.

A few minutes work and it looks better to me.

Next, I finished the sleeves next. I think that they hang better and are super cute.

It's a rainy, dreary day in Central Florida. Roxy doesn't think much of peeing in the rain and is exhausted. She's busy taking a well-deserved nap (in her viewpoint).

My answer to such a dreary day in "sunny" Florida is to check out the new patterns. There's a BMV sale today and tomorrow. Then, I'll work on the other jacket front. :)

The Last of 2010

2011-01-11T08:22:00.000-08:00

I finally have a Jalie Sweetheart top! Now I know why everyone loves it so much. My only regret is waiting so long to sew it. I wore it for our family Christmas Eve Celebration. Despite sticky fingers and crawling around on the floor, the top still looks fine. The sewing was easy. I like the fit. I like the style. I just plain like this top and will make it again many times. Before I make it again, I will check those diagonal winkles and see what's going on. I didn't notice them before. I'm amazed at what photos will show!The next garment is M5970, a Comfy Blanket for DH. Although it was supposed to be a Christmas present, I gave it to him in November. It was so cold here. I took a cute picture of him that was, unfortunately, corrupted in my computer. He has a face rash and doesn't want a picture taken until it clears. Meanwhile, I want to finish documenting my sewing for 2010. The front pocket is stuffed with fabric for the photo. Normally, the pocket holds his snacks as well as the remote.The most difficult part of this project was cutting it out. I made the L size. It's so big that I had to crawl around on the floor to accomplish that task. The sewing only took a couple of hours. I just serged the edges rather than folding over and stitching. With this heavy fleece, it was too bulky. I also added a foot pocket which he never uses. DH is over 6 feet tall and this blanket still drags on the floor when he stands. If I were to make this again,I would measure the length before finishing. I won't cut this one because he does enjoy wrapping it around his feet.

That's it for 2010! I haven't made much progress on my first jacket for 2011. I'll get back to that tonight.

The First White Shirt

2011-01-09T07:28:00.001-08:00

Actually, I should say the first practice shirt in the blog title. I'm embarrassed by the poor workmanship and considered not posting at all. Hey, I don't pretend to be an expert seamstress but I sure am working at it. I did commit to sewing one white shirt with Barbara's white shirt sew-a-long. That mission is accomplished (sort of). Here is Ottobre 5/2010 #5. I like this pattern a lot and think I tried too hard to do a professional job. Maybe the wires in my brain were just loose. I made the collar three times with only a little bit of improvement each time and ended with a stretched neckline! First, the things that I like about this pattern. There are separate upper and under collars. The yoke is nice. The shape of the side seams is great for someone with no waist (like me). It has a slight curve that keeps it from looking like a box. Somehow, I managed to make it a tad too small. It fits but is too tight for my liking. IF I wear it, I will wear it opened over a shirt. I didn't even do the buttons and buttonholes on the front. I'm amazed that DH said he likes the blouse a lot. He's painfully honest about his critiques so I don't think that he was being kind. The awesome cotton fabric helps a lot. It has a light gray toned stripe that adds more than I expected. At least, I got the stripes straight. The fabric came from Timmel Fabric. I wish that I had bought more before Julie went out of business.

Other than my limited skill with a collar and stand, the major problem I had was the fit of the back yoke. When I gathered between the notches, the back bottom didn't fit. I released the gathers until it fit properly. The crappy gathering job is a result of not doing the gathering stitches again. In the front, the gathering thread broke and I didn't bother to do them again. As a result, my gathering is sloppy. I'm pretty good at gathering most of the time. Yep, I will take the time to redo, if necessary, in the future. Originally, I planned to do a placket cuff opening and wish I had. Probably, I didn't need anymore frustration at the time. The pattern instructions have you do a narrow seam for the placket opening. I don't even like them in RTW.

The gathers at the back collar are a result of the neckline stretching. THAT is not part of the pattern. The gathers in the sleeve back are Dolly's fault --- My fault because I haven't gotten around to fixing her too fat back biceps. That part does fit better when I wear it.

It's been a couple of weeks since I finished the shirt. I don't feel better about this shirt now, but I do feel better about sewing shirts. I've already chosen a fabric to make this shirt in a print. It's a good pattern. I just have to add a little width to the side seams. Also, I will make another white shirt sometime soon. I still have that wardrobe need.

Frankly, I just think that my brain has been muddled for the past couple of months. I'm hopeful that explains my poor sewing results. Certainly, it is the reason that I haven't done any blogging. Here's the "highlights" of what has been happening. All the nasty difficulties occurred while we had on and off company and lots of holiday happenings (That part was good!).

In September, I had to make the decision to put my 16 year old cat, Harry, to sleep. He had kidney failure and was suffering so much. I believe, along with my vet, that I did the right thing. I've lost cats before but never had to decide about their living and never owned a kitty more than four years. I knew it would be hard, but I didn't realize how hard it would be. I still feel like there was a part of me removed. In some sense, there was because we were so close for so many years.

DH has wanted a puppy for years. I wouldn't allow that because I knew my beloved cat would be cruel to any other animal. Well, Roxy joined our family in October when she was two months old. She's pretty good but still a puppy. I'll have to say that puppies are more demanding than kittens. I had a lot to learn (and still do). Although it may have been to soon for me, I'm glad now that I have her. She obeys most of the time, has only an occasional potty training accident, and is super affectionate. The main problem that I have now is her love for everybody. She tried to wade through the marsh to get to some people in a boat. Her "come" command didn't work very well, but I did catch her finally.

I live in the lighening capital of the world and have all kinds of protection --surge protectors and lightening rods around and on the house. In one of our storms, I lost my wireless router. DH decided he would order a new one and fix it. That was sweet of him but he is more technology challenged than I am. Two weeks later, I was still trying to get internet. In the meantime, I could use his computer. I don't know how he coped. That computer was so slow that I think I could have run a marathon while waiting for the internet connection. Yes, his computer went to the shop. For $50 he got his computer up to a reasonable speed. As soon as I got internet and email working, my keyboard decided not to type a "R". Okay, keyboards are only $10. Naturally, this occurred on Christmas Eve. DH fought the crowds to buy me one and, yes, that one didn't work at all. The replacement one did. I'm back in business for the time being.

There were a few other unpleasant events: DH developed a rash that is a mild form of cancer and itches like crazy, all of our tomatoes and peppers were lost in a hard freeze after we spent hours covering them, the pipes froze twice during our numerous hard freezes (We spent an hour at 4 AM with a hair dryer defrosting the second time that it happened.) Then, We spent New Year's Eve with the plumber trying to locate the water pipe that apparently burst during the freeze. I probably have forgotten a few things, but I'm glad that I've forgotten.

So far, 2011 has been much better. I feel like the wires in my head are reconnected. In the sewing area, I joined the jacket-a-month group. I'm excited about it and am making some progress on my first jacket. I've done all the little pieces: collar, tabs, pockets, and sleeve ruffles. I think they look pretty good. I'll pin fit this afternoon or tommorrow - just to make sure that I don't have any fit surprises.

My puppy, Roxy, kept looking at me while I was working on the white blouse. I'm sure she wondered why I wasn't having fun playing with the fabric. Isn't that a confused expression?

I had just downloaded pictures of a couple of things that made when we had that surge and lost power. I had to stop because company was coming for dinner. We had electricity in time to save dinner, but the pictures I took were corrupted. Of course, I was efficient for a change and deleted the pictures off my camera. I have retaken the pictures so I'll post the last of 2010 sewing later this week.

The First White Shirt: Ottobre 05-2010-5

2010-11-10T10:36:00.000-08:00

The pattern is almost altered for Ottobre 05-2010-5, view B. The front and back are pattern fitted. As soon as I check the sleeves for fit, I'll be ready to cut. Here are my "pre-game notes".

1. Why did you choose this pattern?

I like the yoke and the pleats on the front and back. I wanted a tailored shirt with some minor design elements.

2. Where will you wear this?

I'll be able to wear this blouse most anywhere I go. Mostly, I'll wear it with jeans for errands and family outings. It can be worn with dressy pants and a jacket for evenings on the town. Depending on my mood, I can wear it with a skirt for a dressier look.

3. Why did you choose this fabric for this pattern?

I have some white shirting with light gray stripes. It came from Timmel's Fabrics, now out of business, so it has been aging in my stash for several years. I've seen several shirts with stripes on the blogs. I like the look and would like to try it.

4. What aspects of construction are you looking forward to as you sew this?

I actually am excited about sewing the collar and stand. I've only done that once, over a year ago. I used Pam's tutorial with success. It took me forever! I'll aiming for "practice makes perfect"! I've never made a sleeve placket. Although the pattern just uses a narrow seam for the sleeve slit, I'd like to add a placket. I'm looking forward to it. Am I sick or what?

5. What aspects of construction worry you? What do you think you might mess up?

The construction doesn't worry me. Maybe it should, but I just kind of jump into things. My biggest concern is fit. The one Ottobre knit top that I made was a fit disaster. That's why I spent so much time with the pattern work. I'm seeing rulers and bust points in my sleep! Hopefully, I've worked most of it out on paper. Me? Mess Up? I'm think positively right now. I'll let you know!

6. Are there any instruction in this pattern that you have alreay decided to disregard? Are you substituting another method and if so what will it be?

I've read through the instructions which are limited. I've decided to disregard them. I know how to do the basic sewing. For the collar and stand, I probably will use Pam's method. I'm considering using Gigi's method to try another approach. For the sleeve placket, I'll follow Dave Coffin's book.

The plan is to start sewing this weekend and get as far as I can. I do have a couple of quick projects that I need to finish first.

Meet Roxy

2010-11-08T12:24:00.000-08:00

Roxy will be joining our family on November 16. She is a King Charles Cavalier Spaniel and is looking forward to spending time in my sewing room! BTW, she comes from Orlando, Florida and has never been to Chicago. Yet, she already knows how to put on a show!!

Burda Style Magazine 04-2010-125

2010-11-08T10:14:00.000-08:00

I finally finished my red skirt this weekend and wore it Saturday night. As I was finishing some handwork Saturday afternoon, I felt like I was on Project Runway. The bow was doing some big time flopping around. No, I didn't glue it although I'll admit that I was tempted. Burda describes this skirt as : "The posh, slim-cut skirt lends aristocratic superiority to a wearer while a pleated hem flounce and back bow add a delightfully fanciful touch." I don't have any desire for "aristocratic superiority" and didn't feel any. The rest of the description is accurate. I love the skirt.

The pattern did not have any facing. I thought that I could be lazy and sew it per instructions. I've never sewed a lining directly to the top of the skirt. I'll never do it again! The waist was not very stable. I did use a woven wool with some lycra so that could be part of the problem. Often, laziness doesn't pay! I'll go back to using a facing or waistband or, at a minimum, elastic.

I used my skirt sloper for the top of the skirt. I have a high right hip so I always have to make this adjustment. Other than that, I made the skirt without alteration and followed the instructions. Yes, I really was able to understand the instructions -- scarey. I made a straight size 40. If I made it again, I would go with size 38 so that the skirt would be a bit snugger. I didn't consider that the lycra would cause some stretching. (Shame on me!)

I love the flounce and the bow. I think that the back is particularly cute.

Here's a close up of the bow:

I'm working on my shirt pattern and having a fit. Actually I should say that I am not having a fit yet. I've thought about changing patterns, but I am going to be stubborn. I'm determined to make it work!

Burda Style Magazine 01/2009/106

2010-10-27T11:17:00.000-07:00

As soon as I received this January 2009 issue of Burda Magazine, I traced this pattern. Then, I couldn't seem to find the right fabric. When I discovered this paisley knit from Fashionista Fabrics, I immediately thought of this pattern. I love the blouse so I think that I made the right choice. I probably thought of it because some version of it has appeared in several blogs recently.

I like these sleeves so much! At first, I was afraid of them but they went together easily.

I used Gigi's method of sewing the center panel bottom to the gathered cuff first. Then, I sewed the vertical seams. It worked like a charm. The corners even look pretty good. I'm so thankful that there are so many talented bloggers out there.

I'm working on a red skirt to wear with the top. Then, I'll model the outfit for another post. I need to get that skirt finished this week. As you can see from the top of my blog, I've joined Barbara's white shirt sew-along. I need a white shirt so this is the perfect opportunity to get it done. I want to get going on it so that maybe I can finish it with the group!

The Sophia Carry-all

2010-10-14T10:25:00.000-07:00

I love Amy Butler's Sophia Carry-all. It's small enough that it doesn't overwhelm my small frame, but big enough to carry around my stash of "stuff". The pattern description is: "Inspired by romantic travel films of the eary 60's. Stroll around town with this comfortably sized carry-all." Yep, I've done some "strolling" with my new bag although it is more of a Spring/Summer accessory.The inside is fully lined with pockets on both sides. I wasn't able to get a decent photo after it was finished, but did take one photo while making it. On one side I made two pocket per the pattern. On the other side I made three pockets with one to fit my cell phone.

The instructions are very detailed with lots of pictures to show the sewing steps. It was easy to make and would be a great pattern for someone who is sewing their first purse. Many thanks to Sigrid who sent me the pattern in her giveaway.

This carry-all has been finished for a while. DH has had back problems that are extremely painful. Also, my 15 year old cat, Harry, has been sick. As a result, I've done very little blog reading and even less sewing. DH is feeling much better. The plan is to start doing sewing again!

DeBubbled Delight

2010-09-05T16:26:00.000-07:00

This is Burda Style Magazine 05/2010 #106. The Burda description is "The dotted batiste dress is just right for summer. The balloon effect is achieved by a shorter skirt lining that is attached to the hem edge of the dress. The casing elastic in this seam then gathers or "puffs" the hem edge". When I made the bubble version, I did look like a "balloon" and the "puffs" definitely were there. I have enough "puffs" of my own, thank you Burda. I quickly found the seam ripper and burst the bubble.Overall, I like this revised version a lot. I especially like the final neckline although I needed to do several muslin revisions before I felt comfortable with it. I raised the neckline 1 inch and moved it 5/8 inch closer to the neck. I took 1 inch from the center of the bodice and lengthened it by 1 inch. Also, I did a 1/2 inch petite adjustment. I had to fiddle with the back darts a lot. I can't remember exactly what I did now. I did raise and move them. In the final dress, I reduced the side seam 1/2 inch from top to bottom. Despite the muslin fit, the dress was too big in this fabric. I learned a lot about fitting during the process which required a lot of experimenting, trying again, etc. etc. I do like this more fitted look in the top. The trick for me is getting it to fit and still be comfortable. I'm proud of my end results and learned quite a bit that I believe I can apply to other garments. Also, I was delighted with the fabric match of the back invisible zipper.

The fabric is 100% cotton from Fabric Mart. These pictures were taken after running several errands. Although it was hot and humid, the fabric is barely winkled. Amazing!!

On the down side, I wish that I had paid more attention to fitting the skirt. The full skirt is very comfortable, but it could lose about 3 inches in width to make it more A-line. When Shannon made her version, she changed the skirt to a sheath dress. For me, I don't think that the width needs to be reduced that much, but some reduction in width is definitely needed for de-bubbling.

I enjoyed wearing this dress and know that it will get lots of hot summer wear. It also came close to following Trinny & Susannah's rules for my body type. The square fitted top is recommended for my vase upper body and the slightly (I had too much) flared skirt of my lollipop lower body. Of course, I ignore their "rules" on a regular basis but I like using them to try new garment ideas. I love it when it works!

The Sophia Carry-all

2010-08-23T13:53:00.000-07:00

The very talented Sigrid had a giveaway to celebrate her 400th post (wow!). I won the Amy Butler Sophia Carry-all Pattern.
My dress is hanging in the closet before I hem it later this week. Meanwhile, I've started working on the purse. I don't care for the fabric used for the pattern photo. My main body will be winter white linen with cocoa cording and handles. The lining is a cocoa and white print.

So far, everything is cut out and the cording is ready. It's really more of a purse than a carry-all. It's big enough to carry all my stuff and not too big for my short frame. This project will be the finale of summer sewing. There's still a lot of warm weather ahead in sunny Florida, but I'm ready to start on more transitional Fall sewing.

A Cool Summer Top

2010-08-20T09:14:00.001-07:00

I've wanted to make this S2570 for a while and, finally, got to it. For summer, I usually prefer a brighter color than this pale purple fabric. Also, the fabric is very lightweight so I wasn't sure how it would work. In the beginning, I expected this top to be a muslin.

I am pleased with the result. The pattern is easy is to sew. I increased the seam at the shoulder by 1/2". Next time I'll do a 1/2" petite adjustment which should make the armscye smoother. I should have done a full bust adjustment but didn't. I had to let out the seam around the bust area. The fabric does wrinkle easily which is my only real problem with the blouse. I started taking pictures outside which did not work because of the glare and the humidity. The result of fiddling around with pictures is a crumbled blouse. At the same time, I fit in with the crowd. With a heat index over a hundred, everyone is a bit crumbled. I do like this pattern and definitely will make the blouse again. I also like the jacket which probably go on my sewing list for next Spring. I've got to think ahead! Right now, I'm developing a rather long list for Fall and trying to find time to finish my summer projects.

Excited About a Dish Rag

2010-08-17T05:22:00.000-07:00

I've wanted to learn to knit for a long time. After numerous unsuccessful attempts, I finally took a class at JoAnns. Probably, I just needed to spend some time working on the basics. I suppose that this is more of a practice sample than a dish rag. It looks like a dizzy something with a broken heart. The teacher got me started but neither of us could figure out why I kept picking up an extra stitch in some rows. About half way through, the light hit. I was picking up a stitch from the row below at the beginning of the next row. My photo shows where the new knowledge hit! I'm proud that the stiches are reasonably even. Also, I was able to follow a pattern and finish a project (despite the mistakes).I've started another knitting project, a simple shell. I'm amazed that I understand the pattern. So far, have measured for fit. Getting the correct gauge is my next challenge. I now know why people find knitting and crocheting so relaxing. Knitting will never take the place of sewing, but it will find its way on my project lists. I know that I have a lot to learn, but I believe that I can do it. I just have to take it slow and not attempt that complicated top that I love! That top will go on the list sometime in the future.

Life is getting in the way of my sewing, but I'm slowly making progress through my summer list. I've finished a top and will post pictures later this week. I have a Burda dress almost completed after a number of muslins (plus tears and temper tantrums). Learning requires getting through the frustration, right?

I'm off to finish chores and, hopefully get back to that dress later today.

Thinking About Proportion

2010-07-26T13:22:00.000-07:00

I've done more thinking than sewing during the past month. Hopefully, the results of all that "brain work" will be positive in the future. What I have finished, I like for the most part.

This skirt is S2698 and the top is S4275.

The skirt is a Project Runway pattern with options for the yoke and pleated skirt. I used Yoke B and Skirt F. I think that I have a guide for skirt length that seems to work consistently for me. I've tried a number of different methods and the length is usually about mid-knee. This method gives me a slightly longer skirt that I like better. The formula comes from the late Shannon Gifford. I measured from waist to floor using masking tape to hold the tape measurer for an accurate reading. This number is then divided by 5 to get a base number. The base number is then multiplied by 2, 3, and 4 for proportional skirt lengths. My waist to floor measurement is 39, divided by 5 is 7.8. The first length, times 2, is 15.6 which is way too short for me. The second length times 3 is 23.4 which is perfect for me. (Since I get blurry eyed with too many fractions, I just use 23.5 that is easier to measure.) The top is approximately 7.8 inches from the waist. Since I am almost flat in the hip area, there really isn't any "widest part" to consider in the measurement.

I like the square neckline and the flair of the skirt. I also like the slightly more fitted knit top. The outfit is close to the suggestions from Trinny & Susannah for my "vase/lollipop" body type.
I think that the skirt is a bit too wide although it fits. It comes to close to breaking Shannon Gifford's rule of "no skirt should appear wider than its length". While I love the pockets on this skirt, I think that I'll look better in a more streamlined skirt. If I do make the pattern again, I'll use skirt I which has more pleats and should have a narrower appearance. I may just use the pockets on another skirt pattern. The back does not have any pleats and appears more proportional to me.

I needed a pair of functional shorts that I wear to play, tumble, and climb trees. I made Burda 07/09/113. Although they don't fit as well as I would like, they work. I need to take in the waist another inch (Wow! I love the results of that Firm Body Tape). Next time, I'll take in the side seams a little. The pattern was drafted for cuffs which I eliminated. The shorts would appear better if they were more fitted overall. I won't do that. To me, they are an example where function is more important than style. After all, no one is going to notice how I look (other than acting silly) when I'm rolling around on the floor or racing somewhere. The length of the shorts is my 2/5 skirt measurement (15.5). It works for me for shorts. I think that the top length works for shorts as well as skirts

On another note, I've been reading "The Passage" by Justin Cronin. That has cut into my sewing time because it's a hard book to put down. It's a long book but worth reading. I still have another 200+ pages to go. The reviews say that it will keep you up at night. I read until I'm blurry eyed. Now, I need to get back to sewing. I want to finish a top that I'm making so that I can start on the summer dresses. If I don't get going, it will time for Fall sewing!

Fun Skirt

2010-06-28T16:49:00.001-07:00

When I wear this S2655 skirt (view B), I feel like twirling around like a little girl. I'm much too old for that, but I do it anyway. I'm all for anything that causes me to feel young!

The pockets took some time to make. Otherwise, it is a simple cotton gored skirt with a flounce.

I considered making the skirt without the pockets. Then, I went back and added them. Although the pockets do not show very well in this print fabric, the added detail makes a positive difference. If you look closely, you can see the tie hanging down from the pocket.

The most difficult part was matching the fabric at the seams. Honestly, I think that it would take about 10 yards of fabric to match the pattern exactly. I'm not going there for a simple skirt. Finally, I just matched the line of the flowers. It's okay for me since the pattern is so busy anyway.

The English Garden Dress

2010-06-23T15:24:00.000-07:00

This B5488 dress was finished over a week ago. My biggest problem was getting a photo. Despite our crazy Florida weather, I was determined to "model" it outside in the garden. When there was sunshine, the heat (index 109F) and huminity was so high that my camera screen fogged. Late in the day, there was lightning and/or rain. The possible days were windy. I thought that I had chosen a perfect day. Then, the wind decided to appear at an inappropriate time (for me). The dress tends to ballon with the wind. Maybe, I need to rename this the "billowing dress". Please keep this in mind. I look heavier in picture than I am (ugh!!) and the hem really is even. If you look closely, there is a flower stalk in the lower left corner of the picture. I managed to cut off the other flowers. The butterfly even flew away from the camera! That's enough whining!

Here's a picture on Dolly, without the wind. I think it shows the actual fit of the dress better.

This dress is super easy to sew. It only took an afternoon even with a couple of problems that I experienced.The pleats might cause a bit of a challenge for new sewers, but they are clearly marked on the pattern pieces. I did have a problem with the yoke in this fabric. I changed (means ripped out) the yoke in the same fabric. It didn't look right, looked sloppy, and reminded me of a mumu (a real danger with this pattern if anyone is not into mumus). I was able to find a matching fabric in my stash. Note: A large fabric stash can help with emergencies. Once the yoke was sewed, it looked so lonely that I added a band to the sleeves. BTW, I added about 3 inches to the sleeves. The yoke and band looked just added on (which they were). So, I added topstitching in the darker blue. That helped a lot. The picture of the yoke is blurry but it does show the topstitching. The picture of the sleeve band is clearer.

In the muslin, I made my usual size 12 for the top and tapered out to size 14 for the hips. This pattern has A LOT of ease. I ended up making a straight size 12 for the final dress. The extra ease made a great nightgown!

During the month of May, I actually made 2 nightgowns. Despite the ugly fabric of this one, I love both of them. There will not be any more oversized t-shirts at night!

I do like this dress although I won't say I love it. I won't make it again although I may shorten it and make a top. It's just so hot that I like a looser fitting top in the summer. As for dresses, I definitely will go for more fitted in the future.

I've finished a skirt that I love. This post is long enough for now so I'll post about it later this week.

The English Garden Dress

2010-06-09T11:49:00.000-07:00

I love delfiniums. Aren't they pretty? I don't remember seeing these flowers when I was in England, but they look like they belong in an English Garden. Certainly, they typically don't grow in Florida. We grew these from seeds. I guess they adjusted to our crazy weather. We even have some more coming. I hope they make it before the Florida sun scares them away.
This is the fabric that I first saw on Shannon's blog:

When I saw it, I went to the Fabric Mart Site as fast as my fingers could type. It reminded me of the delfiniums. They still had some of the fabric left. (Of course, several other fabrics jumped in my cart to keep it company on the ride to my house.) For some reason, I can't seem to get Fabric Mart e-mails despite multiple requests. I seem to do all right, though, with blog reading and fabric browsing!

I spent a lot of time deciding what pattern to use for this fabric and looked at numerous dress patterns. Finally, I narrowed it down to two. My English Garden Fabric decided it wanted this one (B5488):

Maybe, it was the dress on the model who was wearing a similar fabric. Another fabric started screaming that it wanted to be the other dress pattern. Yes, my fabric makes a lot of noise. Usually, I'm wise to listen to the fabric. I'm not so sure this time. The pattern is an easy one that should have gone together quickly. There weren't any major sewing problems. I'm just not sure that I like it so I kept dragging my feet on finishing it. Finally, I hemmed it today. It's on my ironing board ready for the final press. I'll take pictures when the iron finishes (It's slow sometimes.). Then, I'll decide what to do about it. I definitely love this fabric and really want a dress that I love, too. There may be a remake in my future. It's NOT going in the trash.

The Experimental Shorts

2010-06-06T13:13:00.000-07:00

I finished M5393 (OOP) shorts last weekend. I didn't have enough fabric to do the large lower pockets. I doubt that they would have looked very good on me anyway, but they would have been functional. While I'm proud of myself for hanging in there until the finish, I was too tired of the shorts to do a blog post. They took a while because I tried several different techniques. One worked well and the rest will be exchanged for my TNT way of doing things.

I wasn't looking for a fitted look because the shorts are for playing at the park with the grandchildren and similar activities. I started with a size 14 (my usual) and cut them down to a size 12. The view from the back shows that they are still a tad too big, but still very wearable. IF I decide to make them again, I'll go to size 10. Wow! Could I have lost 2 sizes? Honestly, I don't think so. These shorts are just exceptionally roomy. Definitely, this "too big" problem is a new one for me. One of my experiments was to try a casing and drawstring waist. Take a look. This will be the last time you'll see a waist like this from me. I generally wear my shirts out rather than tucked in my shorts. The look isn't very good IMHO for this short body. I don't have much of a waist so I think that I look heavier than I am. I'm aiming for the opposite effect: skinnier than I really am (Ah! The dreams of a sewer!) Also, my shirts tend to pull out and look sloppy.

The pattern calls for the use of twill tape through the casting. To me, that looked messy and very home-made. That meant a trip to Jo's to see if I could find something that looked any better. Actually, there was a great sale so I added about $50 of patterns and fabric to my $1.50 cord. Naturally, I left with a big smile! This is the cording that I used. It doesn't look much better in the picture, but believe me, it makes a big difference!

I usually use Sandra Betzina's method for a fly zipper. It works well for me and looks just fine. This time I decided to follow the pattern instructions. BIG mistake!! It took a while because it was new. Also, I kept thinking that the instructions were backward. Hmmm...should have known. I ended up with the topstitching on my right side rather than the left. I guess they meant the "other right" because the instructions clearly said the right side (I did reread them). Also, the zipper wasn't as neat. It could just be me but I'm won't be trying any new fly zipper methods for a while.

Now, I'm finally getting to the reason that I made this pattern in the first place. There is a slanted side pocket. That's about the only thing about the pattern that is right for my body type and it's the only new technique that turned out well for me. At least, I have one technique that I can apply to future sewing. I think that that style pocket works well for me. Thanks to Beangirl I no longer have a gap with this pocket style. She extended the pocket and the pocket lining to the center seam which becomes interfacing for the fly facing. Here's the easy pattern adjustment:

I love how flat the pocket is.

That's all the "experimenting" that I did. Now, I'm back to my know-how-sewing before trying some more experiments. I do believe in trying new things. Sometimes, they work and are great to add to my bag of tricks.

As an aside, I do have a collection of hats that help with the Florida sun. It's not as big as my fabric, pattern, and shoe collections, but it's growing. This purple hat was $2 at Claire's. Shhhh...don't tell anyone that I bought it at a tween shop. It pays to have a small head sometimes.

Hope everyone is having a wonderful weekend!

Absolute Luxury

2010-05-26T10:28:00.000-07:00

The SelfishSeamstress would be proud. I made something expensive just for me: a silk nightgown. Of course, DH has cuddling rights but actually it's just down right self indulgent.

I made this Burda 12/2008 #114 nightgown as a dress last year. At the time, I thought that I might want to make it as a nightie. Still, this silk fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics was not purchased for nightgown purposes. Actually, I bought it on a whim to make this Burda pajama set:
I thought this Burda 11/2009 #134 camisole and panties were so cute. I still do. I spent a good bit of time searching for the right lace, bought numerous samples, and never could find the "right" lace. The main problem is that I don't wear baby doll pajamas. Get REAL! I would only admire them from a distance. I haven't worn anything like this to bed since I was 3 years old, if then. I don't remember. Whenever I go looking for a fabric in my stash, I fondle this gorgeous fabric. I just never could think of anything realistic to make from it. This weekend I was playing with my stash because I was bored of working on the M5393 shorts. I was feeling self indulgent and the nightgown was the result. There is still fabric left that may show up as a top one of these days.

Now, back to shorts that I am determined to finish this week without getting into anymore stash mischief.

More Playing

2010-05-15T07:58:00.000-07:00

I spent Mother's Day at Hollywood Studios with DS2's family. Naturally, I had to make a new outfit to wear. What a great day!! Summer has arrived in Florida so it was plenty hot. I was a bit rumbled by the time we got around to taking pictures. Actually, it's a good test for the wearability (Is that a word?) of outfits.

The pants are Burda 03/09 #117 made with a cotton stretch twill. The top is Vogue 4076 made from cotton jersey. The entire outfit was comfy and great to wear for an active, sunny day. I especially like the top. It was cool and survived the day without a winkle. The pants showed signs of the day. I'm still debating whether I will make them again. There is a side invisible zipper. I started to put it in the back and wish now that I had. Since I've lost 3.5 pounds, the pants are now too big. Wow! I was surprised that little bit could make a difference. I have been working out a lot more so maybe that's the reason. At any rate, I would like to take in the side seams a bit, but I refuse to fiddle with that zipper. The back bag some under the seat. That is a pattern alterative I'm afraid. I'll save the picture in case I decide to work on the pattern in the future. One thing I did learn. I definitely miss pockets for my "play day" garments.

Right now, I'm working on M5393 shorts. They'll fit better I'm sure (lol) and they have pockets.

Have a great sewing weekend!!

Exploring the UFO's

2010-04-24T15:24:00.000-07:00

Like a lot of sewing beginners, I would often work on a project, get frustrated with it, shove it in a bag, and put in on a shelf. I have several of these projects that have sat aging for a few years. Most of them do fall in the category of "experience" and belong in the wadder bin. There are others that are worth some attention. Last weekend we left for a week at the beach. Before we left, I straightened my rather messy sewing room. I looked at that UFO shelf for some reason unknown to me. I think a couple of those old projects were screaming to me. The first is this blouse.

It's at least two years old. I bought the fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics and love it. Originally, it was the HP Deco Vibe Dress which looked awful on me. It could have been the sewing, but it certainly didn't work for whatever reason. I spent a lot of time cutting the fabric into a blouse. I had to add a back seam to have enough fabric. I must have gotten frustrated with that process and put it away. It was an easy project to finish and perfect to wear with white shorts for vacation. At this point, I have no idea what pattern that I used.

I've been looking for a fabric to wear with the blue twill I bought for this summer. It's sort of a dusty blue and doesn't match any of the many blues that I have in my stash. Well, I now have the top to wear with it and it is finished! That's the fabric under the top in the picture. I guess it was this blue top that was screaming from the shelf.

I'll be sewing my orange capris tomorrow. If the pattern works, there will be a blue pair immediately following!

We had a wonderful, relaxing week at the beach. The water was still too cold for swimming, but the weather was perfect for walks on the beach. The unpacking is done and the laundry is finished. Saturday night is movie/TV night if we don't go out. Tomorrow is a long walk if it isn't raining and, then, off to the sewing room.

Smokin' Play Clothes

2010-04-16T09:43:00.001-07:00

My priority in sewing right now is making play clothes: the kind of garments that I like to wear hanging out with family & friends, going to Disney, playing minature golf, etc. This outfit certainly suits that purpose. Although I didn't follow all the "rules" for dressing a vase or lollipop, I love the outfit.

The top is another HP Sunshine Top made from a cotton interlock. I raised the pattern neckline 1 inch and like it a lot better. I don't have a strap problem now, but the girls do make an appearance if I lean over too far. That means that I'll raise the neckline a tad more the next time I make it. Since I'm "supposed" to wear more fitted clothes, I did make a tie belt. I like the look and comfort is not sacrificed at all. With the days getting warmer, I'm not about to wear really fitted clothes in the near future.

The pants are HP Marrakesh Drawstring Pants made from a wonderful cocoa colored linen. I did press the fabric before washing and there is not a major winkling problem. I purchased the fabric from the now-closed Timmel Fabrics so it is a good quality linen. These pants are described, by HP, as "so hot they're smokin'...". I agree although I did make some design changes. The drawstring had to go. If I add anything to my waist, it will be from chocolate, not fabric. I made the waistband flat in the front, but did add elastic to the back to stop a little gaping. According to Trinny & Susannah in "The Body Shape Bible", my vase shape looks better with angled pockets. I decided to do that and sew the pockets on the outside rather than do the pattern's side pockets. I do agree that they look better but I never tuck in my tops. The pockets don't show....dud! I prefer to eliminate pockets on dress pants but like them with my play clothes. Next time (There will be many more next times!) I'll make the pockets as instructed in the pattern.

These pants are a bit big right now, but not enough for me to take them in. Since I made the muslin, I've lost a little under 2 pounds (not a lot). I believe the difference is my regular workouts. Thanks to my Firm Toning Workout tape, I've lost an inch in my waist. Those workouts are beginning to show some results!!

Next up is a pair of capris in an orange fabric that matches the top.

Some Easy Sewing

2010-04-08T15:17:00.000-07:00

During March, I did some easy sewing while working on tax returns. I was amazed at what I accomplished with only short periods of sewing! This post is my Winter/Fall Finale. Yes, I realize that the middle of April is approaching. Tax season is winding down for me. If there are no last minute crises, I'm done. Also, I finished all of the cold weather sewing projects that were cut. That's a first for me!

The first two pictures are dedicated to two sewing professionals who are fighting cancer. Both of these amazing women have made a huge impact on my sewing.

The skirt is M3830. It's a simple skirt that is great for working on fit. Shannon Gifford worked with me for over a month in her skirt muslin class. I lost count of the number of muslins that I did. I was almost ready to say that my figure isn't suited for a pencil skirt. With her encouragement, I changed my mind. I love the fit, comfort, and look of this skirt. I now have a sloper to use with future skirt, pants, and dresses. I've taken numerous classes from this amazing woman who has made such a positive impact on my sewing. I'm sending strong vibes for her recovery.

The top is my TNT KS3338 without sleeves. I had to do a lot of easing to stop the armholes from gaping. I like the result, but may reduce the size of the armscye next time. Then again, I may not.

This top is another TNT t-shirt. Normally, I wouldn't show a picture of such a simple, easy top. The thing that makes this top amazing to me is the fabric. I purchased it from Ann at GorgeousFabric. Ann is going through 12 weeks of cancer treatment, but still is an active blogger and busy selling her truly gorgeous fabric. I so appreciate having a source for such nice fabric at a reasonable price. Lisa is sewing a garment a week for the 12 weeks to show support for Ann. I'm not able to join her in this project, but I can send wishes for a strong recovery.

This top is B4347 that I've sewed before. This time I made it in Vera Wang polyester knit from Fabric.com. This pattern will go into my TNT drawer. I like it.

The sweater is Burda Style Karen Cardigan and is my big disappointment for the month. I purposefully made the picture small, but you can see the problems. The fabric is a sweater knit from EOS. It sewed well and the drape is fantastic. The problems are (1) The reverse side shows on the front and makes it look unfinished. I did an impressive job of serging the curved edges, too. *sigh* (2) The style doesn't suit my body and makes me look heavier. I don't need that! Compare this picture to one at the beginning of the post. In the earlier picture, I'm almost dressed correctly for my vase shaped body. Trinny & Susannah recommend pencil skirts and scoop neck tops/dresses that are fitted under the girls. While the top is not exactly fitted, it's not overly loose either. I'm not sure what the fate of this cardigan will be. I may line it or it may be cut into another garment. I do love the fabric.

In other March activities, this picture shows that Spring has arrived in Central Florida. The little pots are peppers and tomatoes that are ready to be planted in the garden. The front garden is weeded and mulched. My manicure is ruined, but the yard is looking a lot better. This winter was the coldest one in the recorded DeLand, Florida history. I could have told them that!

I need to hem a pair of pants to complete my first "Dressing a Lollipop Vase" project. I'll have more on that soon.

How to Dress a Lollipop Vase

2010-03-22T13:54:00.000-07:00

Actually, the title of this post is a question that I'm asking myself. Belinda mentioned a book by Trinny & Susannah, TheBodyShapeBible. I was intrigued by the book because she said that various shapes are described rather than only the typical pear, triangle, square, and hour glass.

Naturally, there was not an exact description of my body. I am closest to a vase and have aspects of the lollipop. I've read a lot of books about what you should wear for your body. Too often, I fix one problem and create two problems. The "aha" that I had reading the book was related to fit. Too many times, I think that I have a fit problem when I have more of a style problem. The vase is described as having "big tits, gently curving longer waist, hips equal tits, slim thighs and legs". I fit that description except that my waist is average and too close to the girls. The lollipop is described as "big tits, slight waist, slim hips, long legs". I'm half a lollipop. My waist is anything but "slight" and my hips are fine but definitely not "slim". I guess that I am a Lollipop Vase. Gee, that does "wonders" for my self image.

My plan is to use the relevant aspects of both body shapes when I plan my Spring wardrobe. We'll see how it goes after I finish tax returns, finish a cardigan in process, and check out a top muslin.

Frantic February: Finish or Find New Home

2010-03-03T10:36:00.000-08:00

I know that I said that I wasn't going to monthly reviews, but I just can't help myself. The end of a month and the beginning of a new one is a time to reflect and plan. February was hectic to say the least. I do tax returns and the month began without a computer able to download the tax program. Because my son was going to get and set up it, I started the process before Christmas. Really, I paid for his computer engineering degree and he was happy to help. Of course, he was busy and thinking that tax returns weren't due until April 15. Yea, sure. I seldom nag but I became a major nagging mom. That story ended well. He did an excellent job of buying, putting together, and installing my wonderful high speed, lots of memory computer. Of course, that process meant dragging out computer programs and related stuff. My sewing room also functions as a home office during the season so getting it organized was a must. What a mess!! My sewing gear does have a home that it doesn't see very often, sad to say. I got everything put in proper places. I even sorted the Burda patterns I have traced and neatly put them in envelopes. Wow! I impress myself. It will stay neat for the next couple of months. After that, I hope that I can remember how nice a neat sewing room really is.

Despite the time I spent catching up on returns, I managed to get some sewing done. Apparently, I do better when I'm really busy. (That's another one of those things I must remember!) I actually competed three garments, using 6 yards of fabric. I love all of them. I've posted already about the Jalie 2919 Cardigan and the KS 3740 Cowl Top. I did decide I liked the collar and kept it "creative turned around". Thanks you everyone who gave me feedback. The third garment was the Jalie 2788 Twist Top.

It was made from a polyester/lycra knit that I bought from Fabric.com. It went together easily and the fit is great, IMHO. I didn't make any fitting adjustments other than cutting the side seams one size larger, as usual. I love the tie and scooped back.I did not include a modesty panel and something is definitely needed before I wear it out of the house. I have a brown tank on the sewing table. It should be quick to make and will go well with the Jalie Cardigan. That should help with the snug fit of that cardigan.

In line with the finish-up theme of February, I made a comment on a blog stating that quilting makes me gruppy. Okay - If that's the case I need to find a new home for the quilt blocks that I have stored for years. I pulled out a set of blocks from the back of my embarrassing UFO shelf. A lot of hours went into making them. Plus, they were planned for a blank wall in my sewing room. Sooo.. I cut out sashing and border strips, laid out the quilt, and started sewing. After all, I need to finish them or give them away. I didn't get gruppy at all. In fact, I had most of it put together before I realized that I needed to get back to tax work. Here's the top half:

The bottom half needs two more pieces of sashing and it will be done.

I was amazed at the amount of details that I did. Naturally, I started thinking about the desire to add more of similar details to garments. My quilting projects are limited to "finish up" for the immediate future. Now that I don't have to spend as much time on fitting and basic sewing techniques, I 'm excited about the possibilities for garments. The applique and handwork don't show very well in the photos. I'm particularly excited about the hand silk ribbon embroidery that I did on the house block. I also need to apply my quilt planning and thinking about the end result to my wardrobe. I started thinking about my own personal style as a number of bloggers are doing now. Well, my style hit me: It's classic crazy with romantic touches. That's what I saw in the quilt and what, hopefully, will show more in my garment making. Of course, I don't want "wierd" and have to keep age appropriateness and my petite size in mind. I have some ideas which will be fun to do. I also have more direction in clearing out the UFO shelf and my closet!

It's time to get back to reducing taxes (legally, of course) and work on that brown tank - basics still have to be in classic crazy wardrobe.

Orange Ruffles

2010-02-17T13:35:00.000-08:00

I covet the M5522 blouse that Karen is making. She's using a stunning orange plaid that I love. Unfortunately, my body (and my overall appearance) doesn't think much of bright plaids or most plaids on my top part. I've had this pattern, one of the Pattern Review Top 10, for a while now and never got around to making it. After the inspiration from Karen, I have the fabric chosen. I also found buttons that I really like with it. They pick up the orange and the shades of red in the fabric. It's on the sewing list and will be a blouse soon. I'm planning to do View C with the ruffles. I love ruffles but have to be careful because I'm only 5' tall. I think this fabric will work. The ruffles can be eliminated if they look like I'm playing "little girl".

I got my new computer yesterday. I'm quickly developing a love affair with it. So far, everything is working like a dream and soooo fast. This post is a test. I've been using Kodak Easy Share, but want to start using Photoshop Elements. I decided not to load both programs and just learn how to use Photoshop. That seems to be working fine with the simple things that I did before. I can expand my knowledge base gradually now. I'd like to do more with my blog photography. That is, I'd like to work on it between sewing projects. Right now, I need to get my e-mail working and do some sewing!

Mistake or Creativity?

2010-02-16T11:37:00.001-08:00

When I saw this KS3740 pattern and this 4-way stretch cotton knit, I knew that I had to make the bodice on the cross grain and the collar on the grain as stated in the pattern. Also, I knew that I had to put the under collar on top. Sure I did. Ha! Ha! When I started pressing the collar and realized that I sewed (serged, of course) it on upside down, I screamed a loud "funacala".

I had the seam ripper in my hand when I looked at it again. I kinda like the way the fabric looks rolled to wrong, now my right, side of the collar. It would not look very good in most fabrics, but it looks almost like a trim in this stripe. What do you think?

I especially like the way the back looks.

I may just leave it the way it is. I was pleased that I used the stripe vertically rather than horizonally. I don't need any added width!

Note: The word "funacala" is one I created when I was doing tax returns with the client sitting next to me. I'd get frustrated with the simple things people do that result in higher taxes for them. Sometimes the computer would do crazy things, too. Most people knew what I meant by the tone of my voice. I did have one woman ask me. Of course, I smiled and replied "not fun" instead of "what the...." The word has become a habit that Big Bertha, my sewing machine, knows well.

Stay warm!!

Jalie 2919: Simple with Details

2010-02-12T07:49:00.000-08:00

I now am a big fan of the new Jalie 2919 cardigan! This pattern was simple and quick to sew. I cut it out one night last week and sewed it the next afternoon. Yet, the pleat details make it appear more complex, IMHO. From the reviews on Pattern Review, I knew that it was snug so I made it up one size from what I usually do with Jalie patterns. It is still too snug across the shoulders and in the armscye. I plan to make the pattern again, but I will fix those two problems first. Also, I have very thin arms and the sleeves fit pretty tight and are still long although I shortened them 2" as I usually do. I'll just shorten the sleeves and keep the width. I could see where the sleeves could be a problem for anyone without toothpick arms. I used a very stretchy 4-way cotton polyester knit. I did cut off 1/2" from the lapels so that I could fit all my pattern pieces on the fabric. (I barely had enough scraps to test my serger stitch.) Next time I'll make it with the original lapel pattern. The fabric had more than enough stretch, according to the Jalie chart so this cardigan is just snug. I'm wearing it with a short sleeve RTW top. I really need to make a tank top to wear with this cardigan. That will help with a bit of the snugness. Overall, I still love this cardigan!

Now, there's a picture of the snug back.

The pleats are straight when the cardigan is on the sewing table. There's some pulling going on because of the tight shoulders. That doesn't bother me enough to try to fix it until next time. The cardigan looks a lot better when I'm not standing still and checking every detail. That's how we improve as sewers, right?

The pants are My Label made from polyester fabric. They were quick to make and are very comfortable. I know the fabric won't last long so I didn't put in the effort that I would with quality fabric. I need to use stash and the fabric is too nice for just a muslin. I'll enjoy wearing the cardigan. It's done and I'm moving on.

Gotta Have Some Sunshine

2010-02-10T14:40:00.000-08:00

It's been cold and dreary in Central Florida. I won't post pictures of all the brown plants/grass and dead pineapple plants (I almost cried after covering them so carefully!). If I did show publicly how awful our yard looks, the Florida Tourist Bureau Police would get me for sure. The pictures would not be as beautiful as the snow ones in the blogs from the Northeast. The snow is sooo lovely to just look at. Of course, I only look at pictures and don't have to shovel it, try to get around in it, or be housebound with 2 ft of the lovely white stuff outside my door. While the sunshine outside is rare these days, I did have some in my sewing room. I decided to make the Hot Patterns Weekender Sunshine Top.

I was expecting a challenge. In the past, I've had difficulty with the fit and the instructions with Hot Patterns. I had a pleasant surprise. Maybe the sewing goddess was just with me. I made this blouse in a size S in the shoulders/armholes and size M in the side seam. I didn't make any other adjustments and actually used one of my "why did I buy that" fabrics. I did a roll serger hem for the sleeves and bottom hem. I should have taken close-up pictures. They don't show well in these pictures and turned pretty well. I'll take pictures to include in my review on PR. (Yes, I will get to that soon.) I actually like the blouse and have worn it out already. I may get to work on some of my Hot Patterns stash before long. I love the styles but have been leary of potential problems. Here's a back view of the Sunshine Top:

The brown twill pullon pants are a Vogue UFO from a couple of years ago. I don't remember the pattern number and doubt that I'll make them again. I like the fit of My Label pullon pants better. Actually, I like the comfort and fit of the LH Hepburn pants even better. It's worth taking a little extra effort to put in a fly front. After working on that panne velvet dress, I wanted to sew something really simple. I made a pair of ML pants in a camel/brown color. I like the pants but they didn't go well at all with this top. I remembered those brown pants sitting on my embarrassing UFO shelf and out they came. I think that I will get a lot of wear from both pair of pants.

The first three weeks of January were great for sewing. I made a total of 5 garments before life got crazy the end of the month: the DNKY Simplicity tank, the Burda panne velvet dress, the sunshine top, and 2 pullon pants. The fabric used total was 9 yards. For the first time in the history of my sewing, I actually used more fabric than I bought. I wasn't planning to buy any, but went to Jo's for the Vogue pattern sale. I walked out with a few patterns and 6 yards of fabric. What's a girl going to do when the fabric is screaming "buy me". I seldom find that much that I like at JoAnn's and everything was on sale. Actually, I have 3 projects that I started and lost interest in finishing during January. If I count that yardage, I can add 6 yards for 15 total . I'm planning to finish those gems this month: a BurdaStyle Karen cardigan, a TNT tee, and a pencil skirt. I WILL NOT add to that UFO shelf and these projects are bugging me.

So far this month I've finished the Jalie cardigan which I love. I'm about an hour away from finishing the KS Cowl top. I'll post about them soon.

The Bad Boy Dress is Ready to Go

2010-01-23T15:53:00.000-08:00

This Burda 08/09 #113 was made from a panne velvet fabric that acted like a bad boy the entire time that I was sewing. I even used a roller foot. The foot helped but the fabric was still a challenge. When I wasn't fighting the fabric, I was fighting the confusing Burda instructions. In the middle of this "exciting" experience, some thread got caught in the bobbin case. Big Bertha (my Bernina) simply refused to move along the fabric. Naturally, I thought it was the fabric, the needle or the tension. I nearly panicked. I finally tried to sew on some cotton and, of course, it didn't sew any better. I even rethreaded and didn't notice the caught thread. I didn't see it until I tried different thread as a last ditch effort before taking it to the dealer. Of course, my machine is due for her annual check-up, but not in the middle of making a dress! When I saw the problem I felt so STUPID. There were so many times that this dress almost went into the waste bin. Now that the pain and suffering has subsided I do like the dress and plan to wear it to a concert next week. After looking at the picture, I don't like the tights and shoes with it. I look too much like an old maid school m'am. (Note: I'm referring to the dowdy look. I know a number of single school teachers who look quite chic.) The major difficulty that I had with the Burda instructions were the direction for attaching the facing. I did read Dawn's blog where she just eliminated them and added stretch elastic for support. I planned to do that until I started working with the bad boy panne velvet. It just didn't hang smoothly and got bunchy and ucky looking. Sooo I went back to studying the directions for facings and, finally figured them out. At least, I think I did and was able to attach the facings. Here is the bodice before the facings are attached. There is a lining piece that is sewed right sides together to the front section and turned inside out before attaching the side fronts. I used a stretchy knit fabric that did work well. The center front section is gathered.

Here the facings are attached to the back, sleeve, and side front in the standard manner,
I sewed a piece of seam binding to the front edge to control those gathers. I would have preferred to use stretch lace but only had red and bright blue colors (ugh for this dress). I then folded the front edge level with the facings and hand stitched to the lining.

After attaching the bodice and skirt, I started to sew the casting for the elastic at the waist. Fortunately, I did a "try-on". Sewing the elastic where Burda said created a muffin top and made me look like someone from Alice in Wonderland (can't remember the character's name). Anyway, it looked ridiculous. I did remember Carolyn's wise words: just because the pattern says to do it one way doesn't mean you can't do it differently. I put the casting and elastic below the waist and on the skirt rather than the top. Yep! It's done and ready to go. The blood (from pin pricks), sweat, and tears didn't even stain it!

Since I finished this dress, I made a pair of pullon pants and the HP Sunshine top that I'll post about when I get pictures. Today I traced the pattern for a pair of shorts. It was 80 degrees and I was ready to wear them. I certainly was not in the mood to sew the wool skirt that is cut out and ready to sew. Who knows - We could have temperatures in the 30s next week! Meanwhile, I'm dreaming of Spring and Summer and all the great new patterns out there. My February Burda even came today with several tempting garments crying to be made.

On the Wild Side

2010-01-03T16:02:00.000-08:00

My first project of the new year is a finish-up: the S2603 DNKY cozy tank. That finishes my Heidi Klum sort-of knock off. I love it! I really like the way that the two fabrics go together although it is a bit wild for my normal wardrobe. Also, it's comfy which is always a plus for me. Here's the tank alone:

I'm sure that I'll make this tank many times. Finally, my tenacity paid off. I got a knit with a band to fit. I can use the band on my TNT t-shirt or add sleeves to this tank. Yea! There is lots of fun ahead as I play with my stash and USE it!

My original plan was to photograph this outfit next to the "jungle" in the lot next door. Of course, the two cute little deer who live there were expected to make an appearance for the photo shot. It's just too dern cold. Remember, everything is relative and we Floridians shake when the temperature is in the 30s. I believe that my photographer's hands would shake too much for a decent photo. In fact, my sewing was interrupted yesterday afternoon when hubbie announced that there were frost warnings. We picked oranges, peppers, snow peas, and sugar snaps. Then, we spent another 2-3 hours covering the herb garden, the vegetable garden, the roses, and the water pipes with frost cloth. We have frost warnings for the next two nights. Brrrrr!

I have to do some bragging. My daughter, Blakely, stopped to visit on her way to a 12 hour bike race in South Florida. She won 3rd place and $100. Way to go, girl! Here's a picture of her as she was leaving us. Yes, she is wearing shorts. You'd think that she was from PA. She did say that the Floridians in the race were wearing layers of clothes. She was warm and toasty in her shorts!

The Results are In

2010-01-02T06:22:00.000-08:00

I've been pondering my 2009 accomplishments (or lack of) for the past couple of days after tallying up the results. The year 2009 was okay for me with lots of ups and downs. There were few big "ups" and lots of non-serious "downs". I even thought about the value of doing goals which are only met partially. I decided there is value is reviewing at least once a year and deciding the direction for the new year. It's kinda like a pattern guide sheet. They are written to be used but followed only if it makes sense at the time. So, on with the results:

1. Each season I will make at least 4 co-ordinated garments from my current stash. For Winter, I will finish the 11 garment SWAP (in process) by March 31. I figure the best way to handle my fabric buying addiction is to work on projects from my stash.

I finished 9 of the 11 garment winter SWAP, 3 for Spring (with buttonholes remaining on the 4th), all 4 for Summer, and never even thought about a wardrobe for Fall. While the wardrobe planning does help, I do get bored about the 3rd or 4th garment and move on to other things. I think that I need to focus more on outfits. Maybe I could handle one wardrobe doing the year. I pulled out some beautiful fabric for this year's SWAP. While the colors co-ordinated, the type of fabric did not work together for a plan. I finally decided that I really didn't want to do it. The major purpose of this goal was to reduce stash which did not work at all. Fabric seems to talk to me with screams of "take me home", "the colors are perfect", "I will go with.....", etc. etc. I love my fabric stash but it simply cannot grow in 2010. The only person that I know who is concerned with stash build-up and actually conquered it in 2009 is Shannon. Maybe I will try her approach to earning dollars by excercise. At least, I would keep track of dollars spent which will scream "don't" and may be louder than the fabric.

2. I will check that have enough run-around clothes (go to the store, soccer games, etc.) and fill in the gaps with mostly easy-to-sew garments.

This goal was almost accomplished as a lot of what I made fit into this category. I still need to sew a few more of this type of garment - a couple of pullon pants and a few t-shirts would complete it. Maybe I need to follow Gwen's "stack and whack" approach or is it "whack and stack"? Whatever....I'll cut out the pants and t-shirts so they'll be ready to sew when I need a break from more challenging projects. (There's not going to be any new patterns that look simple for my easy-sewing time.)

3. In the beginning of the year, I will focus on polishing basic skills and progress with new techniques. By the end of the year, I will make at least one tailored jacket and/or coat. I really want to make a coat and won't feel like a real seamstress until I do.

I worked on this goal all year but didn't get as far as the tailored jacket and/or coat. I plan on that happening in 2010.

4. I will play Tim Gunn: clean out my clothes and make some basic black and white garments.

Tim Gunn has the right idea (I think). I did clear out some of my clothes closet but didn't finish it. There weren't any black and white garments made. I do have the fabric and patterns :). This goal will carry over to 2010.

5. I will improve my computer skills. At a minimum, I'll figure out what is going on with my Sewing Reviews and complete a storyboard.

I did figure out the problems with the Sewing Reviews but haven't done them regularly. That will change in 2010. I appreciate the reviews others do and want to give back as much as I can. The storyboard was not done, but I did figure out the problem. I have a 5-year old, very faithful computer but it's too old to handle the new programs that I have. It could be updated with more RAM and a new graphic card, but the cost is high and the fix temporary. I'm having a new computer built and will tackle all the re-installing programs "joys" in the near future.

Overall, I completed 30 garments which is 6 more than 2008 and more than I thought I'd done. I had a couple of months where I was a sewing maniac (wonderful times!!). I used 56 yards of fabric and bought a lot more than that. The breakdown is:

17 Tops
7 Pants
3 Skirts
2 Cardigans
1 Dress

The goals for 2010:

1. Earn purchases for my hobby by excercising ($10 for every hour). This includes all purchases -fabric, patterns, notions, and accessories.

2. Make a vintage dress.

3. Make 6 jackets and/or coats (includes cardigans) using tailoring techniques on at least one.

4. Finish organizing my clothes in the Tim Gunn fashion.

5. Learn to knit and complete at least one something.

6. Enter one Pattern Review Contest.

Now that the goal "guides" are listed and the wonderful holiday festivities are over, I'm ready to get to work on a , hopefully, very productive new year. Hugs and kisses to everyone who has left a comment on my blog. Those comments mean soooo much.

Happy New Year!!!!

It's Not Easy Being Green

2009-12-28T12:41:00.000-08:00

This green top just couldn't get itself together properly. First, the KS3617 pattern does not fit around the neck and the sleeves. At least, it doesn't fit the way that I want it to fit. The neckline needs to be higher and closer to my neck and the armscycle is too big for my skinny arms. The fabric is 97% rayon and 3% lycra. I expected it to hang nicely (of course!) but it bubbles around the sleeves and the hem. They are shaped perfectly on my cutting board so I think that it's the pattern rather than the fabric, but maybe a bit of both. It couldn't possibly be the seamstress!! (lol) Here's what it looks like:

The back really shows the bubbling:

I won't be making this pattern again. Next time I get the urge to add a band to a t-shirt, I'll just draft it on my TNT t-shirt pattern. That would be a lot easier than trying to fix this pattern and much more likely to fit first time around.

I'll admit that part of the problem may be my few minutes of sewing here and there on this top. This December was exceptionally busy in a good way. I spent a lot of time with family and friends. My Chef Hubbie was cooking like a mad man which meant I had extended KP duty. Man, I'm not accustomed to keeping my house so clean, but that is part of the holidays for me. Along with spending family time, the high point of the month was the performance of Christmas music by Mannheim Steamroller. Finally this year, we went to visit Mount Dora to see the city's extraordinary lights and decorations. This is a small city about an hour's drive from us. It's just one of those things that we never got around to doing before.

I'm excited about my daughter's visit later this week. She decided to avoid traveling at Christmas and come later. She lives in PA so I'm not sure she could have made it through the weather. I can hardly wait to see her!! Then, next week it's back to sewing!

Jalie Jeans

2009-12-09T11:16:00.000-08:00

I finally decided to tackle the rivets for my Jalie jeans. I was sure that they would take a day or two to figure out. Well, it took me about 30 minutes to read the rivet tool instructions and attach the rivets. That was a nice surprise! The not-so-nice surprise was the jeans are too tight to wear comfortably. I know they have lycra and should stretch with wear. At the same time, I don't want to wear them in public yet. Of course, most of the teenage girls that I know would consider them perfect. I'm just a bit beyond that stage in my life. There definitely is a problem with making a snug jean muslin before Thanksgiving and expecting a comfortable fit after all the good food. I think that I'll add a tad to the seams before I make the next pair. I enjoyed making this pair so I know I'll make many more. Jeans are another addiction that I can add to my list! In the pictures of the full jeans it looks like I skipped stitches. I'm not sure what was going on with my picture-taking. I added a ticket pocket since the Jalie pattern didn't have one

I made the back pockets a little smaller than the pattern and like the results for me.

Tomorrow is a play day for me. I'm spending the day at my local Bernina Centre. Nancy Bednar from Bernina is doing a workshop on the My Label Fitting Software and couture techniques. It should be fun!

November Review: The Jeans Month

2009-12-01T15:51:00.000-08:00

I had a lot of fun this month with the Pattern Review "Build a Better Jean" course. I love my jeans and learned a a lot of great techniques that I'm sure will apply to other sewing. I used the Jalie jean pattern which is wonderful for my skinny legs. They fit pretty tight but there is lycra in the denim so they should stretch with wear. I'll just have to see. Otherwise, there will be some serious dieting before I wear them very often. That's just a manner of comfort as they fit great IMHO. I'll get pictures sometime this week. Before I started the course, I did finish the S2603 DNKY Cozy. That one was a fast and easy project.

Yep, you got it. I had another month of 2 garments completed. Actually, I still want to put rivets on the jeans, but they are finished and wearable. Does a ton of company count? I realized today that I felt good about sewing until I thought about writing this monthly review. I started feeling pretty bad about my dismal results. Frankly, I don't want to continue doing something that makes me feel bad. I'm not even thinking much about speed sewing for slow sewers. I'm thinking about new challenges and improving the quality of my sewing. Those two things certainly do not mean speedy sewing. I've decided not to continue doing the monthly reviews. After all, I'm not an advanced sewer (yet) who churns out a lot of projects. I like to watch the birds in the feeder, enjoy the sunset rising, give my kitty a good petting, etc., etc. I love sewing and blogging, but I've realized I don't enjoy the counting part of it.

So, I'll get those rivets on and make the tank that goes with the DNKY Cozy. Pictures are coming soon.

Wrapping Up Jeans

2009-11-21T10:37:00.000-08:00

My jeans are coming! The entire process was so much easier than I expected. Why did I wait so long? I guess I just needed the encouragement of Shannon's Gifford's course on Pattern Review. I wouldn't call jeans quick and easy, but I found that taking it step by step works well. The most time consuming part of the project was finding my embroidery equipment and remembering how to embroider on my machine. I used to embroider a lot, but haven't for about two years. It's like riding a bicycle. The process comes back even though it's been a while. I have a house full of company coming for Thanksgiving so there's been a lot to get ready. Mostly, I keep the house pretty orderly (closets don't count), but I don't do the "shine and polish" thing unless company is coming. Sometimes, I don't even do it then but, after all, the holidays are coming fast. Most the time, I'd much rather stay in my sewing room, look out the window, and sew. I'm still hoping to get these jeans done to wear on Thanksgiving. It may even happen pending the number of dailey mini crises that occur. Here are pictures of the jeans so far:

Before the class started, I finished The S2603 DKNY Cozy Knockoff. I saw Heidi Klum wearing a wrap blouse in a fabric similar to the one I used. That makes this a DKNY Cozy Klum Knockoff. I will make the tank in coordinating fabric to wear with it. I bought both fabrics last year, had lots of ideas of using it, but nothing that I got excited about. The only thing I don't like about the wrap is the blank wrong side of the fabric. It doesn't show if I wear it as shown in my picture, but all the other options for wearing the wrap look goofy. I will definitely make it again in the future with more reversible fabric.

You can see that the windows are cracked in my sewing room. It's finally cool enough to turn off the air conditioner and open windows. Yea! The temperature is a wonderful, sunny 75 degrees as I write this post.

I'm not sure now how this wrap will look with my jeans. We'll see. I do have my eye on a nice black and white knit in my stash. That will go well with the jeans and is screaming to be made. I have a RTW pair of black pants that will go great with the wrap - just have to finish the top. Meanwhile, I have some purple denim from Gorgeous Fabric in the washer right now. There will be another pair of jeans in the near future. First I gotta finish the black jeans. That may happen after Thanksgiving but it will happen soon!

October Review: Muslin Month

2009-11-09T13:44:00.000-08:00

Yikes! November is well underway. I think that it is about time to finish with October. I had another two garment month. I've already worn both tops numerous times though. I completed KS 3338 knit top (definitely a TNT). The other top was S2922. This one was planned as a wearable muslin for some nice fabric sewing in the future.

If I included muslins in my totals I would have had a very productive October. Actually, I did a lot of focused sewing. I made 4 versions of the pencil skirt muslin before I got one that fit well enough for me. Yippee!! I finally can make a pencil skirt!!! The strange thing is I love making skirts and can fit most styles with a bit of tweaking. Now I have a poster board sloper which makes pattern adjusting for any skirt go so much faster. Well, at least it was faster with the one skirt pattern I've used so far. (Actually, I'm trying not to think a lot about that skirt because I have several projects that I want to finish first. I'm actually showing a bit of discipline!) I made a muslin of the J Stern Tee which will be wearable with some finishing touches. I need purple thread to do topstitching and hemming. Of course, I thought I had some but apparently not. I'm pretty good at keeping thread organized. I must have 200 spools of thread but not a one that's purple! I also made a muslin of the Jalie Jeans. With the waist and hips fitted with the skirt sloper, I only had to do some minor tweaking for my skinny legs. I made the muslin with denim that was cheap because it had some flaws. Fortunately, I was able to cut around the flaws. I love it when that happens!!! The denim looks great and the muslin had large seam allowances. That muslin will be taken apart and made into a wearable pair of jeans in the near future. Let's see. Counting the muslins, I have 8 garments for the month. I have been working!

I have been thinking of things that help my turtle sewing pace pick up a bit. These are some things that I'm finding helpful for me. They may not be new or particularly helpful for everyone.

1. Using a clapper more often on seams, not just the bulky ones. In other words, I press less and clap more. It seems like garments are going together more easily.

2. Checking the fit as I go along. This is one of the things that takes time to save time. Even with a TNT pattern, the fabrics seem to fit a little differently. If I do something wrong, the sooner that I find the mistake, the less time it takes overall.

3. I sew at my most productive time which is early morning. I can seldom just sew all day (love it when I can!!!). I've been in the habit of doing the stuff I have to do first to get them out of the way (errands, laundry, dishes, basically any chore that is not sewing). I just have to force myself to stop sewing and do the adult responsible things.

4. When cutting, I need to remember to check the second layer of fabric to be sure that I clipped the notches. I had a tendancy to not cut the bottom layer and it's a pain to have to go back and check for notches later.

5. I now measure the geometric pieces like straight waistbands and belt loops and cut them with a ruler and rotary cutter. (tip from Shannon Gifford). Burda usually does this anyway in their patterns. For some unknown reason, the big 4 even give a pattern for elastic rather than giving measurements. I don't know why I never thought about this big time saver.

Well, I'm off the audition pocket sizes for my jeans! They are beginning to look like actual jeans. I can hardly wait to finish them.

S2922 Tunic

2009-10-29T09:20:00.000-07:00

It's time for an update. I finished the S2922 tunic a while ago and wanted to take pictures of me wearing it. The fit is better on me than on Dolly (Her arms are too fat so I have to put her on a diet before long.) Anyway, I think the top turned out pretty well for a wearable muslin. I definitely will make it again in good fabric. The pattern is an "inspired by project runway" one and has lots of options for different tops and dresses. I think that pattern purchase will get lots of use!

I made the front and sleeves straight from the pattern. Well, almost straight from the pattern. I did use one size smaller for the neck, shoulders, armscye and sleeves. I tapered the side seams to the hip line which fits my straight body and still gives it some shape. I can pretend, right?

In the back, I eliminated the gathering and adjusted the yoke to fit. The gathering made me look more like a hunchback than I am. The fit is wearable but I will check the back with photos of me in the blouse. It may need a bit of tweaking.

Most of the month I have been working on a pencil skirt muslin with multiple tries. DH was starting to get irritated taking the photos. I usually am reasonably patient about pictures, but I wanted those photos right away so I could post them on the class board. Now I am started to think seriously about going the timer and tripod route. That means a new camera and, naturally, I want a good one. Hey, Christmas is coming! Maybe DH will be tired enough of the "Mr Deville, I'm ready for the closeup".

While waiting for the skirt feedback, I've been working on a hopefully wearable muslin for the J Stern Tee. I like the style a lot but would never wear it as tight as she does. I've just about got it (I think). The skirt muslin is done but still needs marking, sewing up the areas that are pinned, and a final check fitting. Of course, the jeans class starts Monday. I need to do a jeans muslin in the next few days. Jeans are too much work to have something I can't wear because of the fit. Naturally, there are a number of garments in the November Burda that I'm itching to make. Oh my, there's so much to do and so little time.

Is it just a t-shirt?

2009-10-25T10:42:00.000-07:00

Well, yes it is just my TNT t-shirt which usually would not be much of a post. This poly lycra jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics makes it a special one. I just love it!! The fabric is so wild that I wasn't sure about it but I am now.

I have finished the yellow and blue blouse - just have to take pictures and will do a post. About the only other thing that I have done is work on a pencil skirt muslin. Every Fall I seem to get an itch to improve fitting. I now believe that I don't have the body to wear a fitted pencil skirt which is the reason I never could get one to fit well. I did sign up for Shannon Gifford's muslin skirt on Pattern Review and, currently, I am working on Muslin Try Four. I'll work on it for a bit more with hopes of having a skirt sloper. I'm sure that it will help with the fit in the the waist and hips for other skirts and pants. This "fitting gig" requires a lot of work and patience. That's the reason I made the t-shirt while I was waiting for feedback from Shannon. I'm waiting for Shannon's comments on my last attempt. Believe me, I'm ready to move on to more exciting projects!

Burda 08-2009-110 High Waisted Skirt

2009-10-12T11:49:00.000-07:00

I love this skirt and love the fabric. Actually, it was easy to make. I took my time with it because I used Dawn's skirt facing tutorial and made a walking vent for the first time (much easier than I thought!). The fabric is from GorgeousFabrics and is a dream to sew and wear. I like the blue so much that I want to buy more fabric in the color (after I do some stash reduction!!). Unfortunately, I don't have anything to wear with the skirt until I finished a blouse that is currently in progress. I made the belt loops about an inch and a half lower than the pattern. The skirt seemed to look better with my short proportions. Most of what height I have is in my legs. Here's the skirt on Dolly:

In MHO, the inside of the skirt looks a lot neat than what I usually do. I wish that I had thought about matching the patterns on the lining. Oh, well - next time!

Because I happened to have some binding that matched, I bound the hem of the lining. It hangs so well that it was worth the little bit of extra effort.

I'm off to hem a t-shirt in some more wonderful fabric from Gorgeous Fabric. The t-shirt is just standard but the fabric is a lot of fun.

Casting for My Life Story

2009-10-06T16:25:00.000-07:00

This meme was started by Ann. As soon as I saw her post, I knew The actress that I would pick to play the role of me in a movie about my life. Kristin Chenoweth would be my choice for the role.

She's tiny. I'm 5' tall and most of my life I weighed 100 lbs. wet. I think that she could portray the contradictions in my personality. There's a crazy, fun loving side and a serious, get down to business side. In her role on "Pushing Daisies", she showed the adventurous, let's just do it side of me. I lived in many states and lived and worked in Australia for 2 years. I've completed 30 marathons and did my first triathlon before I knew how to swim (lived to talk about that one). Heck, who needs to know how before you do it. I did learn to swim before the next one. I rode my bicyle 170 miles across Florida in one day and did it again three times. The list goes on too long for this post. In the other side of personality, I'm serious about accurate, honest, don't-pay-more-than-you have-to tax returns, appropriate discipline, and budgets that must balance. My checkbook is balanced to the penny (actually found a 1 cent error on the bank's part once). Besides, Kristin played the good witch in "Wicked" and "The Wizard of Oz" is one of my favorite movies. One of the fun things I did when I was Dean of Students at the community college was to dress up as the "Good Witch of the West" at Halloween. One of my friends enjoyed being the evil witch (She wasn't evil at all). We had a lot fun for a number of years and the students loved it. I bet she could even portray me trying to learn to sew and buying fabric like it was the wonderful investment that it is!

September Review: Fast Sewing for Dummies

2009-10-06T11:57:00.000-07:00

I think that a better title for this post might be "Ideas for SLOW sewers to finish more garments without just sewing simple and easy things". That's not as catchy a title although it's more accurate. I don't consider myself a dummie - I just sew slowly. I have been pondering the question of how to complete more garments (so I can use the gorgeous fabric I have and buy more stuff). This month, with only two garments completed, may not be the best one to discuss this topic, but I have been pondering ways to complete more garments. I sew every chance I get in my life which is sometimes hectic. I doubt that I can create anymore actual sewing time unless I give up some others things that I enjoy.

Actually, I am okay with the two garments that I did finish this month. That number is appearing too frequently! My two sisters-in-law (more like sisters) visited for a week. I enjoyed seeing them a lot but it took away from sewing time. Also, this month I took Susan Khalje's Top 10 Couture Techniques Class from Pattern Review. It's a great course for taking sewing up a notch or two or more. I made a lot of samples. That's not a contradition to my desire for finishing more garments. I want to improve quality as well as quantity. Now, I don't think that is asking too much, right? There are a couple of the samples that I am so proud of that I took pictures. For the first time, I actually did bias sphagetti straps. Look at how narrow the little one is! I never could get them to turn before.

I've done narrow hems before and they looked well sewn. This sample actually took less time, is narrower (would work on chiffon!), and neater. I have a better feel for the difference between good sewing and fine sewing. This sample is the inside of the "garment" and done in contrasting thread so I could critique what I was doing

As for the finished garments this month, the jury is still out on what to do with the orange Ottobre top that I finished. I feel so much better about it after reading your positive comments. I'll try taking in the side seams and experiment with a belt. The final decision will be made next summer. The second garment is a skirt, Burda 08-09-110. I love the skirt but discovered that I have nothing to wear with it. I'm working on a blouse to take care of that. In the meantime, I'll do pictures with Dolly wearing it and do a blog post soon.

I am slowly (appropriate for my present sewing speed) getting to the subject of fast sewing. I wonder about people like Karen , Dawn , Shannon , and Carolyn (just to name a few) who produce so many garments, simple and elaborate, and all well made. I think that the bottom line is that they know what they are doing (duh!). I know that a lot of people sew faster when they have a deadline. For me, I can stay more focused if I have at least a week. Most of the time, just sewing fast for me is spelled WADDER. I may "step on the gas" sometimes, but usually I just plod along. I do keep track of my time and, for the most part, I am sewing about twice as fast as I did a year ago. I don't have to stop and think as much. After pondering the question of what works for me, I've determined that most of the helpful things are in the preparation. I hesitated about posting about this topic because most of things are in the category of "I should have known that". Well, I didn't and maybe someone else out in blogland doesn't know either. All of these ideas, so far, have come from someone else. I'll note their names if I can remember. At least, I'll have some reminders for myself. Here are are some of the things that have helped me:
1. Couture sewing is not always more time consuming. Some of the techniques can save time as well as producing quality garments. I won't be ignoring couture techniques just because I am not an advanced seamstress yet.
2. Reading a sewing book from cover to cover often reveals helpful ideas. I am amazed at the number of helpful ideas for a recent or current garment that I find. I tended to use my sewing books as references and will continue to do so. Now I also have a better idea of where to look.
3. I attached a pair of scissors to the thread stand next to my sewing machine. I often stopped to look for those scissors, but no more. I'm pretty good about keeping other sewing tool organized. I have thought about putting my seam ripper on a ribbon around my neck. I keep hoping I will not have to look for it as much (lol). BTW, I am becoming an expert at using my seam ripper and hope to move on to other skills!
4. I press fabric with a spitz bottle (for most fabrics), a dry iron, and with the selvage grain. This tip came from reading through David Coffin's shirt making book. I had been carefully straightening the grain of my fabric and then steaming the fabric out of shape. Cutting is much faster because I don't have to fiddle with the fabric to get it back on grain at the cutting table.
5. Use caution with a TNT pattern or a pattern similar to one I've made. Check the pattern measurements and/or think about how the pattern will sew in a particular fabric. A quick glance at the instructions can help avoid: I thought I knew how to sew this, but I just forgot.

That's all I can think of right now. I will keep a list for next month's review as I discover or think of things.

Adios to summer and to Octtobre 05/08 #10

2009-09-29T13:16:00.000-07:00

Around our house, summer officially ends once the Fall garden is planted. Well, the garden planting was finished this weekend. The temperature now is just 80 degrees. That's a cold front for us!!

I wanted to make a simple raglan sleeve t-shirt for my last summer garment. I have numerous patterns that met that criteria. Why did I pick the Octtobre 05/08 #10 jersey? Actually, I had a reason that would have been a good one if the pattern looked like the picture and line drawing. It had what looked like a slight amount of gathers around the neckline. Now, I know I could have looked at the pattern more closely and would have known that there was mucho ease in the front. I've made size 40 in Octtobre patterns before and they fit perfectly. I didn't stop to think about fit. That goes to show me that a tape measure should go on new patterns! I do think that I will remember that one!! This top has enough ease to make a great maternity top. At least it is comfortable. Both the top and the Hepburn pants wear pretty well. In these pictures, I had just returned from dinner with DH's sisters, my son and 2 grandchildren (ages 3 and 5). Normally, I would have been pretty rumbled. There is some "kiddie wear" but not a lot. I love this cotton knit fabric but it needed a different pattern! Here's what it looks like:

After the pictures were taken, I got an urge to see what the top would look like if I reversed it. I didn't think about being outside and took it off and put it on with the back in front. Our next door neigbor is quite elderly and don't think he could see anything even if he was looking. Oh well. If he saw anything, I gave him something new to talk about. Here's what the top looks like reversed:
In MHO, the front looks a lot better although it is still pretty full.

The back looks all right I think.

I apologize for the dark background but I have to take advantage of my photographer's availability. It wasn't that dark, but it was dusk. Oh well.

As for this top, I know I won't be making the pattern again. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the top. There are a number of options: recut and make into t-shirt, wear it for housecleaning (that means it won't be worn often), wad it, or give it to Goodwill (probably for an expectant mother). For now, I think I'll put it away with my summery clothes and decide next year. I'm ready for Fall sewing!!!

Chanel Jacket - 2 Trim

2009-09-25T06:53:00.000-07:00

It's time for the fun part. I still haven't made a decision about the trim for the jacket. I could use the winter white or orange as a binding around the edges. The wool in both colors miters easily so either would work. I don't have any trim or ribbon that will work with the jacket fabric. Of course, I could go shopping! I kinda of like "that's it" feeling and it hasn't come yet. What do you think?

Hopefully, I can put scissors to fabric in the next few days.

Chanel Jacket 1

2009-09-18T08:15:00.000-07:00

One of my sewing goals is to make a Chanel Jacket. I love the many versions that I have seen. When I read about ChanelSewAlong I just had to participate even though I joined the group late. After looking at numerous patterns, I decided to use KS 3258 for the first of many (I hope!!) chanel jackets.
I am going to make view B with long sleeves. I am still debating about putting in a zipper but I don't think that it will enhance the design. I certainly don't need it for most of the Florida winter. My muslin is a size S in the shoulder, neck, and armscyle area with a size M for the side seams. The only adjustment that I made was a 1/2" petite adjustment in the armscyle area.

I'm pleased with the fit for a first muslin. The adjustments that I think are needed are: raise the bust dart 1/4", add 1" to both sides of the front seam, and shorten the sleeves 1/2". I like the length where it is so I will add a hem allowance. The side looks pretty good to me and certainly the sleeves are the best fit I've ever done. I have toothpick arms so these narrow sleeves are wonderful to me. I wasn't very careful setting in the sleeves but they did go in easily.

The back fits all right as far as I can tell.Here are pictures with my hands on my hips. I think that is a way to check on ease. In the front view, I can see the horizontal lines on the left side so I know that they are straight. I marked the left pocket flap locations and will raise the top one a bit.

I've made the adjustments on the tissue and did a tissue fitting. That looks good. I am concerned that the front seams don't meet at the top and the bottom. They fit at first and then fall when I move. That was not a problem with the tissue fitting. I'm hoping that adding facings will take care of that.

I welcome any comments and suggestions that anyone has. I'm planning to do a second muslin to check my adjustments. I know the fit will never be perfect with my body but I want to get as close as possible.

Loes Hinse Hepburn Pants

2009-09-12T10:33:00.000-07:00

The LH Hepburn Pants deserve a separate post. These pants surprised me in several ways, but I wanted to try the pattern anyway. I was concerned about the gathers at the waist as I have certainly don't need any extra bulk in that area. The gathers smooth out so much during wear that there was no problem. The fly front instructions were different and I feared that would give me problems. Funny, the mind works in strange ways and sure enough they did give me the problems that I expected. Actually, they are much easier than the traditional fly zipper opening. I somehow made them difficult. I won't get into the construction details as Shannon did such a great tutorial. If you want to make these pants, I suggest that you read her tutorial. This link shows all the many samples of the pants she has made. If you scroll down to 8/14/09, you'll have the tutorial.

My version of the pants was made from toffee silk noile from Nancy's Notions. The fabric sewed beautifully. For the first time I attached elastic with the serger. That worked really well and is a lot faster than using the sewing machine. The finish is sooo much neater. I do have to practice getting my gathers more even, but the results this time look fine when I'm wearing the pants. Here's a picture that shows the full pants:

I'll definitely be making these pants again. I have a number of comfortable pants patterns, but these rate #1. The sewing doesn't take much longer than pullon pants (unless you try to make them difficult like I did) and the fit is nicer especially around the hip and tummy area (I don't need any extra fabric there!).

August Review: Highs and Lows

2009-09-02T04:45:00.000-07:00

For August, I completed two garments and almost finished a top. I'll do a post soon about the reason that top didn't quite make the August total. During two lack-of-focus weeks, I traced a bunch of patterns and even cut out a few of them. Most of them will be put away until Spring arrives. A few went on my Fall sewing list. I am so ready to start sewing for cooler weather. I'm looking forward to this hot, steamy weather ending.

On the positive side, I did attach collar bands and collars for a blouse and a jacket. I thought my collar points were good, but had a long way to go. Then, I compared them to a Liz Clairborne blouse in my closet. I'd still like to get closer to perfect, but the collars were as good as the Liz blouse. Perhaps, I'm being too hard on myself. I'll always be working on sewing skills - at least I'm progressing!

The blouse is V2634 made from a cotton print from GorgeousFabrics. Although the colors are not the most flattering for me, I loved this fabric when I first saw it on the site. It hardly winkles (amazing for a cotton) and is soft and comfortable to wear. I also like the pattern. I made size 12 in the shoulder/sleeve area and size 14 in the hip area. The fit is about as good as I can get with my lopsided body. I love the blouse and know that I'll make it many times. Next time, I'll put in sleeves and, hopefully, the pattern will work as well.

The other finished garment was Loes Hinse Hepburn pants. For some reason, I struggled with the zipper insertion. I've done lots of fly fronts, but this method was different. It took a long time for me to wrap my mind around it. I tried this pattern because Shannon likes it so much. At first, I thought that it was sort of silly to put a zipper in pants with an elastic waistband. Once I finished them I understood why she likes the pattern so much. The fit and comfort is much better than pullon pants. I haven't worn them out yet. That will be the real comfort test. These pants deserve their own post. I'll do pictures and blog about them later in the week.

That's about it for August. Right now, I need to hem my last summery top and get going on Fall Sewing. Yea!!

The Buttonholder Took My Mojo

2009-08-22T12:38:00.000-07:00

I lost my sewing mojo for the past couple of weeks. I never thought that it would happen to me. That'll teach me to be so smug. I was ready to put button holes in my red, white, and blue blouse. Also, I need to do button holes for the green linen jacket. For some reason I just could not bring myself to do them. I don't understand it. I have done many successful button holes. So, I found all kinds of other things to do: organizing stuff, tracing patterns, fitting patterns, cutting out garments, planning Fall sewing, even doing some much needed household chores. Meanwhile, Big Bertha (my sewing machine) sat idle and didn't even call for me. Thursday night DH wanted to watch "Top Chef". I said go ahead, without complaining, and just recorded "Project Runway".

Well, last night I watched all 3 hours of Project Runway. I was so happy to see Tim Gunn and Heidi again!! I was disappointed with the winners. At the same time, I enjoyed listening to the judges' comments. They must know a lot more than I do about style. I would not buy or make many of the garments they liked. Mainly, Tim Gunn is extremely motivating to me. Finally, I'm happily sewing again. I was up and at my machine early this morning. My button holes for the blouse are done. Of course, the thread broke on one of them so I had to rip and resew. I think that was my sewing machine reminding me not to forget it for so long! I've almost finished the Loes Hines Hepburn pants that were cut out in May. The instructions are so different from what I usually do. I couldn't make sense of them. The light finally dawned today. They are still challenging for me to make. I'm not sure that they are particularly difficult. They are just different from the way I normally sew pants. Well, I have the waistband to sew down, hems, and hook and eye. The mojo should last long enough to finish those few things!

I am going to take a sewing break now and look through the stash for jacket fabric. I've joined the ChanelJacketSewalong and still need to finalize the pattern and fabric.

I am amazed at how animals can pickup on our moods. Harry, the cat, is usually happily testing fabric and meowing with pleasure at my sewing efforts. Today, he is back to his normal Sewing Guru self. For a while, he looked more like this closing shot:

Progress

2009-08-07T07:18:00.000-07:00

Sewing has been more challenging this past week. New skills just take a while to learn! Most of the sewing has been good with a few clinches. (I made sure my seam ripper was handy.)

The pockets are ready to be sewn on the Burda 02/2009 #115 jacket. I know at least one of the individuals who reviewed this pattern put the pockets on before doing the hem and facing. Burda instructions have you sew the pockets over the hem and facing. This time I decided to go with Burda so the pockets are waiting. I spent a lot of time preparing the pockets because I really want them to be exactly even and the same size. So, I used a variation of a tip from Shannon Gifford. (Note: Her courses on PatternReview are excellent.) She suggests tracing the pocket without seam allowances on cardboard. For these pockets, I used template plastic which, IMHO, is easier for tracing than cardboard. The first step is pinning the pocket pleats on the pattern:

Then, I traced the pocket and flap without seam allowances. The pattern slipped a bit with those pleats pinned so I checked and corrected the tracing. I labeled both pieces, partly because I'm scatterbrained and partly because I may use these tracings for pockets on another garment.

Then, I cut out my traced patterns and used them to iron the seam allowances over them. The ironing was easier and more accurate. I checked my accuracy by folding the pockets and flap at the center mark to make sure both sides were the same. Then, I checked the pockets and flaps to make sure they were the same size. They were! (Before making the pleats and pressing the seams, I added fusible interfacing to the top of the pockets. I do use pockets and want them to be stable.)

Here's my big clinch:

The linen I used has some lycra in it. The fabric must have slipped because the upper sleeveon one side was cut way off grain and hung crooked. I ripped and carefully pinned this sleeve so that it would hang on grain. What a pain! The difference between the upper and lower sleeve is not big so, hopefully, I can just shorten the sleeves a bit and still use the sleeve bands. Naturally, I did not have enough fabric to cut another top sleeve! After the fact, I remembered a tip that I read somewhere (can't remember where) to press fabric with a dry iron, spitz with water, and iron parallel to the selvage. I tried that with a skirt I cut out last weekend. The fabric lies so nicely. I guess I've been steaming the fabric out of shape. That won't happen again!!

The collar is ready. I really worked on it. The points are pretty good but I sure wish I could do them better. I know, from past experience, that the points can only take so much fiddling before a hole appears. I used Pam's tutorial for the collar except that I didn't have to turning tool she used. That tool is on its way to me now.

I had to read the instructions for installing the collar several times. Finally, I figured them out. The front facing is only sewed to the notch for the end of the collar before the collar is sandwiched in between.

I did pin the CB and shoulder points to check the fit first. We'll have to see how this works.

Then, I moved on to doing another collar for a shirt that I had cut out. I just had to try that collar again quickly. It was sort of like someone who comes close to drowning in a pool. They had better get right back in (assuming there is no physical damage, of course) and start swimming. Otherwise, a lifelong fear of water can occur. I certainly don't want to have a lifelong fear of pointed collars. Here's my blouse V2634, in process, that I hope to finish this weekend:

July Review: The F Words

2009-08-01T15:16:00.000-07:00

No, there were not any nasty words coming out of my sewing room during July. The words that describe my sewing for the month are: four, fun, and fortunate.These monthly reviews do provide me with an incentive to focus on finishing projects. I like numbers, but sewing is not a numbers game for me. Sure, I could complete a lot of garments and even use up a lot of fabric. All I have to do is make a bunch of quick TNT T-shirts. Although I do wear a lot of t-shirts, I would find that kind of sewing BORING. I like variety. Also, I want to continue to increase my sewing skills. I know how to make t-shirts. Hopefully, I'll add to my list of "know how tos" by the end of the year.

I completed four garments this month: the S2936 raglan sleeve blouse in a woven fabric, a TNT KS3338 T-shirt, the Ottobre 02/2009 #1 Camisole Top, and a pair of "cheatin' jeans" from Loes Hines Cruise Pants pattern. These garments did provide a little bit of new learning. I'm proud of the way the woven blouse turned out. I'm about ready to move to a tailored blouse with set-in sleeves. The camisole was a new pattern which really didn't provide any new learning. I do have a great way to use up knit scraps. The pull-on pants gave me an opportunity to practice using the heavy jean topstitch thread. There will be a pair of jeans in the near future. (The pattern is cut out ready for tissue fitting and a muslin.) I made the KS t-shirt just because I love the fabric.

I had a lot of fun during July. While the seam ripper did appear on several occasions, there were no frustrating problems. I traced and cutout some patterns. The planning and starting of new projects always is exciting. (That's the reason why I need some means of accountability.) I also did the dreaded pointed collar and collar stand for a blouse and my "never-ending" green linen jacket. They turned out a lot better than any of previous attempts. I'll definitely wear the blouse and jacket (assuming I can attach them satisfactorily). They don't look as good as I'd like but they are not bad. Plus, I didn't find the process frustrating and enjoyed trying a new technique. Maybe I really am learning to sew!!!

I feel quite fortunate to have such a wonderful fabric collection. Now that I've gotten over my purchasing guilt, it's nice to be able to "shop" at home with such gorgeous choices. I did put away some of my fabric choices for summer projects since I know I won't be able to complete them before Fall. I have more than enough still in my current projects basket. I started looking at my fabric for Fall and have a basket full of those choices. I think the Vogue Pattern Magazine and the Vogue Pattern Sale started that. Plus, I do love Fall sewing with all the earth tones. I have plenty of brown fabric to use along with matching colors.

Well, good-bye July and hello August. I'm working on the green jacket and, if nothing major happens, I'll finish it this month. I don't know how much wear I get from it now, but it's bugging me.

Cheatin' Jeans and Cherry Scraps

2009-07-31T06:06:00.000-07:00

I cut out these Loes Hines Cruise Pants in December. The game plan was a quick pair of pullon pants where I could practice sewing on denim and topstitching with the heavier jean thread. The sewing was quick - I just took a long time getting started. Now I really want to make a real pair of jeans and thought it best to get this practicing done. I used a 100 jeans/denim needle and everything behaved like any other fabric. I looked for a 90 needle but there weren't any available at my local store. I just used what I had. I didn't want to wait to order a needle. It's been long enough! For the topstitching, I used 100 topstitch needle and increased the top tension on my sewing machine. The stitches look fine to me. I will invest in a jean double needle for the real pair. I did a fairly good job by using my edge foot twice and adjusting the needle position, but there are places where the distance between stitches isn't precise. Ya' all know how those little imperfections can bug ya. No, they didn't bug enough to rip and sew again. I consider this a learning experience for the next round. I eliminated the side-seam pockets in the pattern and added pockets in the back. I pulled up the top so you can see the pockets. I'm happy with pocket location although I always wear over blouses of some sort. I think I'll use smaller pockets next time. There's not much of me in the back. (I sure do wish I could reverse my body parts so I'd have a nice flat tummy and nicely rounded rear.)

I used the cherry fabric scraps to make the Ottobre 02/09 #1 Camisole Top. I was surprised at how much I like it. The project was quick, used scraps, and (to my surprise) fit pretty well. It's a perfect top for the beach. I doubt that I'll wear it anywhere else. I plan to make many more versions of this. Look out scrap bin! It's perfect to wear under a low-cut top or a jacket. I still have enough cherry fabric left to make a collar or trim for another top. At the present time, that fabric has joined the scrap bin. I love the cherry fabric, but I'm tired of it! Here's a back view of the camisole. The only adjustment I'll make next time is a slight sway back adjustment.

Now, I really should work on the green linen that I've started sewing. I just don't feel like it so I probably won't. I know what happens when I sew a "should" and, so far, the jacket is coming along nicely.

Cherry Pitfall

2009-07-29T10:36:00.000-07:00

The sewing on this T-shirt was fine. I love trying different t-shirt patterns and this KS3338 is my TNT for a simple, casual knit top. I like the slight gathers at the side that take care of most of the winkling around the armhole. I took the picture on Dolly so you could see the gathers. The gathers hardly show at all when I wear it. I need a dart in most patterns. The dart gives the shirt a more fitted and often more formal look. That look is great but not always what I want. The fabric for my Cherry T-Shirt was 100% cotton. There were no problems with sewing the fabric.

So...Where was the pitfall? I have been pretty good (for me) about limiting the additions to my fabric collection. Starting with the purchase of this fabric, I have serious concerns that I am a fabric addict. I showed all the signs. I thought I had it under control. I love to look at different fabrics on blogs and fabric sites. I was looking a lot, as usual. For a while, I was able to say "Oh, that's beautiful but I need to sew more of the beauties I have first". Then, I just had to check out what Lucy's Fabrics had to offer. I saw this cherry fabric. My last name is Cherry. (Yes, I know. My name is a flower and a fruit. I get a lot of looks of disbelief and attempts to misspell my name in some way.) Most fabrics with a cherry print have a white background. I look drained in pure white so I've never bought them. This fabric had a cream background. It was a knit that I could sew quickly. I had to have it right away. Well, we all know that fabric shouldn't travel alone. I easily found another nice fabric. Did I stop there? Of course, I didn't. I found serveral more and pretty soon I was close to the $75 for free shipping. You got it. I added another fabric. Why pay for shipping when I could have a cut of fabric instead? That started a roll of fabric purchases that lasted for several days. It really wasn't my fault. All these sites had such great sales. Yea, right. I was like an alcholic who was going to the bar with friends. For a long time, he/she would just have water or maybe a drink or two. Then, one night this game plan resulted in so many drinks that he/she was passed out. Well, I didn't have a hangover at least. I just had a lot of guilt - not so much about the fabric I purchased. I love the new members of my fabric family. I only have guilt about the big gap between what I buy and what I turn into finished garments. I don't know if anybody noticed, but I did not include the yards of fabric purchased in my June Review. I'm too embarrassed at my June behavior! I'd like to think that I don't have an addiction. I only have a lust for fabric. I'm not real sure there is a difference. At least I did finish a garment in the month that I purchased the fabric. That's a first. There may be hope for me yet.

The Aztec Blouse: Gestalt or Fit?

2009-07-20T14:28:00.000-07:00

After finishing this S2936 blouse, I had to ask myself a new sewing question. What is more important: an excellant fit or the overall look of the garment?

I have to remember to take "before" pictures when I decide to make a change. Unfortunately, I didn't with this blouse. The blouse pattern has tucks in the front. Originally, I sewed the tucks and was soooo pleased with the fit of the blouse. I've struggled with the fit of woven tops for so long!! The look was not so good as the tucks took away from the design of the fabric. I love this Aztec-looking fabric. It was not happy with the tucks. This time I listened to the fabric and took out the tucks. The Gestalt of the look was much better. The fit is all right but not quite so good. The fabric was happy without the tucks so I left them out. I definitely will make this pattern again in a less busy fabric and include those tucks.

The pattern was easy to make and not difficult to fit. I made a size 12 in the shoulder/armhole area and size 14 in the hips. Next time I'll raise the neckline about 1/2". It's still a bit low although I sewed the neck with 1/4" seams. I had to let out the side seams 1/4" as it was a bit snug (with the tucks, of course). I had to take in the raglan seams on the front and back - probably could have made a size 10 for the neckline and sleeves. I didn't add the band to the sleeves as shown in the pattern. I liked them better with a narrow hem in this fabric.

The fabric is 100% cotton and, surprisingly, does not wrinkle at all. I'm finally on a positive roll - sure hope it continues for a while.

Little Things Make a Difference

2009-07-19T11:02:00.000-07:00

I know that little things do make a difference. Why am I so amazed when I actually see the difference? Just goes to show you - When something doesn't seem just right, it probably isn't. The solution takes a while to find. Sooo....Here's my completed BWOF 12-2008-114. It almost became a nightgown (as originally designed by Burda).

I took off the original neck binding. That was so much "fun". I must have patience that I didn't realize I had. I had to be so careful not to stretch the neck. Yes, there were several times that the thought of nightgown sounded pretty good! Once I finished it, I tried the dress on with my new red shoes that I love. Both the shoes and dress instantly looked blah. Amazing!! Fortunately, I had these black shoes that worked fine. For comparison, here's my original dress:

I love the new version. Sometimes a little more time and patience is worth it!

Mending Made Interesting

2009-07-05T17:41:00.000-07:00

I hate mending. Actually, I'd rather make a garment from scratch than mend. DH has a lounge shirt that ripped up the side. He also wanted a button or snap to close the front opening. That's not a big whoop, right? So, it sat on my table (hidden under interfacing) for several days. After considerable nagging, I finally decided to get it done. The interesting part is the button loop. I often use an elastic ponytail tie as the loop for button closures on purses. I'd been wondering if that approach would work on garments. Well, it worked well on this shirt. All I do is position the tie, tack it down by hand, and cut off the part not used for the loop. I think it looks pretty good and is easy to slide off the button. That's not always true for thread loops in my experience. I don't think that it would work for any garment that is not casual but it certainly is a speedy way to do a closure.

Yes, I also fixed the ripped seam. I wanted it done to stop the nagging until the next mending project. Poor guy, he really does need to get some benefit from all the time I spend in my sewing room. This "project" took all of 30 minutes max. Once I decided to do a "sewing sample", it was no problem at all getting it done - just an attitude change.

June Review

2009-07-03T11:22:00.000-07:00

In my sewing world, June began with a shell that was okay but messy to sew, continued with a dress with good sewing but poor design, and ended with a skirt that I love. That's a pretty good way to end the month! I've posted about the NL6163 shell. The second garment was BWOF 12-2008-114 dress. The polyester knit fabric was not something I usually wear but I really like it. It's been in my stash waiting for the right pattern. When I saw Karen's interpretation of this Burda nightgown pattern, I thought that I had found THE pattern. When I finished it, I was not sure if I had a nightgown or a dress. I put it on the dressform and tried it with a red belt. The belt helped but still "no cigar" in my opinion.
So, I had my photographer and outside designer (DH) take a picture of me wearing the dress. Please excuse the lack of makeup, combed hair, and shoes. I wasn't planning on posting the picture. I decided to go ahead as the picture also shows part of my "organized" sewing room with WIP and I want to have a "before" picture. DH said that something was wrong with the neckline. I think that it is a little too low, but he didn't have a problem with that (men!). He said that the neckline fabric binding makes it look like I sewed it wrong (not so!). I held up some red knit to the neckline and it looked sooo much better. As they say in the Fashion Show, I was "hanging by a thread" although the sewing was fine. Fortunately, I can fix it. Also, I'll add some belt loops. With my high hip, the belt hangs a bit crooked.

The third garment is a stretch linen skirt, BWOF 08-2008-121. I did my usual adjustments: increased the waist at the side seams 3/8", shortened 2 inches, and did a 1/2" high hip adjustment. I lined it with 100% silk that I bought on sale at Fabric Mart. The colors weren't great but it is nice and comfy for lining. The fit was perfect to me. This skirt has a nice swing that makes me smile. I'll do a full review on PatternReview soon.

I will wear it with an over-blouse. I'm just to crooked to show my waist unless I'm showing a design!

I'm pretty pleased with my sewing productivity given that this was a busy month in the garden. Although hubbie is the master gardener, I still have quite a bit of work to do helping him. We"ve closed up most of one of the gardens for the summer.

There are a couple of lima bean and snap bean plants peeking through the covers. Ever try to shell lima beans? I love to eat fresh ones, but they are hard on the nails and patience. We have cucumbers and snow beans still left in this garden.

This picture shows the second garden. If you look closely, you can see the few cherry tomatoes that we have left. There also are collard greens and pineapple plants.I love minature roses. I lost one of my favorites during our three weeks of solid rain. That plant survived 3 hurricanes (barely) and just drowned in the downpour of rain. Anyway, My sweet DH bought me several more. Two of them have been planted in their new homes.

I should be able to spend more time in the sewing room this month. First up is fixing that crazy print dress with a red neck binding. Then, I'll do the buttonholes and buttons for a blouse that goes with the green linen skirt. I almost finished it in June, but didn't quite make it.

Invisible Zipper

2009-06-27T05:52:00.000-07:00

Finally, the sewing goddess has granted me a success. I was leary of trying an invisible zipper because there are many people who have trouble with it. Of course, others consider it a simple task. It was time for me to just do it. For the first time, I think it turned out well. I didn't even have to pull out my seam ripper. I know there were no seams to match so I don't want to get too cocky. Now, I believe it is as easy as any other zipper and the results look so much more professional.

For instructions, I used a combination of the tutorial from Els and the instructions in Bernina's Features Book. I have the Bernina invisible zipper foot #35 and wanted to use it. With the foot, it is not necessary to press the coils. For these instructions to work, the zipper has to be at least one inch longer than the opening. My zipper was just a little over 1 inch longer. I started pretty much like a centered zipper: stabilized the zipper opening, sewed up to the zipper opening point and basted the zipper opening. After pressing the seam open, I removed the basting. Thank you, Els, for this info which helped me a lot. My pressing showed me exactly where the zipper needed to be stitched. The zipper coil is placed precisely at the pressed fold. I pinned the right side of the zipper (Bernina does right side first, Els does left side first), checked it was in the right place, basted it, and sewed from the top to the end of the opening. Like Els, I sewed a diagonal line at the end rather than backstitching. Then I closed the zipper (just my approach), pinned it in place, opened the zipper, checked the left coil was on the fold, and basted it. I didn't backstitch when I started sewing the left side as I fully expected to have to rip it! Naturally, I was prepared so it went in just fine. I pulled the zipper pull up near the end of the opening (just a peek so it didn't get in the way of the foot). After sewing to the end of the opening, I pulled the top thread to the back and did a few back stitches by hand. I did not cut off the end of the zipper - doesn't seem to be a problem. If it is, I always can cut it off and bar tack the end. Sorry, I didn't take pictures as I was constructing this. I was focused and wasn't sure that it would work. Here's a picture of the inside of the finished zipper:

The skirt is finished now except for the final pressing. Once I do that, I'll post about the skirt construction.

NL6163: Kindergarten Lessons

2009-06-26T14:51:00.000-07:00

Although I finished this top over a week ago, I debated about doing this post. I've decided that I need to record my experience with this shell for myself anyway. I doubt it, but I may just warn somebody else. Here's the top:

Here's the back view:

I think that this is an o.k top. Certainly the fit needs some tweeks. I could have had a fabulous blouse. Here I thought that I was ready for the 3rd grade in my sewing education and I forgot some basics from kindergarten.

1. Listen to the fabric. I originally planned this fabric for another blouse. As hard I tried, I couldn't fit the pattern pieces on this piece of fabric. So, What did I say: Fabric, there's not enough of you for this blouse. I'll have to make this blouse out of this other fabric. You'll have to be this shell. The fabric said it didn't want to be that shell and, without thinking, I said "yes, you will". Now, I never would have talked to my children that way. I would hope that lightening would strike me if I ever said another child can have what one child wants, but he(she) can't. I would have tried to redirect the child's attention or talk about possible alternatives - just wouldn't have said "no way". How could I treat my beloved fabric this way? No wonder this fabric misbehaved. If you think that I am nuts, you are right. At the same time, I've never met (or read sewing blog or book) a sewer who I respected who didn't talk about what the fabric wants or, at least, the feel of a fabric for a particular pattern. As I was hemming this shell, I remembered that I had some orange fabric that would work beautifully for the sleeves. I could have added some trim or binding to tie in the color. There are always alternatives - I just didn't pay attention to what the fabric was saying. No wonder it misbehaved!!!

2. After making a pattern, write the corrections for next time on the instruction sheet - at the top and in red. The best thing to do is make the corrections before filing the pattern away, but that doesn't happen often for me. I made this pattern before. It fit nicely in a drapey rayon. I did have trouble with the facing fitting. I usually have to redraft the shoulders and armscye which means drawing new facing patterns. Last time I made it the facing didn't quite fit. I was able to deal with it all right because that fabric eased well. My medium weight cotton didn't ease at all - it just pulled and puckered. I found my note on a piece of paper that got stuck in one of the pattern pieces. (A lot of good that did!)

3. Never ASSUME that pattern pieces will fit together after making alterations (true for new patterns that aren't altered, too). Check them. If I had taken 5 minutes to check those facing pieces, I would have known that I had to redraft them.

4. When something is a mess, don't panic. Think of alternative solutions and how they will look on the garment. Sooo, what did I do about those pulling, puckering facings? They were drafted in one piece with the neckline and armscye in one piece. I simply cut them apart and had little, tiny facing. They were a struggle to get pressed and sewed down - even with topstitching. Certainly, the look is not very polished and professional. It would have taken less time to rip the facing off and sew binding at the neckline and armholes. I didn't have enough fabric to cut new facing but I did have enough to do binding which would have worked better on this top. Another alternative would have been to cut facings from another fabric. This blouse should have had binding from the beginning. I just didn't think. I was to busy fighting with the fabric (see #1).

Actually, the fabric is happier now that it met the orange pants. They are quite happy together. At least I learned a lot from this experience. I actually believe I will remember these lesson that I relearned the hard way.

The Sewing List

2009-06-17T07:32:00.000-07:00

Marji wrote a post about how she loves lists. I do also. I make yearly lists, dailey lists, and sewing lists. I'm much more likely to get something done if it's on "the list". Yes, I do get many of the things I write on a list done. Since I tend to make ambitious lists (There is sooo much I want to do and so little time to do them.), I seldom cross everything off my list but the lists help a lot. At the beginning of this year, I gave a lot of thought to what I was doing with my sewing. There were two major problems:

1. I tried to do projects way beyond my sewing skills and became frustrated.
2. I had a lot of trouble staying focused on a project -probably related to #1.

My solution was to make a sewing list of no more than 15 projects that includes garments that either increase basic skills leading up to a tailored jacket or coat by the end of the year, decrease my wonderful stash, or add to basic wardrobe needs. Yea, I know....just about any garment can fall into one of those categories. That's o.k. - at least I know why it goes on the list. The probablity that it will be done is much higher. Every season I add 4 coordinated garments that are made from stash fabric. I'm also a mood sewer. One day I feel like sewing on red or another color. One day I'm ready to take on a fitting or sewing challenge and another day I just want to sew and see quick results. I wish that I could be more like others and start and finish a project before I start another. That seems more productive on the surface but doesn't work very well for me. So, my sewing list contains and focuses somewhat. I have to chose something from the list to sew depending on the mood of the day. While I would like to be more productive, the list has helped.

Here's my current sewing list:
1. Denim pull-on pants with jean topstitching - in preparation for making a "real" pair of jeans.
2. Black Pants - a wardrobe need.
3. Green Linen Jacket - Spring wardrobe and sewing an unlined jacket
4. Green Linen Skirt - Spring wardrobe and putting in an invisible zipper
5. Brown Silk pants - Spring wardrobe
6. Jeans muslin - hopefully wearable - from mid-range priced fabric in case it's terrible
7. Olive/Multi blouse - wardrobe need
8. Green Knit Top - wardrobe need and easy project
9. Purple Dress - wardrobe need and easy project
10. Red/white/Black Knit Dress - wardrobe need and easy project
11. White Dress - fitted and lined dress
12. Tailored jacket - lined jacket
13. Cardigan jacket - fit a new knit jacket and wardrobe need

That really is enough to keep me busy. I will add 4 co-ordinated summer garments soon. I won't list the other projects that keep spinning around in my head. After all, I do need to remain somewhat focused!

KS 3620

2009-06-10T12:35:00.000-07:00

This KS 3620 blouse is really a wearable muslin. I've been working on this pattern, as a fitting excercise, for a while now. I will continue to work on it and probably will have a dozen of them made before I am excited about the fit. Before sewing this one, I did 3 muslins and thought that I had it right (lol). This example is View B which I made from 100% cotton from Timmel Fabrics (now out of business).

Here's a view of the back. I like the tie in the back although it doesn't show very well in the photo.

Now I'm working on a skirt, BWOf 08-2008 #121. I have the invisible zipper in (my first) and hope to finish the lining today.

BWOF 02-2009 #118A

2009-06-07T15:44:00.002-07:00

Here's my version of BWOf 02/09 #118. I made it from a mustard cotton jersey from Wazoodle. At this point, I'm not sure if I like it or not. For a knit top, it took way too much time to make. The Burda instructions for the sleeve were confusing to me and the fit is not to my liking. I'm not sure if I need to add more ease or if this pattern is better suited to a smaller busted woman. I do like the basic design and may try it again at some point.

Definitely, the back needs a sway back adjustment here.

I never did figure out the Burda instructions and mainly used the tutorial by Dawn. I did finish the sleeve in different manner so that I could avoid "tunnel sewing". As Dawn pointed out, the most critical aspect is only sewing from notch #5 to notch #5 on the front and from notch #7 to notch #7 on the back. (You can see from the picture that I did some ripping. A bunch of lumps occur when sewing the seam at one time.)

View from the right side:
My next step was to sew from Notch 5 (Notch 7) to the end of the sleeve.

Then, I turned the inner sleeve to the inside, basted it to the shoulder seam, and topstitched.

Who needs to do puzzles to keep the mind working when there are pattern instructions to figure out? My greatest learning from this garment: I'll be sure that I can visualize the entire garment before putting it under the sewing machine. If I'm really confused like I was with this blouse, I always can sew a Mini Sample or stop be cocky and sew a muslin. I would have saved time with this project!

One Lovely Blog Award

2009-06-05T15:36:00.001-07:00

Thanks, Gwen for awarding me the "Lovely Blog Award". The rules, as follows, are to pass it on to bloggers new to your list.

Rules: 1) Accept the award, post it on your blog together with the name of the person who has granted the award, and his or her blog link. 2) Pass the award on to 5 other blogs that you've newly discovered. Remember to contact the bloggeers to let them know they have been chosen for this award.

So, I pass this award to these recent additions to my blog list:

PendleStitches
JosieLoves2Sew
TwoOnTwoOff
AnotherCreation
Charlene'sSewingAdventure

BTW, I need some help getting awards on my sideboard. Obviously, I don't have any trouble with pictures, etc. on my blog. I copy the URL from "properties" and paste it on the blog. When I try to add the URL to the Picture Gadget, google says it is invalid. Yes, I checked it: It's the same URL that I added to the blog. Does anyone who uses google have a clue what I'm doing wrong? The other sewing bloggers don't seem to have a problem. (It is high time I did some housekeeping on my sidebar!) Thanks

May Didn't Bring Many Flowers

2009-06-02T07:00:00.000-07:00

Here in Central Florida, there was no rain for weeks, but once it did start to rain it wouldn't stop. We lost lost half of our tomatoe crop and at least half (if not more) of the snap bean plants. We have some flowers - just not as many as usual this time of year. The view from my sewing room is nice, but not as awesome as the picture on this blog. Mother Nature is settled down a bit now. The temp is in the eighties with afternoon thunder storms.

My May sewing experience is about the same as the weather. The first of the month I just couldn't get going on any sewing. There was vacation catch-up, lots of fun times with family and friends, and a bunch of mini crises. Most of the time, I can work around those things. It just didn't happen the beginning of the month. I was a lot like most of the Fashion Show Contestants: the one who couldn't use a rotary cutter properly and the ones who pinned and glued garments together. Actually, I didn't use any glue (although I was tempted) and, certainly fixed the "messes" before wearing anything on my "fashion show runway"- the driveway. This was definitely a learning month once the sewing mojo kicked in (about the last week in May).When Burda says a design is easy to sew but more time consuming, forget the "easy" most of the time and remember the more time consuming. At any rate, I did finish two garments this month: BWOF 0209 #118A (a knit top) and KS 3620 (a woven blouse). The KS blouse as been in process for a while and was used as a fitting "experiment". I have the fit pretty close to the way I like it now with only a few tweaks for future sewing. Yep, that's it. I only completed two garments. I did cut out several garments that I'm excited about sewing. (That means I'll be doing a lot of sewing until I run into a problem!) I'll get pictures of the two garments and post about them later in the week.

My stash did increase this month. I blame the Fabric Mart Memorial Day Sale and Carolyn's post that showed some gorgeous yellow linen. Yes, I bought some yellow linen for a dress or jacket. A few other fabrics jumped into my shopping cart for a total of 10.25 yards. I only used 4 yards of fabric this month. Storage is becoming a definite problem. I sure hope the Sewing Problem Grinch stays away from my sewing room. I need garments and storage space!

Sewin' is Goin' on in Florida

2009-05-19T15:57:00.000-07:00

To answer your question, Gwen, there's a lot of sewing going on down in Florida. Debbie, from Tampa on the Florida West Coast, has been sewing up a storm. She's made some cute tops and is working on fitting jean capris. Gigi, from South Florida, recently has made a couple of tops (one was originally a dress with a too tight skirt - guess it happens to all of us!) and a quilt. All of these were made from fabrics that certainly brightened my day. As for Rose (me!) from the Florida East Coast, I've been mostly playing. I've spent a lot of time seeing plays, eating out (opps-diet time!), and generally spending time with family and friends. Saturday, I watched my oldest grandson perform hip hop and acro in 4 recital programs starting at 1:00 and ending 9:30. Oh, the things that grandmas do! I enjoyed a lot of the performances from some talented students and the younger ones were so cute. Of course, my grandson, who is a real ham, did an awesome job!! I did watch the costumes closely but didn't get any ideas although some of the embellishments might work on regular garments. After sitting all that time (30 minutes is usually my limit), I was exhausted on Sunday. I wanted to sleep as long as I sat on Saturday. I didn't do that but I was moving slowly all day. I did work on clearing out my closet. Actually, I needed hangers for my current projects. It was silly to buy new ones when those unwearable clothes are taking up space in the closet. I actually threw away a bathrobe that was spot worn and so stained that it wasn't even usuable for a rag. I have a new, perfectly good robe that is so long that I trip on it. I got that hemmed - finally. I hate to mend, but don't want to make a robe right now. Silly, that I was putting off such a simple task! I discovered that I really need a couple of pairs of shorts and some more knit tops. I must get to those before too long. Also, it was clear that I need a "little white dress" (Tim Gunn's little black dress: Florida Style). Every summer I try to make one really challenging garment. Last summer it was a coat that didn't get past the muslin stage. This year I was thinking of trying V1087. There are two problems with that: (1) I need to do a dress that I know I can finish and (2) I don't have any white knit fabric. I have some ivory linen that would be perfect for a different dress.

Finally, yesterday I got down to some serious sewing. The Kwik Sew 3620 blouse is hemmed and buttonholes marked. I thought I had some red buttons but they seem to be hiding somewhere or I never bought them. I do have some white buttons that would work. I just have to decide whether to use them or go buy buttons. Here's the blouse on Dolly:

That strip down the front is masking tape to mark the buttonhole placement. I'm not sure how well that is going to work, but I'll try it this time.

Until I make the "big button decision", I'm working on BWOF 2/09 #118. Silly me, I believed that I understood the Burda instructions. I thought that it was a simple top until I got to the sleeves. I did a big "duh" and went to PatternReview to see if anyone else had made this pattern. Bless you, PR! Everyone else who reviewed it had some confusion. Fortunately, Dawn did a tutorial review. I had to read her review and the instructions side by side several times until I thought (lol) that I understood them. Here's my progress:

The sleeves start at the gathered section and, then, are sewed to a bottom section of the bodice. At first, I thought it was silly to gather a knit sleeve. Then, I pinned it on and realized that there was no way I could ease in all that fabric. Actually, I pretty proud of the gathering. I use gathering a lot and have tried multiple ways to get it smooth and even. I even bought a gathering foot for my machine. I never could get that right. I'm using Shannon Gifford's method of sewing 3 rows of basting stitches. One row is at the 5/8" seam line and two rows 1/4" on either side. That means removing basting as one row shows but it seems to hold the fabric in place.

Here's a picture of my neck edge:

I'm continuing to work on perfecting this task. This time I adapted Sarah Veblen's method to the way I attached the binding in a previous post. Instead of leaving one shoulder opened and pinning the binding on, I sewing both shoulders. I walked the binding around, stretching it a lot at the "gap places" in the back and around the lower front. I cut off quite a bit from the length recommended in the pattern. Then, I quartered the binding and blouse and sewed it on - stretching a bit more at the back where I tend to gap a lot. It worked very well. This method saves the aggravation of trying to sew that second shoulder seam even and went much faster. For the first time, I used my coverstitch machine to sew down the binding. I'm finally learning to control the stitching with my coverstitch machine! I think it turned out pretty well. Now, I have to continue on with the top and hope that I really do understand what I'm doing. You'll see the results soon!

Gotta Have New Spring Shoes

2009-05-12T10:18:00.000-07:00

I may be on a fabric diet but that doesn't apply to shoes! Here are my wardrobe additions:

These Naturalizer sandals look brown in the picture, but they actually are olive. The shoes are a perfect match for the olive suit that I'm going to make this month (lol). At least, I've traced the BWOF patterns.

Geez, the camera is not doing a great job of showing color! These Softspots shoes are red. I have lots of red in my wardrobe and might do some red dress sewing this summer. I'd love to make a red linen jacket, but that requires a fabric purchase (We won't go there!).

Finally, a true-t0-color photo! These shoes are Clarks Indigo in champagne. The heels are much higher than I usually wear, but they are the most comfortable shoes I own. With such a basic color, I can wear them with lots of things.

I made it through the Fabric Mart sale without buying fabric. That may be a first. Fortunately, I spent Mother's Day with the family at Animal Kingdom. I had a wonderful time but was too tired Sunday night to fabric shop. You know that is tired! There was lots of stuff going on Monday. I did a little sewing and put my computer on sleep to avoid temptation.

Lately, I don't know where the time goes. I'm working on a print blouse that only needs to be hemmed and buttons/buttonholes added. If other things don't distract me too much, I should be able to finish that today. Also, I'm working on a mustard knit BWOF top. I had to take a break from fitting those blouse sleeves!

I'm back to sewing and, hopefully, will have something completed to show soon.

April Review

2009-05-05T15:24:00.000-07:00

April showers didn't happen where I live. It's been so dry that we're having brush fires. Fortunately, we do have the May flowers because we stand there with the hose watering.

Even though this April was busy with tax returns due and a week of vacation (yea!!!), I did manage to complete 5 garments. Two of the tops that I made I love. The BWOF 2/09 #108B is a great pattern that I'll make many times. The Sandra Betzina V8151 definitely is going in the TNT drawer. In this picture, I'm standing on the balconey of the condo where we stayed on vacation. I'm ready to go out to dinner and love wearing my new top. Most of the vacation we just sat and watched the ocean or went for walks in the sand. The water and the beach were as wonderful as they look. Well, back to sewing. The other garments that I finished were a KS 3338 T Shirt (a TNT), the LH Bergman Blouse (It's too hot to wear wool crepe now!), and white twill LH Cruise pants. The twill pants winkle a lot more than I would like, but will be a summer basic until I replace them.

My stash reduction hopes did not occur in April. Honestly, I love my stash but really am running out of storage space. I purchased 14 yards of fabric and used 10 yards. So, my plan for May is NO Fabric Purchases. That's tough because there are some great sales, but I must show a bit of discipline.

During vacation, I did think a lot about sewing and planned numerous projects. I finally located a couple of Ottobre Magazines and want to try some of their patterns. Lucky magazine had a month of clothes to wear. They aren't all mix and match, but a lot are. Spiegel has many wardrobe ideas and even has a survey to determine your "style". It was fun to go through their catalog and the wardrobe suggestions that they had for me. My style is "relaxed glamour" and the wardrobe suggestions are great. I'll be copying them soon and, fortunately, I have a lot of fabric that will work. You can check it out at http://www.spiegel.com/.

I'm aiming for 6 garments in May-really want to reduce that stash and have some new clothes to wear. At the same time, I know that the month is not starting out very well in the sewing world. I'm trying to finish a blouse and almost put it in the "wadder can" several times. I ripped the sleeves out and reinserted one of them this afternoon. Tomorrow, I'll try it on and see if it looks at least acceptable, get it finished or consider it a learning experience. I'm ready to move on to lots of exciting things on my sewing list!!

Dressing Up: Florida Beach Style

2009-04-24T06:42:00.000-07:00

I live in Central Florida, 30 minutes from Daytona Beach and 45 minutes from Orlando. DeLand is a small (but growing) college town where the most commonly seen shoes are flip flops. The standard summer dress for women, apparently, is cutoff shorts and tops that resemble t-shirts. That attire is often seen in nice restaurants on the beach side. I can understand that many tourists just want to relax here and "dressing up" is not on their agenda. That's fine as it certainly helps our local economy! I still have my Virginia (where I was born) dress code and can't seem to let that go. Sooo, I wear flip flops but only at the beach. Since we are going on a beach vacation, I wanted to make something to wear for an evening out for dinner. Of course, most on the time will be spent playing in the waves and strolling the beach. Here's my "dress up" top, V8151, made from 100% cotton knit from Wazoodle. Funny, my Florida top is made with fabric from a Canadian internet source!

The sleeves fit better on me than on Dolly here. I made Dolly's arms a little too fat at the top. I made a pair of white twill pullon pants to wear with it. I'm set for "date night".

I'm continuing my quest for the perfect t-shirt. This Sandra Betzina pattern has darts on the side which help the fit at the top. It looks a bit more formal to me. I guess I'm just not accustomed to tops that fit! I still like my TNT Kwik Sew pattern so I'll be making both patterns in the future I'm sure!

Well, my outfit is made, the suitcase located, and new paperbacks purchased. I think it's time to pull out the bathing suit and, maybe, clean up the house a bit :)

The First BWOF Garment

2009-04-20T09:12:00.000-07:00

I finished my first BWOF garment and I know it will the first of many. This one is BWOF, 02/09, #108B. I made a size 40 with no pattern adjustments just to see how it fit. Actually, the fit is pretty good. Next time I make it I'll add a tad to the side seams for more ease, add 1/2" to the shoulder to bring it closer to the neck (bra straps tend to peek out), and include a sway back adjustment which is obvious in the picture of the back. I usually do a sway back adjustment but sometimes can get away without it in a knit. This fabric was purchased from GorgeousFabric and was a joy to sew. It is a polyester mesh with tiny sequins. You can see the fushia sequins if you look closely. Once I cut out the top I honestly questioned my sanity. Here I am with a new pattern from a source I had never used, sewing on mesh for the first time, and sewing on fabric with sequins that I expected to give me a fit. Two hours later, I had a big smile on my face! Sewing on a good quality mesh is not hard at all. Surprisely, the sequins did not cause much of a problem. I only had to remove a couple to turn the hem evenly. I love when a sewing project actually works well!

Next up is a floral knit top and white pants to wear during our beach vacation. Hopefullly, I'll have a post about these later in the week.

Copy Cat T Shirt

2009-04-15T14:35:00.000-07:00

I love reading about sewing ideas that make garments look more professional and make sewing easier. I sew and make a lot of t-shirts - some plain and some a little fancier. When I read Karen's blog post about attaching the neckband I had to try it. Yes, I heard about it before but I never read it explained so clearly. It's so easy to get caught up in pattern instructions without realizing there is a better way. I sometimes have gapping in the neckband, particularly in the back. All she did was sew use the pattern neckband, folded it in half right side out, pressed it flat, sewed one shoulder seam, pinned the band stretching it slightly around the neck, and was left with quite a bit of band at the end. Then, she sewed the neckband on and, then, the other shoulder. When I tried this method, I had my band pinned on and checked her post to see if I was following the method. Well, it looked so much like hers that I had to take a picture. Hey, anything I sew that looks like an advanced sewer, I dance a jig and take a picture. Here are the pictures which look similar to Karen's. This technique definitely is going into my bag of tricks!

The Marathon Record Setting Blouse

2009-04-09T09:20:00.000-07:00

The Loes Hinse Bergman Blouse is as finished as it is going to get. The fit is not too bad, compared to my other attempts at fitting shoulder princess seams. There are a number of things that I know that I will fix the next time around. Yes, there will be another of this blouse - just not right away. Any constructive comments about the fit will be welcome! Part of the difficulty is the wool crepe fabric seemed to stretch as I fiddled with it. Once I feel more comfortable with the fit, wool crepe would be fine. My next go round probably will be in a polyester before using any nicer fabric. I made this blouse as a part of Sarah Veblen's "All about Set-in Sleeves and Armholes" class on Pattern Review. She helped a lot, but the class was just before the Christmas holidays. There was too much stuff going on. I didn't finish it before the end of the class. I sure wish I had as she is so helpful. Anyway, this blouse set a number of records for me.

1. The longest period of time I worked on 1 garment (4 months) without sending it to the UFO shelf or wadder file. I finished a number of other garments in the process, but kept coming back to the blouse. Wow! Most sewers finish a coat in less time!

2. The only time that I continued working on a project that I was sick of sewing. I love sewing - hope this is the first and only time. Yet, I know it may happen again as I take on new challenges.

3. The happiest I've ever been to finish a project.

4. The first time I've gotten a woven princess seam garment to actually look like a blouse.

5. The most muslins made (3 including many rips and resew). I should have made one more!

6. The most learning about reading a muslin. Now I can see things in a garment muslin (or finished project) and understand a lot more about what is happening in relation to my body.

Here are pictures of the blouse:

The pants that I'm wearing are V1051 made in cotton twill.

Closing Shot:

During my hectic month of March, I finished another quilt block: the last block for an applique wall hanging. I'd like to finish the quilt as there is a big, blank spot in sewing room. Every now and then I hear the wall crying to be covered!

Is it Spring?

2009-04-03T12:07:00.000-07:00

Actually, it feels more like summer around here, with temperatures in the 80s. It will soon be Spring in my sewing room anyway. Here's my 4 garment plan for Spring 2009:

I tried to keep the plan fairly simple. It will be my first time using BWOF patterns which should be fun. The major new learning will be inserting an invisible zipper - something I must learn to do if my sewing is going to go to the next level.

I still have 3 garments to finish before I can begin on my plan in earnest. Unless a bunch of unforeseen things happen, I should be able to finish them in the next week. The garments are a knit t-shirt (I wear a lot of those), the LH blouse, and a KS blouse. The t-shirt is quick and the LH blouse only needs the sleeve hems and button(s). The blouse is a little more involved, but the hard part of fitting is done.

March Just Marched on By

2009-03-31T13:47:00.000-07:00

Well, it's the last day of March. There's not much to report as far as finished projects go. I finished the caramel knit "pajama pants" and a pair of brown twill V1051 pants that I love. Those pants take a little more time to complete but the fit and feel of the pants are great. As I think about my goal of completing an 11 garment SWAP wardrobe for winter, I think it is an unrealistic goal for me. Certainly, I finished more than 11 garments since I started in October - just not all in the wardrobe. This probably will be the last full SWAP that I plan. Planning is important and, certainly, I agree with the SWAP concept. The great news is now I have some good, wearable basic clothes that form the foundation of my wardrobe. I just don't stay focused on an 11-garment plan. This year I've finished 7 garments, have a blouse to hem/sew on buttons, and another blouse muslin-fitted and cut out. I should get those two blouses finished in the next week or so. As for the other 2 blouses in the plan, they probably won't get done right away. I've done my 4 garment Spring Plan (will post that later) and have a number of other things I'm excited about sewing. The bottom line is: I have to be excited or I don't stay focused! On the positive side of March activity, I've traced patterns, pretreated fabric, and finished all the tax returns, including mine! Usually, I'm working pretty close to the April 15 deadline. I'm hoping that life gives the sewing time that I'm dreaming about right now!! I'll do what I can to make that happen.

Just so I have something to show, here's a picture of the last major quilt that I made. It was a challenge and took 3 months of pretty steady sewing. If you look closely, my beloved cat, Harry, is sitting on the corner of the bed. He's mostly white so he blends in with the quilt. He's 14 years old and becomes more loving everyday. He's such a sweetheart.

Pants Party

2009-03-22T10:38:00.000-07:00

Well, the "party" for the past two weeks wasn't particularly exciting. I've been working on tax returns and the quest for finding reasonable health insurance. At least half of my time was spent waiting for the computer to locate tax info I needed and hanging on the phone to speak to someone about insurance (usually involves 20 or so options and talking to just about everyone in the particular company's office). I am atypically obsessive about both of these topics - gotta have the least, legal taxes possible and the lowest cost insurance with the most benefits for me. I have "almost finished" (two words you see a lot in this blog for various reasons) with the taxes - just waiting for info from one of my family darlings. I've made the decision about health insurance and just have one (I hope!) loose end to tie up on Monday. My sewing machine is next to my computer so while I was waiting on the computer or listening to telephone holding music, I sewed. Of course, the sewing had to be the kind that didn't require a lot of thought so I could stop and start. Sewing pants was my answer there.

The first pair was Vogue 1061 which are described as "fitted, pull-on pants, above the ankle have waistband and stitched hems". I would describe them more as Pajama Party Pants. I made them in a carmel RPL doubleknit. The fabric is the greatest thing about the pants: It is very comfortable. The fit was not very good. Of course, that could be corrected but, hey, I already have two TNT pull-on pants patterns that fit well. These were one-seam pants. I think I need two seams to adjust for fit. I dunno. I know a lot of people love one-seam pants. The above ankle length looked like my pants got caught in an over-heated dryer. The look was comical so I made them longer. Also, I couldn't quite wrap my head around putting a waistband on pull-on pants. I can pull them on all right, but elastic waists are more comfortable and less time-consuming to sew. The bottom line is I won't wear these p.j.-looking pants outside the house except, maybe, to go walking for excercise. Hey, the whole idea of this sewing gig is to have clothes that fit and look polished (that's the goal anyway). Here's a picture of the pants:

The other pants at my "party" are turning out much better. There's a lot to be said for TNT patterns. There is a brown twill pair from V1051 that is "almost finished" - just have to finish the waist band, sew on hooks & eyes, and hem it. I also worked on a couple of pull-on pants from Loes Hinse: a white pair and denim pair. I added back pockets to the denim pants and used a couple of decorative stitches from my machine. Here are the pockets before attaching:

Next up if my sewing goes close to as planned: the Vogue brown twill pants and the LH Bergman Blouse

The Sisterhood

2009-03-08T14:29:00.000-07:00

I've felt a part of the blog sisterhood for several months now. Thanks so much to BackPorchBlessings and Jackie for recognizing me. I am amazed at the sense of community that is present throughout the blogs. I don't have a sister of my own although I do have 2 sisters-in-law who I love dearly. I now have many sewing and crafting sisters. This award means a lot. I love It!!!

The rules of the award:

1. Put the logo on your blog or post

2. Nominate at least 10 blogs which show great Attitude and/or Gratitude!

3. Be sure to link to your nominees within your post.

4.Let them know that they have received this award by commenting on their blog.

5. Share the love and link to the person from whom you received your award.

There are many, many blogs that meet the criteria of great "attitude and/or gratitude" and many, many bloggers with whom I feel a sense of sisterhood. Many of them are like big sisters because I learn from them and am inspired by them. Most of these big sisters already have received the award so I won't list them. They are listed in the sidebar link of blogs I read. My biggest concern in listing just 10 bloggers is the ommitting someone who deserves the award. My list includes sewers as well as other crafters whose blogs I enjoy.

Angelia at SewMuchtoSew

Shannon at Frogsinabucket

Alicia at AliciaJeanae

Becky at SewandSo

Julia at Julia'sSewingBlog

Michaela at TheCraftFarm

Amanda at Inexplicablecandor

Shawna at WhatwouldYouDowitha25HourDay?

Jennifer at FancyThat

Salinda at Salinda'sBlog

S2971: A Great Top!

2009-03-03T14:18:00.001-08:00

I don't care much for the picture with my mouth opened - giving photography instructions to DH. I do love the blouse though. Saturday was a warm day so I had a chance to wear it. The top is cool and comfortable. The fabric is a RPL from Sewing Studio. I didn't make any pattern alterations which is unusual for me. Next time I make it I will shorten it a bit and take a little off the width off the band so that it will hang straighter. Actually, I don't have any real problem with it as is and received lots of compliments when I wore it. We went to my GS#1's basketball game and, then,out to dinner. I plan to make the version with longer sleeves next. Actually, this white blouse was a wearable muslin that I figured I could wear doing errands or around the house. I had no idea that I would be able to wear it so soon or would like it so much.

Well, this blouse is garment #4 for February. That's not bad for a short month with so many other things happening. It was one of those months where every time I started to do something I found a "worm". For example, I spent about 5 hours piecing together the cost of stocks I sold. I am quite organized with taxes and had all my costs and other stock info together in a file folder. Unfortunately, I kept them in a file cabinet in DH's office. One day he decided to get rid the file cabinet and pitched everything in it that HE didn't need. Fortunately, I caught him in the act and retrieved lots of critical stuff but missed the stock folder. That's the last time anything I really need goes anywhere close to his black hole of an office. I won't bore you with the other joys that I experienced, but trust me, I'm amazed that I actually got any sewing done.

March is a new month. Spring is acoming! Of course, there's frost on the ground here and lots of snow in the Northeast I hear. I still have tax returns to finish but, hopefully, I cleared out the problems last month. While I'm thinking of Spring, I am trying to use some discipline to complete my winter wardrobe plan. I'm working on a couple of pairs of slacks and trying to finish the Loes Hinse Bergman Blouse that I started in December. I have the left sleeve in with an acceptable fit. It's really become the blouse that won't get finished!

February Projects

2009-02-24T09:47:00.000-08:00

I always like to see photos of garments photograped on a "real body" Here are photos of me wearing my recent projects.:

I still hope to finish at least one more top before the month is over.

Here's a picture of me with our dinner guests last week - Alice and Margaret. Alice is 98 years old and Margaret is 93 years old. Wow! They look good and sharp as a tack mentally!

Finishing is Fun!

2009-02-16T17:36:00.000-08:00

After my poor garment completion rate last month, I finally focused on finishing some projects. It feels great. I'm proud of my discipline because I had a good case of Spring fever (still do, to tell you the truth). While I'm sewing on dark colors, I'm dreaming of white, brights, and light flowing fabric. The weather has been awesome - sunshine and not too hot. I did work in the yard Saturday and spent Sunday afternoon playing with grandchildren in the park. I still managed to get some garments finished. They are pretty much basic, wear-often type of clothes. Here are my results:

This skirt is Vogue 8455, View B, made from suede microfiber. The skirt is a mock wrap, straight skirt, mid-knee length. It was quick and easy to make. Actually, it would have been easier if I had used lighter weight fabric. I like the angled pleats but I eliminated them from the underskirt. This fabric was hard to press and the pleats on the underskirt would have been impossible - plus I don't need all that extra bulk in the tummy area. Hummm.....noticed looking at the photo that I still have some pressing to do at the waistband. (Photos can be helpful to show details that I miss!) The only other adjustment I made was to shorten the skirt 1 inch. While I like the skirt, I doubt that I'll make it again. I have a bunch of skirt patterns that I want to make.

This cardigan is V1058, view B, made from cotton sweater knit. This is my first attempt at sweater knit and found it, surprisely, easy to sew. The cardigan is another easy-to-sew pattern. I like the way the inside is finished. Actually, the only problem I had in construction was mixing up the right side and the wrong side. Before I sewed the side seam, they looked similar in the design and the fabric. Here's a picture of the wrong side:

While I definitely will wear the cardigan, I'm not crazy about it and doubt that I'll sew it again. I much prefer the standard classic cardigan sweater.

I think everyone who sews knits has made the Jalie 2806 top. My version is in cotton interlock with the gathered foldover neckline. I love everything about it and will make it many times with different sleeves. I also want to try the ruched front. I made this top in a couple of hours. (At my turtle pace sewing, that's a quick sew project.) I shortened the shoulders and reduced the length of the hem line and sleeves. Otherwise, I made it per the pattern. This is my first Jalie pattern. I found the instructions easy to follow and even brushed up on my French which is written next to the English.

Now, I want to spend all day in my sewing room. I sure wish that I had a house elf to do my chores!!

Working on the Basics

2009-02-05T11:05:00.000-08:00

Time seems to move so slow in February and, then, it flies away. I can't believe how long it has been since I last posted. We've had company for several days and there were all these odd things that required attention. Anyway, I have been able to work in some sewing. I am really bored with my winter wardrobe, but I know much of that is just the time of year. It's been cold (in the twenties - really coooold for Florida) and dreary in the "Sunshine State". I keep wanting to start working on a new project - working on my piping skills, making a jacket, making a coat, making a pair of jeans. I know that I have to finish my basic wardrobe first even though discipline is not a lot of fun. I'm a "mood sewer" which means have a lot of projects going at once. I know that I have to stick with items in my plan regardless. Somehow, I have lost the instructions for the pair of pants that I have in process. I don't need them except for the fly zipper. I've made fly zippers a couple of times, but still have to follow the instructions step by step. I guess I'll have to use one of those sewing books in my library. *sigh* Right now, my sewing machine is at the Bernina Dealer for her annual maintenance (3 months late). I get so sad looking at my empty sewing table! I do have several garments close to finish and one that I actually completed.

Here's the one garment that I did finish in January:

The pattern is B4347 and the fabric is a polyester knit. I really like this blouse. It fits well, is very comfortable, and fairly easy to sew.

Well, that's my pitiful completion for January. February should be much more productive since there are a number of garments that I have started and several that are in that "almost done" stage. I just have to dig in my heals and get that basic wardrobe finished.

Awards

2009-01-26T11:09:00.000-08:00

Thank you soooo much Angelia for nominating me for theKreativ Blogger award. The rules of this award are as follows:
1. Copy the award to your site.
2. Link to the person from whom you received the award.
3. Nominate 7 other bloggers.
4. Link to those on your blog.
5. Leave a message on the blogs you nominate.

I would like to pass this award to the following 7 other bloggers whose names I haven't seen listed yet and definitely deserve this award:

1. Gaylen at GMarie
2. Alicia at AliciaJeanae
3. Shawna at Whatwouldyoudowith25hourdays?
4. Shannon at FrogsinaBucket
5. Emily at ALittleSewingStudioonTrowbridgeSt
6. Marji at FiberArtsAfloat
7. Adrienne at RealLife:Live&Unscripted

There are many, many other excellent sewing blogs out there. Some of them I haven't discovered yet. I read the post from Carolyn who broke the rules of the Kreativ Blogger award and nominated everyone who read her blog and has their own blog. She said that we all could display the award and state that the nomination was from her. Carolyn really understands that feeling of anticipation as the awards are posted. So, I decided to create my own award. My award is the Hug Award. This award does not have anything to post on a blog because it is just a very special feeling that is sent through cyberspace. It can be passed on to someone else, but there is no rule that requires it. This award is not only for excellent blogging and excellent sewing skills. This award is for understanding and encouraging the newbies in blogging/sewing and making them feel special. So, Carolyn is the first recepient. Thanks for being there in blogland, Carolyn.

Dreams of Spring

2009-01-20T13:47:00.000-08:00

It's sooooo cold here. I'm sure that most you won't think that 52 degrees is that cold, but we do have heavy wind. The wind chill counts, right? We are expecting a hard freeze tonight and tomorrow night. I've been out in this dreadful weather covering plants, flowers, and herbs. The good news is I have flowers all year but it is a bit of work to protect them during our cold days. Please remember that I was outside in 80 degree weather on Sunday so this is quite a drop in temperature!

It's definitely time to think of Spring. That always improves my spirits. With each new issue of Vogue Pattern Magazine, I pick my 3 favorite new patterns. Sometimes I make them and sometimes I don't. These are my picks for Spring 2009:

V1092 I love this skirt, don't care much for the top.

V1087 I love this dress. It's the perfect LWD for my Spring/Summer Florida lifestyle. The only negative (that I can see now) is the advanced fitting and sewing skills required to make it. I'll see how my sewing goes. I'd like to take on the challenge of making it.

V1099 The jacket definitely will go on my Spring sewing list, not so sure about the pants.

The Blouse Saga Continued

2009-01-14T15:11:00.000-08:00

The three weeks that I designated to work on sleeve fitting turned into six weeks. In the process, I have stuck myself with pins a thousand times (got my ear once really well), used 1/2 a bolt of muslin, a roll of pattern paper, 6 rolls of tape and 2 sharpies. I kid you not - that's not much of an exageration. This weekend DH was away at a conferance so I planned a blouse fitting marathon. I almost got the 2 muslins finished after doing a detailed study of my arms. Isn't that exciting? Actually, I did do my weight lifting-toning tape once. The only incentive I need is taking a close look at me. One of the blouse muslins fit perfectly -- no wrinkles (well, maybe one or two), the sleeves were smooth and fit my arms. Sooo--I quickly went for my sharpie which was 6 inches away - wanted to mark those seams right away. The only problem was that I couldn't move. Actually, I created a pin orgie. Pins were flying everywhere as I tried to move my arms. My "Armor Blouse Fitting" was lost forever. I came to the conclusion that I fitted it too tight. Ha! I did some smart thinking there. Unfortunately, I lost so many pins that I couldn't just ease the seams looser. I was back to the drawing board. I had to zigzag more fabric on the sleeve muslin and start fitting again. By the time DH came home Sunday afternoon, I had it. There was no more working on blouse muslins. I didn't sleep well Sunday night which is unusual for me. I kept trying to figure out where I went wrong. Monday was a new day. I started by really looking at those arms of mine. I have such skinny arms that it never occured to me that I might have large biceps. I guess all those swimming laps did something. The very top of my arm is pretty big in proportion to the rest of the arm. I finished both muslins on Monday. I finally accepted that they are as good as I can get them right now. I'm sure that I'll continue to consider the sleeve/bodice fit issue for the rest of the year. We'll just see how those blouses look in real fabric. I'm tired of sewing ugly muslin fabric. Enough is enough! Actually, I did pull out a jacket pattern with a two piece sleeve. I'll be trying that in the near future, but not right away. I've started sewing one of the blouses and hope to have it finished this week.

During one of my breaks, I read Shannon's post about learning and perfecting a new skill every year. That post got me to thinking. Shannon is restudying calculus this year. I'm not going to do that - never took calculus and never wanted to take it. I do have a whole laundry list of things that I would like to learn. My sewing skills goals will remain top priority, but I'd like to do something else to add some variety. There are periods of time when I just get burned out with sewing. Right now, my choices for 2009 are learning Adobe Photoshop Elements, Knitting, and Zumba. I'll make a decision after at least one blouse is done.

This weekend I did pull out the skirt that I cut out earlier. I sewed a bit on it - just had to work with some real fabric. This fabric is sueded microfiber. I thought that it would be hard to sew, but was pleasantly surprised. Ironing is impossible because the iron leaves marks even with a press cloth and low heat. I sure am glad that I tested it first. Often, I forget that step. I have to hold the iron above the fabric, steam it and finger press. I didn't get very far but I'm happy with the way the pleats fall. They are on an angle so I had some concern about the microfiber fabric. Please ignore my sloppy tailor tacks. I can be accurate with tailor tack markings but don't have the patience to do them neatly.

Here's a picture of one of my sleeve muslins. There are a couple of things that I learned that are so helpful to me in fitting. The first I learned from Marji I mark the center and horizontal lines and, then sew over them with a basting stitch. It only takes seconds to do and I easily can see if the garment is hanging straight. The second I read in a magazine somewhere. I put a couple of round sticky dots (from office supply stores) on the wrong side of the fabric. I put more than one because sometimes the dots fall off. That way I don't have to think a lot about the right and wrong side and avoid sewing a right side to a wrong side. Ask me how I know about that possibility!

I'm off to sew some blouse seams. Yea!!

Bloggers are Terrific!

2009-01-05T14:51:00.000-08:00

Thanks to all of you who gave me suggestions for my animal print fabric. All of them are great with many ideas that I would never have considered. I plan to use several of them in the future. Meanwhile, I am still plodding away at my blouse muslins. The three weeks that I planned to work on sleeve fitting has turned into 6 weeks. I'm still not done, but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I've fitted the bodices for the princess seam blouse and the side-dart blouse. The left sleeve is done for the princess seam blouse. The right sleeve is giving me a bit of a challenge. I'm so assymetrical that I have to fit both sides - double the fun (lol). During breaks, I've cut out a skirt, a knit top, and am close to finishing another knit top. This fitting process is so tedious that I have to stop and get back to it in an hour or two - sometimes the next day! Hopefully, this will all be worth it although I'm sure that I'll be tweaking the fit for some time. Anyway, I should have some things to show soon!

The Past and the Future

2008-12-28T07:59:00.000-08:00

It's the time of year to look back at 2008 accomplishments. While I did a lot of positive things related to my sewing passion, I did not start the year very well. I copied goals from one of the amazing seamstresses in blogland. What was I thinking? Did I think that would make me sew as well as she does? I do know better. Now, they are good goals but they were not good goals for me. I did a good job of ignoring them. Here's a review so I won't repeat that mistake in 2009.

1. I will sew mainly from stash. I will allow myself to purchase 1 yard of fabric for each 5 yards that I sew up. I helped the economy with my extensive fabric purchases. I even know the psychology of this goal. It's like a diet where someone vows not to eat pizza (or something else they love) for an entire year. All they think about is pizza and are likely to eat lots of pizza. Portion control is the answer, not denial or unrealistic expectations. This was not a good goal for me.

2. I will test drive all my sewing machine feet that I have not used in the past year. I did use 3 of the feet that I hadn't used in 2007, but only because I needed them for projects. I'd like to think that I would do samples, exploring multiple uses, and put them neatly in a notebooks. That sounds nice but it is not likely to happen.

3. I will use patterns more than once and develop some TNTs. I did use several patterns that are now TNT. I actually sewed one of them twice.

4. I will sew at least every other day, paying attention to details. I did that one with very few exceptions. This is a silly goal for me. Of course, I sew as often as life allows. I might as well say that I will get at least one hour sleep per night.

5. I will sew at least 5 basic T-shirts for me and sew at 1 T-shirt, long sleeve shirt and p.j. bottoms for hubbie. I did sew 1 basic t-shirt for me and one embellished t-shirt. I really would like to sew t-shirts for hubbie. He wears them all the time - a quick easy project once the fitting is done. I need to be able to sew a quality long sleeve woven shirt for myself before I venture off to sewing for others. I don't know where the p.j. bottoms came from but, yes, sewing pjs for hubbie would be a nice thing to do - donno if I'll do it.

6. I will sew 12 BWOF garments. I studied the magazines and picked out many garments that I would like to sew. This one will probably happen in 2009.

7. I will sew 8 vintage designer patterns. I bought the patterns - 'nuf said.

8. I will embroider at least one garment. The embroidery machine is still packed away. I'll use it when I'm ready. I've made numerous embroidered quilts and some embroidered garments. I believe that I still know how to use it.

9. I will learn the basic functions of My Label. This goal is mine. I did it. I have ML tunic and pants patterns. The pants pattern was worth the price of the program. The blouse and jacket patterns simply do not compute even though my Bernina dealer measured me twice. Yep, my top does not compute. I know that I entered the measurements correctly after checking them numerous times. I'll just have to do blouses and jackets the old fashioned way.

The actual number of garments completed is embarrassing - only 24, using 56 yards of fabric. Also, there are a lot of UFOs that are almost complete. (I'm the queen of "almost done".) Actually, I have done better in the UFO area - most of them are frustrated wearable muslins. A few I stopped working on because I entered a contest or the season changed.

There are lots of positives in the sewing area from 2008. I feel very comfortable sewing with knits now and even used my coverstitch machine for hems. I can fit pants and skirts with minimal effort (There'll usually be some fitting issues with a new pattern.). I have a fitted shoulder seam princess blouse muslin and a fitted side-dart blouse muslin. I've done fly front zippers and a lapped zippers that look respectable. My bound button holes and welt pockets are okay but need work for the professional look that I want.

GOALS FOR 2009

Each season I will make at least 4 co-ordinated garments from my current stash. For winter, I will finish the planned 11 garment SWAP (in process) by March 31. I figure the best way to handle my fabric buying addiction is to work on projects from my stash.

I will check that I have enough run-around clothes (go to the store, soccer game, etc.) and fill in the gaps with mostly easy to sew garments.,

In the beginning of the year, I will focus on polishing basic skills and progress with new techniques. By the end of the year, I will make at least one tailored jacket and/or coat. I really want to make a coat and won't feel like a real seamstress until I do.

I will play Tim Gunn: clean out my clothes and make some basic black and white garments.

I will improve my computer skills. At a minimum, I'll figure out what going on with my Sewing Reviews and complete a storyboard.

I have a whole list of things that I'd like to do (scrapbook, home dec, knitting, crocheting, etc. etc.) just in case my goal list doesn't keep me busy (lol)

Happy New Year!

Fitting and Fabric

2008-12-19T11:46:00.000-08:00

Well, I'm on round 3 of fitting my two blouse garments. They are getting there - slowly. At least I'll have lots of sewing practice by the time I get to fashion fabric. To ease the tedious task of working out these puzzles, I'm playing with my fabric instead of buying (How's that for discipline?). These are the two pieces of knit fabric I bought from Fashionista Fabric. Originally, the larger piece was planned for a dress and the smaller one for a top. Now, they don't know what they want to be when they grow up. IMO, they look so good together. Any ideas?

Merry Christmas! Happy Hanukkah! Happy New Year! Here's wishes that all your sewing, crafting, and other activities turn out wonderful!!!

Having Fits!!!

2008-12-08T13:04:00.000-08:00

Fitting muslins is about all the sewing that I have been doing lately. Since I've never sewn in a sleeve that looks professional, I decided to sign up for Sarah Veblen's class on set-in sleeves and armholes at Pattern Review. I have drafted a sleeve to my measurements but all the rest of my effort has been on fitting a bodice. I keep making muslins that are getting there but still have some traveling to do. Now, I thought that I could fit a bodice. Once I really looked at my attempts, I saw that I really can't. I even used the My Label fitting program patterns as a base. I am doing a blouse with a side dart (Muslins are not awful.) and a blouse with princess seams (so far nothing but disaster muslins). Thankfully, I have Sarah to help but she has to use photos for her suggestions. Sarah maintains that one has to have a good fitting bodice before one has a good fitting sleeve. That makes sense and probably is a major factor in my sleeve problems. Once I get muslins that fit (pleassssse), I'll post photos along with photos of my earlier attempts.

So, what do I do when I get really frustrated with muslins (having major fits!)? Well, I did stop and cut out a pair of pants. I didn't want to get back to sewing the sweater knit cardigan because I wouldn't want to stop. That worked pretty well. Then, I started having more fits on Cyber Monday. I made it through the Thanksgiving weekend fabric sales without buying anything. Unfortunately, (according to DH) or, fortunately, (according to my wardrobe plans), Fashionista Fabrics and GorgeousFabrics were having incredible sales. I was not strong enough to turn off the computer. I love what I bought!! I'll see if I can get some good photos and show you. If you are not familiar with these sites and want some eye candy, go check on what they have. Both companies have reasonable prices for high quality fabric. Now, I must get those muslins to fit! I don't want to ruin these fabrics!

Christmas Red for SWAP

2008-12-01T07:11:00.000-08:00

These pants are S4275, made from red cotton twill. They are the second completed item for the SWAP contest (sew-along for me). So far, I'm up to date with my plan to complete a minimum of 2 items per month for the contest. The first item was the brown knit top that I showed in an earlier post. These pants fit and I like them, but I probably won't make them again. I really like the fit and comfort of V1051. I chose this pattern because I wanted to do a lapped zipper. That's my new learning for this garment. Surprisely, the zipper went in very easily. I thought that it would be very difficult and procrastinated doing it. Love those kind of surprises - doesn't happen very often! Here's a picture of the zipper:
Actually, all the lines are straight - just hard to photograph flat.

I imagine that most people who read this blog are familiar with SWAP but maybe not. SWAP is "Sewing with a plan". The idea started with Lynn Cook in Stitches Magazine. This contest is sponsored by Stitcher'sGuild . BTW, that is a great sewing group on aritisanssquare. Membership is necessary but it's free. For this contest, 11 garments are required - sewing occurs between November 1, 2008 and April 30, 2009. The garments include a jacket (can be a cardigan), 6 tops, and 4 bottoms. The jacket must work with all garments and the tops must work with all the bottoms. For me, it's a great way to add to my wardrobe, have garments that can be worn together, and learn new sewing techniques (my own requirement). Here's the fabric that I am using:

Speaking of SWAP, I'd better get busy sewing. It's a new month. Wow! December already!!! I have 2 garments to make this month along with all the Christmas fun.

I belong to Group #3 of the SewCraftBlog!!!

2008-11-22T07:15:00.000-08:00

Yea! I belong to a sewing blog group as of this morning. I heard about the group from Linda. I'm a big joiner. I love the inspiration, encouragement, learning, and friendships from sewing groups. I already know that there are some awesome sewers in this group and other Sew Craft Blog groups. The groups are open to anyone who sews or crafts and wants to share and learn through blogging. To learn more, go to www.sewcraftblog.blogspot.com

McCall Cotton Skirt

2008-11-20T11:18:00.000-08:00

Well, I finished the skirt for the cotton contest. As usual, I finished the contest garment - just not by the deadline! At least my wardrobe doesn't care about the deadline. I no longer get concerned about it - just enjoy the encouragement from others participating in the contest and, of course, the finished garment. Here's the skirt:

I know I have a goofy expression. I was instructing DH on using the camera - guess it wasn't one of my "smiling days".

Project Details:

Pattern: McCall 5193

Fabric: 100% organic cotton from NearSeaNaturals. I absolutely love this fabric which was a joy to sew. It barely winkles, drapes well, and is sooooo comfortable.

Notions: 7" zipper, hook & eye, hem tape

Description: flared skirt, lower calf length has waistband and back zipper

I added 5" to the waist as there is hardly any difference between my hips and waist. Next time I make it I will take away 1" from the skirt gores. There was just too much ease putting on the waistband. I shortened the skirt by 8", 2" at the hip area and 6" at the lower area. I normally have to shorten a skirt anyway but this one hung almost to my ankles. I don't wear calf length skirts unless I wear boots (not a frequent thing in Florida) so I did my usual below the knee length. I reduced the flare just a tad. The design of the skirt is 8 gore but the gore sizes are different. I love gore skirts - the different sizes really gave this one a delightful "swing".

The top is the MyLabel T-Shirt made from rayon lycra knit - another very comfortable, soft fabric. (I could sleep in this outfit.) I got it into my head to add darts to the t-shirt to eliminate the folds around the sleeve. I'm still working on this t-shirt fit. The darts aren't quite right and now it is too tight. My friends think that I'm silly to be concerned about the fit of a t-shirt. Well, I wear them a lot and really want a well-fitted t-shirt. This shirt only takes about an hour to make so I plan to make quite a few of them - just vary the neck and trims so I don't get bored.

I've been sewing every minute I can grab (and some when I "should" be doing other things) so I'll have more finished garments to show in the weeks ahead.

The Joy of Sewing

2008-10-28T17:33:00.000-07:00

At last, I have something in common with Debbie Cook! It's not her amazing ability to fit and sew. No, it's her consideration of alternative titles for a blog post. I had trouble with this one. My alternative titles are:

1. How to Practice Your Use of Not-so-nice Words and Learn New Ones (probably the most accurate)

2. The McCall Vest (boring)

3. Picking the Worst Possible Pattern for Your Body (not something I would encourage)

I decided, finally, to stay positive. After all, I'm learning to sew. Learning new skills are part of the joy of sewing, but sometimes that is painful - especially when there are fitting issues.

All righty: I decided to make the vest from McCall 5193. I keep thinking that this is a Vogue Pattern because the fit was so difficult. Usually, I only have minor issues with McCall (in addition to my standard adjustments which I expect). Fortunately, I knew that I had to make muslin since it is a close fitting vest. Honestly, I think I could have drafted the pattern from scratch a lot faster. That muslin had so many tucks, fabric additions, etc. etc. that there was no way I could transfer all that "stuff" to the pattern. Finally, I got it to fit! I am proud of myself with that. So often, I just give up and go to some other pattern. I had this vest in my head and come h___ or high water I was going to do it. I ended up cutting the vest apart on the seam lines and tracing the muslin pieces on pattern paper. (The muslin fabric was flimsy (a mistake but I thought I might has a wearable muslin. lol). Here's a picture of my work in progress:

On the fabric, the white "thingys" are my fabric weights and the yellow stick dots show the piece and what side. Yes, I had to fit each side separately since I am assymetrical and it REALLY showed with this pattern. After I traced the fabric piece, I added the seam allowance. I'm accustomed to American patterns and didn't want to thread trace my stitching lines. I have cut out the vest and started sewing it. So far, it is going together well. That is the Joy of Sewing: learning new skills and meeting a challenge. I sure hope the sewing continues to go well so I can keep up the positive attitude.