Adios to summer and to Octtobre 05/08 #10

Around our house, summer officially ends once the Fall garden is planted. Well, the garden planting was finished this weekend. The temperature now is just 80 degrees. That's a cold front for us!!

I wanted to make a simple raglan sleeve t-shirt for my last summer garment. I have numerous patterns that met that criteria. Why did I pick the Octtobre 05/08 #10 jersey? Actually, I had a reason that would have been a good one if the pattern looked like the picture and line drawing. It had what looked like a slight amount of gathers around the neckline. Now, I know I could have looked at the pattern more closely and would have known that there was mucho ease in the front. I've made size 40 in Octtobre patterns before and they fit perfectly. I didn't stop to think about fit. That goes to show me that a tape measure should go on new patterns! I do think that I will remember that one!! This top has enough ease to make a great maternity top. At least it is comfortable. Both the top and the Hepburn pants wear pretty well. In these pictures, I had just returned from dinner with DH's sisters, my son and 2 grandchildren (ages 3 and 5). Normally, I would have been pretty rumbled. There is some "kiddie wear" but not a lot. I love this cotton knit fabric but it needed a different pattern! Here's what it looks like:

After the pictures were taken, I got an urge to see what the top would look like if I reversed it. I didn't think about being outside and took it off and put it on with the back in front. Our next door neigbor is quite elderly and don't think he could see anything even if he was looking. Oh well. If he saw anything, I gave him something new to talk about. Here's what the top looks like reversed:
In MHO, the front looks a lot better although it is still pretty full.

The back looks all right I think.

I apologize for the dark background but I have to take advantage of my photographer's availability. It wasn't that dark, but it was dusk. Oh well.

As for this top, I know I won't be making the pattern again. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the top. There are a number of options: recut and make into t-shirt, wear it for housecleaning (that means it won't be worn often), wad it, or give it to Goodwill (probably for an expectant mother). For now, I think I'll put it away with my summery clothes and decide next year. I'm ready for Fall sewing!!!

Chanel Jacket - 2 Trim

It's time for the fun part. I still haven't made a decision about the trim for the jacket. I could use the winter white or orange as a binding around the edges. The wool in both colors miters easily so either would work. I don't have any trim or ribbon that will work with the jacket fabric. Of course, I could go shopping! I kinda of like "that's it" feeling and it hasn't come yet. What do you think?

Hopefully, I can put scissors to fabric in the next few days.

Chanel Jacket 1

One of my sewing goals is to make a Chanel Jacket. I love the many versions that I have seen. When I read about ChanelSewAlong I just had to participate even though I joined the group late. After looking at numerous patterns, I decided to use KS 3258 for the first of many (I hope!!) chanel jackets.
I am going to make view B with long sleeves. I am still debating about putting in a zipper but I don't think that it will enhance the design. I certainly don't need it for most of the Florida winter. My muslin is a size S in the shoulder, neck, and armscyle area with a size M for the side seams. The only adjustment that I made was a 1/2" petite adjustment in the armscyle area.

I'm pleased with the fit for a first muslin. The adjustments that I think are needed are: raise the bust dart 1/4", add 1" to both sides of the front seam, and shorten the sleeves 1/2". I like the length where it is so I will add a hem allowance. The side looks pretty good to me and certainly the sleeves are the best fit I've ever done. I have toothpick arms so these narrow sleeves are wonderful to me. I wasn't very careful setting in the sleeves but they did go in easily.

The back fits all right as far as I can tell.Here are pictures with my hands on my hips. I think that is a way to check on ease. In the front view, I can see the horizontal lines on the left side so I know that they are straight. I marked the left pocket flap locations and will raise the top one a bit.

I've made the adjustments on the tissue and did a tissue fitting. That looks good. I am concerned that the front seams don't meet at the top and the bottom. They fit at first and then fall when I move. That was not a problem with the tissue fitting. I'm hoping that adding facings will take care of that.

I welcome any comments and suggestions that anyone has. I'm planning to do a second muslin to check my adjustments. I know the fit will never be perfect with my body but I want to get as close as possible.

Loes Hinse Hepburn Pants

The LH Hepburn Pants deserve a separate post. These pants surprised me in several ways, but I wanted to try the pattern anyway. I was concerned about the gathers at the waist as I have certainly don't need any extra bulk in that area. The gathers smooth out so much during wear that there was no problem. The fly front instructions were different and I feared that would give me problems. Funny, the mind works in strange ways and sure enough they did give me the problems that I expected. Actually, they are much easier than the traditional fly zipper opening. I somehow made them difficult. I won't get into the construction details as Shannon did such a great tutorial. If you want to make these pants, I suggest that you read her tutorial. This link shows all the many samples of the pants she has made. If you scroll down to 8/14/09, you'll have the tutorial.

My version of the pants was made from toffee silk noile from Nancy's Notions. The fabric sewed beautifully. For the first time I attached elastic with the serger. That worked really well and is a lot faster than using the sewing machine. The finish is sooo much neater. I do have to practice getting my gathers more even, but the results this time look fine when I'm wearing the pants. Here's a picture that shows the full pants:

I'll definitely be making these pants again. I have a number of comfortable pants patterns, but these rate #1. The sewing doesn't take much longer than pullon pants (unless you try to make them difficult like I did) and the fit is nicer especially around the hip and tummy area (I don't need any extra fabric there!).

August Review: Highs and Lows

For August, I completed two garments and almost finished a top. I'll do a post soon about the reason that top didn't quite make the August total. During two lack-of-focus weeks, I traced a bunch of patterns and even cut out a few of them. Most of them will be put away until Spring arrives. A few went on my Fall sewing list. I am so ready to start sewing for cooler weather. I'm looking forward to this hot, steamy weather ending.

On the positive side, I did attach collar bands and collars for a blouse and a jacket. I thought my collar points were good, but had a long way to go. Then, I compared them to a Liz Clairborne blouse in my closet. I'd still like to get closer to perfect, but the collars were as good as the Liz blouse. Perhaps, I'm being too hard on myself. I'll always be working on sewing skills - at least I'm progressing!

The blouse is V2634 made from a cotton print from GorgeousFabrics. Although the colors are not the most flattering for me, I loved this fabric when I first saw it on the site. It hardly winkles (amazing for a cotton) and is soft and comfortable to wear. I also like the pattern. I made size 12 in the shoulder/sleeve area and size 14 in the hip area. The fit is about as good as I can get with my lopsided body. I love the blouse and know that I'll make it many times. Next time, I'll put in sleeves and, hopefully, the pattern will work as well.

The other finished garment was Loes Hinse Hepburn pants. For some reason, I struggled with the zipper insertion. I've done lots of fly fronts, but this method was different. It took a long time for me to wrap my mind around it. I tried this pattern because Shannon likes it so much. At first, I thought that it was sort of silly to put a zipper in pants with an elastic waistband. Once I finished them I understood why she likes the pattern so much. The fit and comfort is much better than pullon pants. I haven't worn them out yet. That will be the real comfort test. These pants deserve their own post. I'll do pictures and blog about them later in the week.

That's about it for August. Right now, I need to hem my last summery top and get going on Fall Sewing. Yea!!

The Buttonholder Took My Mojo

I lost my sewing mojo for the past couple of weeks. I never thought that it would happen to me. That'll teach me to be so smug. I was ready to put button holes in my red, white, and blue blouse. Also, I need to do button holes for the green linen jacket. For some reason I just could not bring myself to do them. I don't understand it. I have done many successful button holes. So, I found all kinds of other things to do: organizing stuff, tracing patterns, fitting patterns, cutting out garments, planning Fall sewing, even doing some much needed household chores. Meanwhile, Big Bertha (my sewing machine) sat idle and didn't even call for me. Thursday night DH wanted to watch "Top Chef". I said go ahead, without complaining, and just recorded "Project Runway".

Well, last night I watched all 3 hours of Project Runway. I was so happy to see Tim Gunn and Heidi again!! I was disappointed with the winners. At the same time, I enjoyed listening to the judges' comments. They must know a lot more than I do about style. I would not buy or make many of the garments they liked. Mainly, Tim Gunn is extremely motivating to me. Finally, I'm happily sewing again. I was up and at my machine early this morning. My button holes for the blouse are done. Of course, the thread broke on one of them so I had to rip and resew. I think that was my sewing machine reminding me not to forget it for so long! I've almost finished the Loes Hines Hepburn pants that were cut out in May. The instructions are so different from what I usually do. I couldn't make sense of them. The light finally dawned today. They are still challenging for me to make. I'm not sure that they are particularly difficult. They are just different from the way I normally sew pants. Well, I have the waistband to sew down, hems, and hook and eye. The mojo should last long enough to finish those few things!

I am going to take a sewing break now and look through the stash for jacket fabric. I've joined the ChanelJacketSewalong and still need to finalize the pattern and fabric.

I am amazed at how animals can pickup on our moods. Harry, the cat, is usually happily testing fabric and meowing with pleasure at my sewing efforts. Today, he is back to his normal Sewing Guru self. For a while, he looked more like this closing shot:

Progress

Sewing has been more challenging this past week. New skills just take a while to learn! Most of the sewing has been good with a few clinches. (I made sure my seam ripper was handy.)

The pockets are ready to be sewn on the Burda 02/2009 #115 jacket. I know at least one of the individuals who reviewed this pattern put the pockets on before doing the hem and facing. Burda instructions have you sew the pockets over the hem and facing. This time I decided to go with Burda so the pockets are waiting. I spent a lot of time preparing the pockets because I really want them to be exactly even and the same size. So, I used a variation of a tip from Shannon Gifford. (Note: Her courses on PatternReview are excellent.) She suggests tracing the pocket without seam allowances on cardboard. For these pockets, I used template plastic which, IMHO, is easier for tracing than cardboard. The first step is pinning the pocket pleats on the pattern:

Then, I traced the pocket and flap without seam allowances. The pattern slipped a bit with those pleats pinned so I checked and corrected the tracing. I labeled both pieces, partly because I'm scatterbrained and partly because I may use these tracings for pockets on another garment.

Then, I cut out my traced patterns and used them to iron the seam allowances over them. The ironing was easier and more accurate. I checked my accuracy by folding the pockets and flap at the center mark to make sure both sides were the same. Then, I checked the pockets and flaps to make sure they were the same size. They were! (Before making the pleats and pressing the seams, I added fusible interfacing to the top of the pockets. I do use pockets and want them to be stable.)

Here's my big clinch:

The linen I used has some lycra in it. The fabric must have slipped because the upper sleeveon one side was cut way off grain and hung crooked. I ripped and carefully pinned this sleeve so that it would hang on grain. What a pain! The difference between the upper and lower sleeve is not big so, hopefully, I can just shorten the sleeves a bit and still use the sleeve bands. Naturally, I did not have enough fabric to cut another top sleeve! After the fact, I remembered a tip that I read somewhere (can't remember where) to press fabric with a dry iron, spitz with water, and iron parallel to the selvage. I tried that with a skirt I cut out last weekend. The fabric lies so nicely. I guess I've been steaming the fabric out of shape. That won't happen again!!

The collar is ready. I really worked on it. The points are pretty good but I sure wish I could do them better. I know, from past experience, that the points can only take so much fiddling before a hole appears. I used Pam's tutorial for the collar except that I didn't have to turning tool she used. That tool is on its way to me now.

I had to read the instructions for installing the collar several times. Finally, I figured them out. The front facing is only sewed to the notch for the end of the collar before the collar is sandwiched in between.

I did pin the CB and shoulder points to check the fit first. We'll have to see how this works.

Then, I moved on to doing another collar for a shirt that I had cut out. I just had to try that collar again quickly. It was sort of like someone who comes close to drowning in a pool. They had better get right back in (assuming there is no physical damage, of course) and start swimming. Otherwise, a lifelong fear of water can occur. I certainly don't want to have a lifelong fear of pointed collars. Here's my blouse V2634, in process, that I hope to finish this weekend: