Dawdle or Surge

My sewing and blogging is going at a dawdle pace. That pace is like my dog, Roxy, when I call her to come into the house. That's the pace where she swings her hips from side to side as she slowly moves one foot forward. She moves more to the side than forward as she looks up with big brown eyes that say, "Do I have to?". I'd like my sewing and blogging to be at a surge pace. That's the pace when Roxy sees her favorite neighbor. That dog can move faster than lightening. She's licking his hands before I can see where she is. I'd like my sewing to be going at the surge pace. Certainly, my mind is ticking at that pace with lots of ideas for Fall. Unfortunately, my sewing is dawdling. I got a few garments made in September, but feel like I moved more to the side (looking at lots of new ideas) than forward (actually sewing garments).

In September, I decided to celebrate National Sewing Month by exploring ways to improve my sewing skills. I reviewed a number of books, watched online webcasts, and watched DVDs in my stash. The highlight of this educational experience was the webcasts by Cynthia Guffey. She has webcasts on Seven Core Sewing Skills, How to Fit a Jacket, and How to Fit a Skirt. All three are excellent. I plan to use a lot of the information in the near future. The webcasts can be found on Daily Craft TV. The cost is only $9.99 each for unlimited viewing. The DVDs I watched were from Silhouette Patterns. The regular price is $29.99 each, but there often are special offers at a reduced price. The ones that I watched and will use this Fall/Winter are: Just Jeans, Leather is for Every Body, and Factory Tips & Techniques-2. Of course, I watched the Silhouette Webcasts as I do faithfully. They are full of helpful information and ideas. These are free and available through the Silhouette website.


I also spent a week at the beach in September. I got lots of wear and compliments from the 3 garments that I did manage to complete. Here they are:

This maxi dress is Silhouette 4000, a swing dress. I had to increase the size of the darts 3/4" to keep the dress from puffing out at the front like a maternity dress. Once I fixed that problem, I liked the fit. The back has a center back seam which gives the dress enough shape to keep it from looking like a tent. I took a picture of the back, but it looks exactly like the front. The seam doesn't show on a photo of this black dress. It is comfortable and casual enough for dinner at Florida restaurants.

This is the the maxi skirt that I wasn't sure that I would ever wear again. I thought it made me look too large. Apparently, that's not a big problem since I continue to receive positive comments. It certainly is comfortable and suitable for lots of evenings out.

My running/walking shorts got lots of use for walks on the beach. The water was beautiful to see and warm enough for swims and body surfing. I used Silhouette yoga pants pattern which I cut shorter.

I like this blouse which still needs hemming. It's made from Silhouette 475, modified to cut on the from fold. Also, I eliminated the collar. To me, the peplum is soft and not too obvious at my hips. There are only 2 problems. First, I can pull it over my head but that stresses the neckline, even with my small head. I know that I have to add an opening in the back or shoulder. Second, this looks like a Spring blouse. I'm ready to sew for Fall so this may get packed away in the UFO section. I do like this modified pattern and will make it again in several versions. In fact, I've altered the pattern by lowering the neckline an inch. I don't want to make that too tight neckline mistake again and have to add an opening.

 October is half over so I'd better get busy and, at least, pick up my dawdle pace. Happy sewing to you!

Dare I Disagree with Kenneth D. King?

To celebrate National Sewing Month, I've been reviewing books and webcasts with dreams of improving my sewing skills. One of the books I read  is "Cool Couture" by Kenneth D. King. The "Bag of Tricks" included in the book are inspiring. His writing and pictures are clear and many if them WILL be included in my sewing in the near future. Also, he sounds like a really nice man who I'd like to meet. So, what's this disagreement? In the introduction, he states: "I believe it's better to spend a bit more time with a project and achieve something very special, rather than try to save time or money by sewing running shorts and T-shirts." I wonder where he buys his running shorts and T-shirts. Maybe, the selection is better in New York. Most of the ones I see locally and online are made of poor quality fabric, the construction is shameful, and the prices keep getting higher. Of course, the fit is a big issue for me. I live in running shorts and t-shirts. There are no occasions on my calendar that call for a ball gown. Something special for me is a pair of shorts that fit and feel comfortable. Also, my life gets hectic sometimes. I just want to chill in my sewing room with easy sewing. Yes, I love a sewing challenge as those simple things get boring at times. That's the reason that I opened KK's book. Since, I do sew my running and exercise shorts. I'll share the last pair that I made.

I used Silhouette 3400 and shortened the pattern to the length that I wanted. This pair is a little longer than usual, just below the knee. The fabric is a medium weight cotton jersey purchased from Silhouette Patterns. The fabric is so luxuiant (that means a special luxury). I could sleep in these. I especially like the fit. There is no chafing even when I wear them biking. No, KK, I didn't take shortcuts. They are fast to make, but the shorts are exactly what I wanted.

I hope that all of your sewing is exactly what you want. Happy Sewing!!

Thinking About Proportion

I've done more thinking than sewing during the past month. Hopefully, the results of all that "brain work" will be positive in the future. What I have finished, I like for the most part.

This skirt is S2698 and the top is S4275.

The skirt is a Project Runway pattern with options for the yoke and pleated skirt. I used Yoke B and Skirt F. I think that I have a guide for skirt length that seems to work consistently for me. I've tried a number of different methods and the length is usually about mid-knee. This method gives me a slightly longer skirt that I like better. The formula comes from the late Shannon Gifford. I measured from waist to floor using masking tape to hold the tape measurer for an accurate reading. This number is then divided by 5 to get a base number. The base number is then multiplied by 2, 3, and 4 for proportional skirt lengths. My waist to floor measurement is 39, divided by 5 is 7.8. The first length, times 2, is 15.6 which is way too short for me. The second length times 3 is 23.4 which is perfect for me. (Since I get blurry eyed with too many fractions, I just use 23.5 that is easier to measure.) The top is approximately 7.8 inches from the waist. Since I am almost flat in the hip area, there really isn't any "widest part" to consider in the measurement.

I like the square neckline and the flair of the skirt. I also like the slightly more fitted knit top. The outfit is close to the suggestions from Trinny & Susannah for my "vase/lollipop" body type.
I think that the skirt is a bit too wide although it fits. It comes to close to breaking Shannon Gifford's rule of "no skirt should appear wider than its length". While I love the pockets on this skirt, I think that I'll look better in a more streamlined skirt. If I do make the pattern again, I'll use skirt I which has more pleats and should have a narrower appearance. I may just use the pockets on another skirt pattern. The back does not have any pleats and appears more proportional to me.

I needed a pair of functional shorts that I wear to play, tumble, and climb trees. I made Burda 07/09/113. Although they don't fit as well as I would like, they work. I need to take in the waist another inch (Wow! I love the results of that Firm Body Tape). Next time, I'll take in the side seams a little. The pattern was drafted for cuffs which I eliminated. The shorts would appear better if they were more fitted overall. I won't do that. To me, they are an example where function is more important than style. After all, no one is going to notice how I look (other than acting silly) when I'm rolling around on the floor or racing somewhere. The length of the shorts is my 2/5 skirt measurement (15.5). It works for me for shorts. I think that the top length works for shorts as well as skirts

On another note, I've been reading "The Passage" by Justin Cronin. That has cut into my sewing time because it's a hard book to put down. It's a long book but worth reading. I still have another 200+ pages to go. The reviews say that it will keep you up at night. I read until I'm blurry eyed. Now, I need to get back to sewing. I want to finish a top that I'm making so that I can start on the summer dresses. If I don't get going, it will time for Fall sewing!

The Experimental Shorts

I finished M5393 (OOP) shorts last weekend. I didn't have enough fabric to do the large lower pockets. I doubt that they would have looked very good on me anyway, but they would have been functional. While I'm proud of myself for hanging in there until the finish, I was too tired of the shorts to do a blog post. They took a while because I tried several different techniques. One worked well and the rest will be exchanged for my TNT way of doing things.

I wasn't looking for a fitted look because the shorts are for playing at the park with the grandchildren and similar activities. I started with a size 14 (my usual) and cut them down to a size 12. The view from the back shows that they are still a tad too big, but still very wearable. IF I decide to make them again, I'll go to size 10. Wow! Could I have lost 2 sizes? Honestly, I don't think so. These shorts are just exceptionally roomy. Definitely, this "too big" problem is a new one for me. One of my experiments was to try a casing and drawstring waist. Take a look. This will be the last time you'll see a waist like this from me. I generally wear my shirts out rather than tucked in my shorts. The look isn't very good IMHO for this short body. I don't have much of a waist so I think that I look heavier than I am. I'm aiming for the opposite effect: skinnier than I really am (Ah! The dreams of a sewer!) Also, my shirts tend to pull out and look sloppy.

The pattern calls for the use of twill tape through the casting. To me, that looked messy and very home-made. That meant a trip to Jo's to see if I could find something that looked any better. Actually, there was a great sale so I added about $50 of patterns and fabric to my $1.50 cord. Naturally, I left with a big smile! This is the cording that I used. It doesn't look much better in the picture, but believe me, it makes a big difference!

I usually use Sandra Betzina's method for a fly zipper. It works well for me and looks just fine. This time I decided to follow the pattern instructions. BIG mistake!! It took a while because it was new. Also, I kept thinking that the instructions were backward. Hmmm...should have known. I ended up with the topstitching on my right side rather than the left. I guess they meant the "other right" because the instructions clearly said the right side (I did reread them). Also, the zipper wasn't as neat. It could just be me but I'm won't be trying any new fly zipper methods for a while.

Now, I'm finally getting to the reason that I made this pattern in the first place. There is a slanted side pocket. That's about the only thing about the pattern that is right for my body type and it's the only new technique that turned out well for me. At least, I have one technique that I can apply to future sewing. I think that that style pocket works well for me. Thanks to Beangirl I no longer have a gap with this pocket style. She extended the pocket and the pocket lining to the center seam which becomes interfacing for the fly facing. Here's the easy pattern adjustment:

I love how flat the pocket is.

That's all the "experimenting" that I did. Now, I'm back to my know-how-sewing before trying some more experiments. I do believe in trying new things. Sometimes, they work and are great to add to my bag of tricks.

As an aside, I do have a collection of hats that help with the Florida sun. It's not as big as my fabric, pattern, and shoe collections, but it's growing. This purple hat was $2 at Claire's. Shhhh...don't tell anyone that I bought it at a tween shop. It pays to have a small head sometimes.

Hope everyone is having a wonderful weekend!