Dawdle or Surge

My sewing and blogging is going at a dawdle pace. That pace is like my dog, Roxy, when I call her to come into the house. That's the pace where she swings her hips from side to side as she slowly moves one foot forward. She moves more to the side than forward as she looks up with big brown eyes that say, "Do I have to?". I'd like my sewing and blogging to be at a surge pace. That's the pace when Roxy sees her favorite neighbor. That dog can move faster than lightening. She's licking his hands before I can see where she is. I'd like my sewing to be going at the surge pace. Certainly, my mind is ticking at that pace with lots of ideas for Fall. Unfortunately, my sewing is dawdling. I got a few garments made in September, but feel like I moved more to the side (looking at lots of new ideas) than forward (actually sewing garments).

In September, I decided to celebrate National Sewing Month by exploring ways to improve my sewing skills. I reviewed a number of books, watched online webcasts, and watched DVDs in my stash. The highlight of this educational experience was the webcasts by Cynthia Guffey. She has webcasts on Seven Core Sewing Skills, How to Fit a Jacket, and How to Fit a Skirt. All three are excellent. I plan to use a lot of the information in the near future. The webcasts can be found on Daily Craft TV. The cost is only $9.99 each for unlimited viewing. The DVDs I watched were from Silhouette Patterns. The regular price is $29.99 each, but there often are special offers at a reduced price. The ones that I watched and will use this Fall/Winter are: Just Jeans, Leather is for Every Body, and Factory Tips & Techniques-2. Of course, I watched the Silhouette Webcasts as I do faithfully. They are full of helpful information and ideas. These are free and available through the Silhouette website.


I also spent a week at the beach in September. I got lots of wear and compliments from the 3 garments that I did manage to complete. Here they are:

This maxi dress is Silhouette 4000, a swing dress. I had to increase the size of the darts 3/4" to keep the dress from puffing out at the front like a maternity dress. Once I fixed that problem, I liked the fit. The back has a center back seam which gives the dress enough shape to keep it from looking like a tent. I took a picture of the back, but it looks exactly like the front. The seam doesn't show on a photo of this black dress. It is comfortable and casual enough for dinner at Florida restaurants.

This is the the maxi skirt that I wasn't sure that I would ever wear again. I thought it made me look too large. Apparently, that's not a big problem since I continue to receive positive comments. It certainly is comfortable and suitable for lots of evenings out.

My running/walking shorts got lots of use for walks on the beach. The water was beautiful to see and warm enough for swims and body surfing. I used Silhouette yoga pants pattern which I cut shorter.

I like this blouse which still needs hemming. It's made from Silhouette 475, modified to cut on the from fold. Also, I eliminated the collar. To me, the peplum is soft and not too obvious at my hips. There are only 2 problems. First, I can pull it over my head but that stresses the neckline, even with my small head. I know that I have to add an opening in the back or shoulder. Second, this looks like a Spring blouse. I'm ready to sew for Fall so this may get packed away in the UFO section. I do like this modified pattern and will make it again in several versions. In fact, I've altered the pattern by lowering the neckline an inch. I don't want to make that too tight neckline mistake again and have to add an opening.

 October is half over so I'd better get busy and, at least, pick up my dawdle pace. Happy sewing to you!

Carolyn's One Hour Skirt

I was looking for a simple pattern to sew for an event. When I saw Carolyn's maxi skirt, I decided to try it. After all, it looked terrific and seemed to be quick and easy. I had the perfect fabric that I purchased from Gorgeous Fabric a while ago. The fabric was easy to sew and worked well for this simple sew. After all, I just had to cut the fabric to length, sew one side seam, add a walking slit, and put elastic at the waist. One hour later, the skirt was finished. I loved it! The top is Silhouette 195 that I made this Spring. I got lots of compliments when I wore this outfit...many more than I ever remember. Then, I saw the pictures. OMG, I look huge. Maybe, I looked thinner when I was in motion. (I rarely stay still.) Maybe, I looked really bad in the past. (I hope not.) Actually, I debated about even posting the pictures. After two weeks of thought, I decided I would. First of all, I want a record of my sewing joys and mishaps. Secondly, we are all learning. That learning only occurs if everyone shares without restricting posts to those wonderfully photographed garments.

This fabric is 60" wide and is just too big for me. There are too many gathers. I may spend another hour and remove some of the width or maybe not. I'll see. The back view was a big surprise to me. It looks like I need a major sway back adjustment. This pattern is a TNT. I never had a problem before so I think those skirt gathers are pushing the top up. After trying the top on without the skirt, I will add a small sway back adjustment. It never showed in the other tops and dresses that I made from this pattern but it does in this light weight jersey.

I have a few other garments to photograph and post. I like them all - sure hope the pictures don't show any surprises! Mainly, I'm trying to step up my sewing skills. After all, it is National Sewing Month. After sewing simple for a while, I'm having fun trying new approaches. Happy Sewing!!

Burda Style Magazine 04-2010-125

I finally finished my red skirt this weekend and wore it Saturday night. As I was finishing some handwork Saturday afternoon, I felt like I was on Project Runway. The bow was doing some big time flopping around. No, I didn't glue it although I'll admit that I was tempted. Burda describes this skirt as : "The posh, slim-cut skirt lends aristocratic superiority to a wearer while a pleated hem flounce and back bow add a delightfully fanciful touch." I don't have any desire for "aristocratic superiority" and didn't feel any. The rest of the description is accurate. I love the skirt.

The pattern did not have any facing. I thought that I could be lazy and sew it per instructions. I've never sewed a lining directly to the top of the skirt. I'll never do it again! The waist was not very stable. I did use a woven wool with some lycra so that could be part of the problem. Often, laziness doesn't pay! I'll go back to using a facing or waistband or, at a minimum, elastic.

I used my skirt sloper for the top of the skirt. I have a high right hip so I always have to make this adjustment. Other than that, I made the skirt without alteration and followed the instructions. Yes, I really was able to understand the instructions -- scarey. I made a straight size 40. If I made it again, I would go with size 38 so that the skirt would be a bit snugger. I didn't consider that the lycra would cause some stretching. (Shame on me!)

I love the flounce and the bow. I think that the back is particularly cute.







Here's a close up of the bow:



I'm working on my shirt pattern and having a fit. Actually I should say that I am not having a fit yet. I've thought about changing patterns, but I am going to be stubborn. I'm determined to make it work!

Thinking About Proportion

I've done more thinking than sewing during the past month. Hopefully, the results of all that "brain work" will be positive in the future. What I have finished, I like for the most part.

This skirt is S2698 and the top is S4275.

The skirt is a Project Runway pattern with options for the yoke and pleated skirt. I used Yoke B and Skirt F. I think that I have a guide for skirt length that seems to work consistently for me. I've tried a number of different methods and the length is usually about mid-knee. This method gives me a slightly longer skirt that I like better. The formula comes from the late Shannon Gifford. I measured from waist to floor using masking tape to hold the tape measurer for an accurate reading. This number is then divided by 5 to get a base number. The base number is then multiplied by 2, 3, and 4 for proportional skirt lengths. My waist to floor measurement is 39, divided by 5 is 7.8. The first length, times 2, is 15.6 which is way too short for me. The second length times 3 is 23.4 which is perfect for me. (Since I get blurry eyed with too many fractions, I just use 23.5 that is easier to measure.) The top is approximately 7.8 inches from the waist. Since I am almost flat in the hip area, there really isn't any "widest part" to consider in the measurement.

I like the square neckline and the flair of the skirt. I also like the slightly more fitted knit top. The outfit is close to the suggestions from Trinny & Susannah for my "vase/lollipop" body type.
I think that the skirt is a bit too wide although it fits. It comes to close to breaking Shannon Gifford's rule of "no skirt should appear wider than its length". While I love the pockets on this skirt, I think that I'll look better in a more streamlined skirt. If I do make the pattern again, I'll use skirt I which has more pleats and should have a narrower appearance. I may just use the pockets on another skirt pattern. The back does not have any pleats and appears more proportional to me.

I needed a pair of functional shorts that I wear to play, tumble, and climb trees. I made Burda 07/09/113. Although they don't fit as well as I would like, they work. I need to take in the waist another inch (Wow! I love the results of that Firm Body Tape). Next time, I'll take in the side seams a little. The pattern was drafted for cuffs which I eliminated. The shorts would appear better if they were more fitted overall. I won't do that. To me, they are an example where function is more important than style. After all, no one is going to notice how I look (other than acting silly) when I'm rolling around on the floor or racing somewhere. The length of the shorts is my 2/5 skirt measurement (15.5). It works for me for shorts. I think that the top length works for shorts as well as skirts

On another note, I've been reading "The Passage" by Justin Cronin. That has cut into my sewing time because it's a hard book to put down. It's a long book but worth reading. I still have another 200+ pages to go. The reviews say that it will keep you up at night. I read until I'm blurry eyed. Now, I need to get back to sewing. I want to finish a top that I'm making so that I can start on the summer dresses. If I don't get going, it will time for Fall sewing!

Fun Skirt

When I wear this S2655 skirt (view B), I feel like twirling around like a little girl. I'm much too old for that, but I do it anyway. I'm all for anything that causes me to feel young!

The pockets took some time to make. Otherwise, it is a simple cotton gored skirt with a flounce.

I considered making the skirt without the pockets. Then, I went back and added them. Although the pockets do not show very well in this print fabric, the added detail makes a positive difference. If you look closely, you can see the tie hanging down from the pocket.

The most difficult part was matching the fabric at the seams. Honestly, I think that it would take about 10 yards of fabric to match the pattern exactly. I'm not going there for a simple skirt. Finally, I just matched the line of the flowers. It's okay for me since the pattern is so busy anyway.

Some Easy Sewing

During March, I did some easy sewing while working on tax returns. I was amazed at what I accomplished with only short periods of sewing! This post is my Winter/Fall Finale. Yes, I realize that the middle of April is approaching. Tax season is winding down for me. If there are no last minute crises, I'm done. Also, I finished all of the cold weather sewing projects that were cut. That's a first for me!

The first two pictures are dedicated to two sewing professionals who are fighting cancer. Both of these amazing women have made a huge impact on my sewing.

The skirt is M3830. It's a simple skirt that is great for working on fit. Shannon Gifford worked with me for over a month in her skirt muslin class. I lost count of the number of muslins that I did. I was almost ready to say that my figure isn't suited for a pencil skirt. With her encouragement, I changed my mind. I love the fit, comfort, and look of this skirt. I now have a sloper to use with future skirt, pants, and dresses. I've taken numerous classes from this amazing woman who has made such a positive impact on my sewing. I'm sending strong vibes for her recovery.

The top is my TNT KS3338 without sleeves. I had to do a lot of easing to stop the armholes from gaping. I like the result, but may reduce the size of the armscye next time. Then again, I may not.

This top is another TNT t-shirt. Normally, I wouldn't show a picture of such a simple, easy top. The thing that makes this top amazing to me is the fabric. I purchased it from Ann at GorgeousFabric. Ann is going through 12 weeks of cancer treatment, but still is an active blogger and busy selling her truly gorgeous fabric. I so appreciate having a source for such nice fabric at a reasonable price. Lisa is sewing a garment a week for the 12 weeks to show support for Ann. I'm not able to join her in this project, but I can send wishes for a strong recovery.

This top is B4347 that I've sewed before. This time I made it in Vera Wang polyester knit from Fabric.com. This pattern will go into my TNT drawer. I like it.

The sweater is Burda Style Karen Cardigan and is my big disappointment for the month. I purposefully made the picture small, but you can see the problems. The fabric is a sweater knit from EOS. It sewed well and the drape is fantastic. The problems are (1) The reverse side shows on the front and makes it look unfinished. I did an impressive job of serging the curved edges, too. *sigh* (2) The style doesn't suit my body and makes me look heavier. I don't need that! Compare this picture to one at the beginning of the post. In the earlier picture, I'm almost dressed correctly for my vase shaped body. Trinny & Susannah recommend pencil skirts and scoop neck tops/dresses that are fitted under the girls. While the top is not exactly fitted, it's not overly loose either. I'm not sure what the fate of this cardigan will be. I may line it or it may be cut into another garment. I do love the fabric.

In other March activities, this picture shows that Spring has arrived in Central Florida. The little pots are peppers and tomatoes that are ready to be planted in the garden. The front garden is weeded and mulched. My manicure is ruined, but the yard is looking a lot better. This winter was the coldest one in the recorded DeLand, Florida history. I could have told them that!

I need to hem a pair of pants to complete my first "Dressing a Lollipop Vase" project. I'll have more on that soon.

Burda 08-2009-110 High Waisted Skirt

I love this skirt and love the fabric. Actually, it was easy to make. I took my time with it because I used Dawn's skirt facing tutorial and made a walking vent for the first time (much easier than I thought!). The fabric is from GorgeousFabrics and is a dream to sew and wear. I like the blue so much that I want to buy more fabric in the color (after I do some stash reduction!!). Unfortunately, I don't have anything to wear with the skirt until I finished a blouse that is currently in progress. I made the belt loops about an inch and a half lower than the pattern. The skirt seemed to look better with my short proportions. Most of what height I have is in my legs. Here's the skirt on Dolly:

In MHO, the inside of the skirt looks a lot neat than what I usually do. I wish that I had thought about matching the patterns on the lining. Oh, well - next time!

Because I happened to have some binding that matched, I bound the hem of the lining. It hangs so well that it was worth the little bit of extra effort.

I'm off to hem a t-shirt in some more wonderful fabric from Gorgeous Fabric. The t-shirt is just standard but the fabric is a lot of fun.

June Review

In my sewing world, June began with a shell that was okay but messy to sew, continued with a dress with good sewing but poor design, and ended with a skirt that I love. That's a pretty good way to end the month! I've posted about the NL6163 shell. The second garment was BWOF 12-2008-114 dress. The polyester knit fabric was not something I usually wear but I really like it. It's been in my stash waiting for the right pattern. When I saw Karen's interpretation of this Burda nightgown pattern, I thought that I had found THE pattern. When I finished it, I was not sure if I had a nightgown or a dress. I put it on the dressform and tried it with a red belt. The belt helped but still "no cigar" in my opinion.
So, I had my photographer and outside designer (DH) take a picture of me wearing the dress. Please excuse the lack of makeup, combed hair, and shoes. I wasn't planning on posting the picture. I decided to go ahead as the picture also shows part of my "organized" sewing room with WIP and I want to have a "before" picture. DH said that something was wrong with the neckline. I think that it is a little too low, but he didn't have a problem with that (men!). He said that the neckline fabric binding makes it look like I sewed it wrong (not so!). I held up some red knit to the neckline and it looked sooo much better. As they say in the Fashion Show, I was "hanging by a thread" although the sewing was fine. Fortunately, I can fix it. Also, I'll add some belt loops. With my high hip, the belt hangs a bit crooked.

The third garment is a stretch linen skirt, BWOF 08-2008-121. I did my usual adjustments: increased the waist at the side seams 3/8", shortened 2 inches, and did a 1/2" high hip adjustment. I lined it with 100% silk that I bought on sale at Fabric Mart. The colors weren't great but it is nice and comfy for lining. The fit was perfect to me. This skirt has a nice swing that makes me smile. I'll do a full review on PatternReview soon.

I will wear it with an over-blouse. I'm just to crooked to show my waist unless I'm showing a design!

I'm pretty pleased with my sewing productivity given that this was a busy month in the garden. Although hubbie is the master gardener, I still have quite a bit of work to do helping him. We"ve closed up most of one of the gardens for the summer.

There are a couple of lima bean and snap bean plants peeking through the covers. Ever try to shell lima beans? I love to eat fresh ones, but they are hard on the nails and patience. We have cucumbers and snow beans still left in this garden.

This picture shows the second garden. If you look closely, you can see the few cherry tomatoes that we have left. There also are collard greens and pineapple plants.I love minature roses. I lost one of my favorites during our three weeks of solid rain. That plant survived 3 hurricanes (barely) and just drowned in the downpour of rain. Anyway, My sweet DH bought me several more. Two of them have been planted in their new homes.

I should be able to spend more time in the sewing room this month. First up is fixing that crazy print dress with a red neck binding. Then, I'll do the buttonholes and buttons for a blouse that goes with the green linen skirt. I almost finished it in June, but didn't quite make it.

Invisible Zipper

Finally, the sewing goddess has granted me a success. I was leary of trying an invisible zipper because there are many people who have trouble with it. Of course, others consider it a simple task. It was time for me to just do it. For the first time, I think it turned out well. I didn't even have to pull out my seam ripper. I know there were no seams to match so I don't want to get too cocky. Now, I believe it is as easy as any other zipper and the results look so much more professional.

For instructions, I used a combination of the tutorial from Els and the instructions in Bernina's Features Book. I have the Bernina invisible zipper foot #35 and wanted to use it. With the foot, it is not necessary to press the coils. For these instructions to work, the zipper has to be at least one inch longer than the opening. My zipper was just a little over 1 inch longer. I started pretty much like a centered zipper: stabilized the zipper opening, sewed up to the zipper opening point and basted the zipper opening. After pressing the seam open, I removed the basting. Thank you, Els, for this info which helped me a lot. My pressing showed me exactly where the zipper needed to be stitched. The zipper coil is placed precisely at the pressed fold. I pinned the right side of the zipper (Bernina does right side first, Els does left side first), checked it was in the right place, basted it, and sewed from the top to the end of the opening. Like Els, I sewed a diagonal line at the end rather than backstitching. Then I closed the zipper (just my approach), pinned it in place, opened the zipper, checked the left coil was on the fold, and basted it. I didn't backstitch when I started sewing the left side as I fully expected to have to rip it! Naturally, I was prepared so it went in just fine. I pulled the zipper pull up near the end of the opening (just a peek so it didn't get in the way of the foot). After sewing to the end of the opening, I pulled the top thread to the back and did a few back stitches by hand. I did not cut off the end of the zipper - doesn't seem to be a problem. If it is, I always can cut it off and bar tack the end. Sorry, I didn't take pictures as I was constructing this. I was focused and wasn't sure that it would work. Here's a picture of the inside of the finished zipper:

The skirt is finished now except for the final pressing. Once I do that, I'll post about the skirt construction.