DeBubbled Delight

This is Burda Style Magazine 05/2010 #106. The Burda description is "The dotted batiste dress is just right for summer. The balloon effect is achieved by a shorter skirt lining that is attached to the hem edge of the dress. The casing elastic in this seam then gathers or "puffs" the hem edge". When I made the bubble version, I did look like a "balloon" and the "puffs" definitely were there. I have enough "puffs" of my own, thank you Burda. I quickly found the seam ripper and burst the bubble.Overall, I like this revised version a lot. I especially like the final neckline although I needed to do several muslin revisions before I felt comfortable with it. I raised the neckline 1 inch and moved it 5/8 inch closer to the neck. I took 1 inch from the center of the bodice and lengthened it by 1 inch. Also, I did a 1/2 inch petite adjustment. I had to fiddle with the back darts a lot. I can't remember exactly what I did now. I did raise and move them. In the final dress, I reduced the side seam 1/2 inch from top to bottom. Despite the muslin fit, the dress was too big in this fabric. I learned a lot about fitting during the process which required a lot of experimenting, trying again, etc. etc. I do like this more fitted look in the top. The trick for me is getting it to fit and still be comfortable. I'm proud of my end results and learned quite a bit that I believe I can apply to other garments. Also, I was delighted with the fabric match of the back invisible zipper.

The fabric is 100% cotton from Fabric Mart. These pictures were taken after running several errands. Although it was hot and humid, the fabric is barely winkled. Amazing!!

On the down side, I wish that I had paid more attention to fitting the skirt. The full skirt is very comfortable, but it could lose about 3 inches in width to make it more A-line. When Shannon made her version, she changed the skirt to a sheath dress. For me, I don't think that the width needs to be reduced that much, but some reduction in width is definitely needed for de-bubbling.

I enjoyed wearing this dress and know that it will get lots of hot summer wear. It also came close to following Trinny & Susannah's rules for my body type. The square fitted top is recommended for my vase upper body and the slightly (I had too much) flared skirt of my lollipop lower body. Of course, I ignore their "rules" on a regular basis but I like using them to try new garment ideas. I love it when it works!

Thinking About Proportion

I've done more thinking than sewing during the past month. Hopefully, the results of all that "brain work" will be positive in the future. What I have finished, I like for the most part.

This skirt is S2698 and the top is S4275.

The skirt is a Project Runway pattern with options for the yoke and pleated skirt. I used Yoke B and Skirt F. I think that I have a guide for skirt length that seems to work consistently for me. I've tried a number of different methods and the length is usually about mid-knee. This method gives me a slightly longer skirt that I like better. The formula comes from the late Shannon Gifford. I measured from waist to floor using masking tape to hold the tape measurer for an accurate reading. This number is then divided by 5 to get a base number. The base number is then multiplied by 2, 3, and 4 for proportional skirt lengths. My waist to floor measurement is 39, divided by 5 is 7.8. The first length, times 2, is 15.6 which is way too short for me. The second length times 3 is 23.4 which is perfect for me. (Since I get blurry eyed with too many fractions, I just use 23.5 that is easier to measure.) The top is approximately 7.8 inches from the waist. Since I am almost flat in the hip area, there really isn't any "widest part" to consider in the measurement.

I like the square neckline and the flair of the skirt. I also like the slightly more fitted knit top. The outfit is close to the suggestions from Trinny & Susannah for my "vase/lollipop" body type.
I think that the skirt is a bit too wide although it fits. It comes to close to breaking Shannon Gifford's rule of "no skirt should appear wider than its length". While I love the pockets on this skirt, I think that I'll look better in a more streamlined skirt. If I do make the pattern again, I'll use skirt I which has more pleats and should have a narrower appearance. I may just use the pockets on another skirt pattern. The back does not have any pleats and appears more proportional to me.

I needed a pair of functional shorts that I wear to play, tumble, and climb trees. I made Burda 07/09/113. Although they don't fit as well as I would like, they work. I need to take in the waist another inch (Wow! I love the results of that Firm Body Tape). Next time, I'll take in the side seams a little. The pattern was drafted for cuffs which I eliminated. The shorts would appear better if they were more fitted overall. I won't do that. To me, they are an example where function is more important than style. After all, no one is going to notice how I look (other than acting silly) when I'm rolling around on the floor or racing somewhere. The length of the shorts is my 2/5 skirt measurement (15.5). It works for me for shorts. I think that the top length works for shorts as well as skirts

On another note, I've been reading "The Passage" by Justin Cronin. That has cut into my sewing time because it's a hard book to put down. It's a long book but worth reading. I still have another 200+ pages to go. The reviews say that it will keep you up at night. I read until I'm blurry eyed. Now, I need to get back to sewing. I want to finish a top that I'm making so that I can start on the summer dresses. If I don't get going, it will time for Fall sewing!

Cheatin' Jeans and Cherry Scraps

I cut out these Loes Hines Cruise Pants in December. The game plan was a quick pair of pullon pants where I could practice sewing on denim and topstitching with the heavier jean thread. The sewing was quick - I just took a long time getting started. Now I really want to make a real pair of jeans and thought it best to get this practicing done. I used a 100 jeans/denim needle and everything behaved like any other fabric. I looked for a 90 needle but there weren't any available at my local store. I just used what I had. I didn't want to wait to order a needle. It's been long enough! For the topstitching, I used 100 topstitch needle and increased the top tension on my sewing machine. The stitches look fine to me. I will invest in a jean double needle for the real pair. I did a fairly good job by using my edge foot twice and adjusting the needle position, but there are places where the distance between stitches isn't precise. Ya' all know how those little imperfections can bug ya. No, they didn't bug enough to rip and sew again. I consider this a learning experience for the next round. I eliminated the side-seam pockets in the pattern and added pockets in the back. I pulled up the top so you can see the pockets. I'm happy with pocket location although I always wear over blouses of some sort. I think I'll use smaller pockets next time. There's not much of me in the back. (I sure do wish I could reverse my body parts so I'd have a nice flat tummy and nicely rounded rear.)

I used the cherry fabric scraps to make the Ottobre 02/09 #1 Camisole Top. I was surprised at how much I like it. The project was quick, used scraps, and (to my surprise) fit pretty well. It's a perfect top for the beach. I doubt that I'll wear it anywhere else. I plan to make many more versions of this. Look out scrap bin! It's perfect to wear under a low-cut top or a jacket. I still have enough cherry fabric left to make a collar or trim for another top. At the present time, that fabric has joined the scrap bin. I love the cherry fabric, but I'm tired of it! Here's a back view of the camisole. The only adjustment I'll make next time is a slight sway back adjustment.

Now, I really should work on the green linen that I've started sewing. I just don't feel like it so I probably won't. I know what happens when I sew a "should" and, so far, the jacket is coming along nicely.

Little Things Make a Difference

I know that little things do make a difference. Why am I so amazed when I actually see the difference? Just goes to show you - When something doesn't seem just right, it probably isn't. The solution takes a while to find. Sooo....Here's my completed BWOF 12-2008-114. It almost became a nightgown (as originally designed by Burda).

I took off the original neck binding. That was so much "fun". I must have patience that I didn't realize I had. I had to be so careful not to stretch the neck. Yes, there were several times that the thought of nightgown sounded pretty good! Once I finished it, I tried the dress on with my new red shoes that I love. Both the shoes and dress instantly looked blah. Amazing!! Fortunately, I had these black shoes that worked fine. For comparison, here's my original dress:

I love the new version. Sometimes a little more time and patience is worth it!

The First BWOF Garment

I finished my first BWOF garment and I know it will the first of many. This one is BWOF, 02/09, #108B. I made a size 40 with no pattern adjustments just to see how it fit. Actually, the fit is pretty good. Next time I make it I'll add a tad to the side seams for more ease, add 1/2" to the shoulder to bring it closer to the neck (bra straps tend to peek out), and include a sway back adjustment which is obvious in the picture of the back. I usually do a sway back adjustment but sometimes can get away without it in a knit. This fabric was purchased from GorgeousFabric and was a joy to sew. It is a polyester mesh with tiny sequins. You can see the fushia sequins if you look closely. Once I cut out the top I honestly questioned my sanity. Here I am with a new pattern from a source I had never used, sewing on mesh for the first time, and sewing on fabric with sequins that I expected to give me a fit. Two hours later, I had a big smile on my face! Sewing on a good quality mesh is not hard at all. Surprisely, the sequins did not cause much of a problem. I only had to remove a couple to turn the hem evenly. I love when a sewing project actually works well!

Next up is a floral knit top and white pants to wear during our beach vacation. Hopefullly, I'll have a post about these later in the week.