The Lost Jacket

No, I didn't lose my JAM #4. I'm referring to the TV Series "Lost". Actually, I sometimes felt like I was mentally losing it while working on this simple shrug. It's the Sewing Workshop e-shrug. Here's a view of the back:This jacket started back in April when I saw Robin's version of this pattern. I copied her sewing techniques, including watching episodes of "Lost" while doing the handwork. There is no copyright on blogs, right? I'm not planning on selling the shrug, selling the techniques, or even doing it again! I do like the results and certainly enjoyed watching "Lost". It took me a while to finish because I was doing more watching than sewing and, of course, I had to watch the Japanese subtitles. I got to the beginning of Season 2, but there probably won't be a Season 3 in my future. The series is starting to drag for me and is getting a little too weird. That's good because I started doing more sewing.

Now, I'll get back to sewing process. I used a bamboo knit rather than a double knit. Yes, that caused me problems using techniques that were done on a double knit. If you are interested in the entire process, check Robin's blog. She did not say how wide she cut her binding. I decided (just to make life interesting) to cut a narrow binding. The lesson learned was: drapy bamboo knit interfaced with pro-sheer does not turn easily. I almost got it all done before the interfacing started to tear. The only solution was to serge the jacket edges or make a new, wider binding. In my usual manner, I took the more challenging option. I cut my binding 2 1/2" wide. It was still slow going while turning the binding. Then, I got lots of practice doing a fell stitch. Yes, I do a decent rolled hem which will appear on future jackets of this type.

Many thanks to those of you who e-mailed me about the jacket muslin in my last post. I'm overwhelmed by the amount of caring from bloggers. I do have the back fixed to my liking. The front fits, but the sleeve area does not look just right to me. I'm going to let it set a bit and then look at it again. Overall, I like the jacket. I learned a lot about fitting my body in this extremely tedious and frustrating process.

Can this be fixed?

I have this possibly crazy desire for a fitted jacket. My favorite is FSG 1945. This pattern offers a number of style changes using the basic pattern. The fear of fitting kept the pattern sitting in my pile of "one of these days". Then, I discovered that NancyErickson offers an internet fitting service for her pattern. My Fitting Adventure began with a size 12 which is much too large for me. Although I measured a jacket that fits to determine the size, it's still hard for me with a totally new pattern company. After several weeks of trying to get it to fit, we decided to trash and start with smaller size. Here's the back of Muslin #2. Actually, it looks reasonable compared to my first muslin (not shown to avoid appearing ridiculous). This is size 8 which is the smallest size. It's still too big in the top although I had to squeeze into the hip area.



I took a tuck in the top area, took in the back and side back, and let out the front/middle front seams (gotta have room for the tummy). Here's the adjusted muslin that I'm working on now.

The old winkles disappeared and new ones appeared! I just that's the life of fitting garments. Can it be fixed? I hope so. I'm taking in the back around the waist area and taking a larger seam in the armscye. We'll see how that goes. I'm not showing the front because I haven't worked much on that. I hope that it will look like this:

I also am working on the 1945A front. If all goes well, it will look like this:

While waiting for responses from Nancy, I've been working on two other jackets. I'm 95% done with one (lots of hand sewing) and 1/3 done with another. With an ailing husband, there is limited sewing time around my house these days. I'm going to have to sew like a maniac to catch up with my JAM commitment.

For now, I'm back to my jacket fitting adventure.

Burda Style 4/2011 #115

I've been a terrible blogger. The weeks seem to go so fast! I do have one legitimate excuse. I've spent a lot of time trying to be a nurse to an ailing husband. For a while, I was cooking 3 meals a day. That's amazing for me since I never cook anymore. I guess I did all right because he's a lot better now and back to his role as the family chef. I tried to work on my April jacket and seemed to make a mess of everything in this simple jacket. It's close to being finished now so I'll save that tale for another post. I also have been working on muslins for May, June, and July jackets. Do you think that I've had some problems focusing? I know I did! I did finish fitting one jacket. Hopefully, I can catch up with my JAM project this summer. At least, that's my plan.

I was able to wrap my mind around a simple dress that I love, Burda Style Magazine, 4/11 #115.

I added a neck band and eliminated the pockets. I don't use pockets on a dress and certainly don't need any extra stuff on my hips. The back is simple. (Please forgive the tilted tripod. I'm out of practice with it.)

I've chosen the fabric to make a top version of this pattern. I probably won't make the dress again, but I like the neckline for a top. This top goes with the pants and jacket that were planned for June. I wish I could get my sewing to keep pace with my plans!!

Originally, I planned this dress to wear for our 50th wedding anniversary celebration in Paris. I wanted a style and fabric that would pack well. This poly satin worked well for the intended purpose. Of course, that trip was cancelled. I still got to wear the dress. My thoughtful children took us to dinner at a local French Restaurant. We had wonderful food and a great time. That evening was so special that I don't regret our missed trip. We may make it to Paris sometime in the future. I'll even sew another dress for the trip!

Meanwhile, I'll try to concentrate on jackets!

JAM #3 Vogue 8675

The jacket was almost finished in April. I had a little motivation problem doing the last bits (pulling through threads and final pressing). It's so hot here that I wanted to work on brighter summery fabrics. It's too close to the final product to go on the UFO shelf (There's no room for it anyway!) Finally, a long self-talk got me to finish it.

The jacket was quick and easy to sew. Actually, it closer to a wrap than a jacket. I did shorten the length and the sleeves a couple of inches. That's it. I plan to make a LBD to wear with it, but I won't push the black outfit motivation too far. I doubt that I'll wear this until cooler Fall weather. Usually, I crop out the mess around a garment in photos. This mess consists of the patterns and fabric that are in my dreams and will, hopefully, become a reality soon.

This picture shows the jacket the way it is suppposed to be worn. At least, it's closer to the pattern envelope (see last post). Most of the time, it'll swing open like the first picture. I will wear something a bit more appropriate than the brown that's on Dolly. (Reminder to myself: I need to get that dressform covered properly in the white fabric already purchased.)
This is a photo of the back:

Here's a closeup of the trim:

So, I haven't posted in two months. I've been a bad blogger, but I have good reasons. I finished tax season with minimal stress and took off for my usual week at the beach. We went to Daytona Beach Shores which is less than 30 minutes away. Yea, we didn't have the stress of driving. It's a great place to just relax, read, enjoy the beach, and watch the sunset. All the action occurs in closeby Daytona Beach. We had plenty of that in our younger days but prefer a quieter atmosphere now.

Soon after that, I spend a very long Saturday night in ER with DH who was having severe stomach pains. He had to have emergency surgery and is still in the hospital. He is doing much better now. Hopefully, he can go home today. I keep watching the phone. I know that doesn't make the call from the hospital come any faster. Somehow, I feel better just looking at it.

Most of my sewing has been done in periods of less than 15 minutes. I've kept it to simple projects and am amazed at how much I accomplished. I've made pull-on pants to match the paisley jacket and t-shirts. A couple of the tops are worthy of a post, but those are long sleeve. I seldom wear long sleeves in the summer, but I'll do a post later. Right now, I'm working on the Sewing Workshop e-shrug. This is another simple project. One day last week I decided to forget the world and just sew. It was great except the shoulders were finished and bound on the right side rather than the wrong side. I bound them with the knit fabric and the look was c***. It took a while to rip those seams and fix them with a better looking rayon binding. I didn't even get upset at my stupidity. I just sewed. I was so happy to have a block of time to sew!

JAM #3: The Planning

Although I'd like to start sewing yellows and corals for Spring/Summer, I have a wardrobe for a more conservative outfit. Honest, there are times (not too many) when I want to just look like a lady. So, it's time for a LBD and a matching jacket. The jacket will be V8675 which has some swing (can't be tooo conservative!). I plan to make view A (the red one) without the pockets.

The fabric is a drapy RPL that I bought from Timmel's years ago. I need to add something to break up all that black and think I'll add this trim. I tried my entire stash of trims and this was the only one that looked like a possibility.

Now, I have a dilemna about the direction to turn the trim. I could do it this way.

I could turn it around and do it this way.

What do you think? Maybe I'm making a big deal out of nothing.

First, I have to finish the pants and top to wear with the paisley jacket. They are a camel color. Fortunately, I can wear the jacket with lots of other colors. Yea! I love the idea of adding some versatile jackets to my wardrobe.

JAM #2

I finished M3750 over a week ago. It's tax season for me so I'm just getting to posting about it. I like it although it's not in style (according to the fashion magazines). I'm really not too worried about the Style Police. What do they know about MY style anyway? First of all, I like paisley. I don't give a hoot if paisley is out and florals are in. Besides, there are some little flowers in the design, if you look closely. I understand that pink is the New Red. That's nice for those people who can wear pink. There are very few shades of pink that I can wear. Usually, pink makes me look like I'm going to my own funeral. That's not exactly the look that I hope to achieve. The pink that I can wear is more of a coral color. Hmmm...good idea there for a jacket in the near future. Anyhow, I like red which supposedly was the New Black last year. Maybe I'll make a black jacket,too. I'm not sure but I don't think black is one of the "Season Colors".

The jacket is loosely fitted. It does fit well in the shoulders and neck. Geez, I think I finally got that fit right so I can start moving down my body for a more fitted look in the future. I'll probably wear this jacket opened most of the time. Here's the back:




I made the jacket from a cotton twill. It's super simple to sew. Of course, I have to complicate it by drafting a lining. I'm very glad I did. The cotton would be difficult to slip on and off. It's getting hot here in Florida. The jacket probably will come off as soon as I go outside.


This is the pattern envelope:

I may make it again in a suede for Fall, as shown in the large picture.

Now, I'm working on pants to wear with the jacket. I'm using a light weight, tropical weight garbadine. I'm afraid they might bag if I don't underline it. I always seem to add a complication to simple garments. That's just the joys of sewing I guess. :)

JAM #2 is Coming

Unfortunately, it's still February in my sewing room. I'm still working on my #2 jacket, M3750. It's a simple, loose fitting jacket. If I hadn't decided to add side pockets and a lining, I would have been wearing it by now. I like the additions so I week late is all right by me. This picture was taken on the last day in February. I had the lining and buttonholes/buttons to finish. As of today, the lining is finished. I drafted the lining using Claire Shaeffer's "High-Fashion Sewing Secrets". Thanks Rachel for directing me to that resource. Claire's directions worked like a charm.


The most difficult part of the jacket was matching the print. I don't brag very often, but I will this time. This is a picture of the front. I barely can see the pins.

I'm off to do buttonholes! I hope that everyone is having a great weekend!!

JAM #1 S2508

I finished the first jacket of 2011 last weekend, S2508. It's sat on Dolly while I tried to figure out what is wrong. I knew there was something that I probably could fix. Finally, it dawned on me. The buttons are too small. I tried Jo's which is the only local place that I can buy buttons. There was nothing that I would put on this jacket. So, I placed an order for buttons that I think would look great. I decided to go ahead and post about the jacket. It's been too long since my last blog entry. Also, I'm beginning to wonder if it would be worth the work to replace them. Sewing on the buttons is easy enough to do. I'm afraid that I will have to lengthen the buttonholes and hand sew to finish them. That's a scarey thought!! Maybe, it doesn't look that bad after all. I like the jacket as it is and would wear it. Also, my fellow Floridians can be assured that there will not be anymore cold weather. All I have to do is finish a jacket and the weather is beautiful with 78 degree (F) temperature.

I think that the sleeve tabs and ruffles are so cute! I like the belt in the back. I even managed to figure out how to add a hanging chain.

I enjoyed making this jacket. I can see why so many people enjoy sewing jackets. That's good because I have 11 more to sew this year. Even though I'm behind and bringing up the rear in the JAM group, I think I'll accomplish my goal or come close. Still, I will admit to jacket insanity with this one. I did so many stupid things with this jacket adventure. The following is a list for my future reference and, maybe, for someone who wants to embark on this exciting experience:

1. Pay attention to the fabric choice. I'll remember this one when I'm trying a lot of new techniques. I've made a simple jacket but have no experience with tailoring or anything this detailed. I've never been successful with princess seams. So, what did I do? I gave myself plenty of challenges with fabric that ravels a lot, stretches, slips, and generally talks back to the sewing machine. (The conversation was ugly!)

2. Check the lining fit before cutting it. I followed the pattern and the lining did not fit very well. It was too long or slightly too short. I could have taken a little bit of time to adjust the pattern for lining. As it was, I spend a lot of time fiddling around with the lining.

3. Use a heavier interfacing with fronts that have pockets with flaps. Probably, I should have just eliminated the pockets with this fabric. I ignored that realization because I love having pockets to stash my stuff.

4. If I do 4 messy buttonhole samples and, finally, do one that looks good, that doesn't mean the jacket buttonholes will look good. I need to have consistency in the sample or I can expect the same results on the jacket. I did several messes and pulled out a lot of my own hair in the buttonhole process.

5. Pay attention to the jacket style BEFORE cutting the fabric. I originally cut a double breasted jacket. When I did the pin fitting, I realized that the style would look like crap on me. Naturally, I didn't have enough fabric to recut the front and the collar for the style that I made. Ever try to stay on grain when you are recutting jacket pattern pieces? I don't want to think about how long that mistake took to correct.

Overall, I worked my way through underlining and sew-in interfacing with pleasing results. There was no way that I could fuse interfacing to this fabric. Believe me, I tried. Fortunately, I did pay attention to those samples. (If I didn't I wouldn't be showing you a jacket!) I was inspired by the jacket that Gigi made and followed a lot of her construction tecniques. Take a look if you want to see an awesome version of this jacket.

JAM #2 is cut out and ready for sewing next week. This weekend we have lots of family plans. I'll be playing until Tuesday!

Have a great rest of the weekend!!

A Lot Done A Lot to Go

The month is over half over. At least, I'm a little more than half done with my January jacket. Despite the bumps along the road, I'm enjoying jacket sewing. That's good. I still have 12 to finish for the year. I just keep chugging along. As of this morning, this is what I have completed. I like it! I'm following "Jackets for Real People" which is opened on my bench. For the first time, I'm pin fitting the fabric. There are a lot of minor adjustments needed. It's a lot easier to move pins than use the seam ripper. Here's the front. I thought I had the front pinned straight until I saw the photo. Oh, the magic of pictures!

The back needs more work. I'd say those seams are not quite straight. (LOL)

The side seams are not straight either. I guess I was just having a crooked day!

First, I went to the dress form. I'm not flexible enough to work on the back while wearing the garment. I do believe that I see some winkles.

A few minutes work and it looks better to me.

Next, I finished the sleeves next. I think that they hang better and are super cute.

It's a rainy, dreary day in Central Florida. Roxy doesn't think much of peeing in the rain and is exhausted. She's busy taking a well-deserved nap (in her viewpoint).

My answer to such a dreary day in "sunny" Florida is to check out the new patterns. There's a BMV sale today and tomorrow. Then, I'll work on the other jacket front. :)