Top 5 Sewing Hits

1. V8805 Red Knit Dress

Normally, I don't wear dresses. Perhaps, I just didn't like the dresses I had. I wore this dress  a lot and always received compliments.  

2. Papercut Rigel Bomber

This jacket is my favorite make of the year. Since I live in Florida, I didn't wear it as often as other lighter weight jackets. The weather did permit me to wear it often last winter. Usually, I wear it opened which looks better. I do like it closed because it shows my favorite feature, the zipper.

3. Grainline Morris Blazer

I love this blazer and wore it a lot.  On a whim, I entered it in the Girl Charlee July 4 contest and won  a $75 fabric prize. The fabric is so  comfortable and goes with many other garments in my wardrobe. The pattern is great with clear instructions. There will be another Morris Blazer soon!

4. Blue Prints Saltbox top and Sew It Over Ultimate trousers

This outfit ranks as the most often worn, particularly the pants. Yes, I did hem those pants after looking at the pictures. The pants are starting to show wear now so I definitely will be making another pair.

5. Cashmerette Appleton Dress

I have another dress in the top 5 which surprised me. After trying numerous unsuccessful wrap dress patterns, this one went together like a dream with only a SBA as an alteration. The fabric from Mood sewed easily and is soft and comfy.

I pleased with my successes this year. Next up, I'll show my misses.

Blue Prints Saltbox and Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers

The Saltbox and Ultimate Trousers are two patterns great patterns! I know that I will make both of these patterns again.

The Saltbox is an easy sew, but it was a challenging fit for me. That's mainly because of my body. I did a full bust adjustment, reduced the width of the neckline in the back, and did a 1" sway back adjustment. Although these are typical adjustment for me, the challenge was working across multiple pattern pieces. I think the effort was well worth the time. What a super pattern for color blocking!! I'd like to do it in a knit next time.

The ultimate trousers are a quick, easy sew. The pants took me a long time to sew because I kept doing stupid things. I'll list them at the end of the post in case you don't want to read about the tears I shed. The only fitting adjustment that I did was a 2 inch baggy seat. I typically do a 1/2 to 1 inch adjustment. I'm glad that I did a muslin!! I've noticed that a lot of bloggers have a similar problem so beware if you make these great pants. Kenneth King has a great tutorial on Threads for making this adjustment. I did make the pants a bit long. For me, pants tend to shrink after washing.

Some more pictures:

Here are the CRAZY things that happened while I was sewing these pants:

1. My husband's printer won't work with Windows 10 (that's a warning!) so he used my computer. To add paper, he moved my serger that was sitting next to the printer. I don't know how he did it, but the thread feed was bent and the thread was tangled inside the serger. I was able to fix it, but that took most of an afternoon.

2. The fabric right and wrong side are very similar. I manged to sew them backwards because my chalk marking wore off on one side of the front. My thread matches the fabric so ripping dark navy thread took forever.

3. My needle broke when I was attaching the facing. There was no pin or anything that I could see. It was irritating.

4. I thought that I added 2 inches to the back pattern to compensate for the 2 inch baggy seat adjustment. Somehow, I added the length to the front pattern. Don't ask me how I did that!! Fortunately I had some extra length, but I still had to add a facing. I kept changing the length on the wrong side. I spent at least a day ripping and adjusting the length of the pants. This one really was stupid on my part. (Yes, there was more ripping of dark navy thread!)

5. I was almost finished and the bobbin thread ran out. I should have had enough, but I did all that resewing.

I think there was more, but I've forgotten now. I love this outfit so the pain is fading quickly!

So Sew Easy Cowl Neck Top: A success or a horror?

I've been searching for a cowl neck blouse with a drape and fit that I like. Despite trying a number of patterns, I haven't found the perfect pattern in my quest for a TNT cowl. When I do, I think that I'll put a copy in my safe deposit box. I am getting closer. Don't you like the drape of this neckline?

The pattern is So Sew Easy Cowl Neck Top. It's a quick one hour top to sew and a great one for beginners. I felt beautiful wearing it and received lots of compliments - those cherished ones like, "Where did you buy it"?

The fabric is a rayon knit jersey. I made it in a size 4 with a size 5 for the side seams. I added 1" to the length (next time I'll take that away and reduce the length at least 1 inch).

Now, the horror part.This top was completed in February with the pictures waiting on the computer to be posted or deleted. To me, the pictures show my every figure flaw that I knew and some that I wasn't even aware of having. I'm doing the blog post because I believe that this is a great pattern with a lot of potential for me.

My notes for next time (Yes, there will be a next time):

1. Forward shoulder adjustment of 1/2".
2. Add 1" to width of shoulder seam (don't like fighting a bra strap showing).
3. Check depth of cowl. It's close to being too low for my modesty level now and may go lower with shoulder adjustments.
4. Reduce length 2 to 3 inches.

Since February, I finished a dress (pictures soon), almost finished the BOM quilt, built a new sewing table, started organizing my sewing room (more like a sewing store with so much stuff), and pulled a zillion weeds from the yard. The heat index around here is over 100 degrees so I only work in the yard during the early morning. That's more time in the sewing room. Yea!!

Silhouette 350: The Good and the Ugly

Love the pattern and love the colors. After looking at the pictures, the blouse will go into the the trash bin. First, I will use it as a guide for pattern adjustments. I definitely will make it again. The lines on the pattern are great. Believe it or not, I made a muslin first and worked very hard (too hard?) at fitting it. I should have made another muslin after making adjustments, but I will show you what is now muslin #2. I debated about not doing a blog post, but decided I want to use it for "the record" and someone may learn something from my errors.

My first mistake was using this turquoise fabric. Note to self: If you have trouble straightening the fabric, don't sew a garment with the fabric. This fabric was from my stash. I wish I could remember where I bought it so that I would be cautious shopping there again. The fabric was way off grain. I struggled to straighten it and  thought I had it, but the fabric does not hang well. I've started a pair of capris with this fabric - not sure if I will finish those or not. Another note to self: be sure to mark pivot points after making a muslin. If they change, matching under the seams is a nightmare.

I made a size 3 and tapered to a size 4 in the hips. I think the size is fine. While I made a 1/2" sway back adjustment, I need to increase it to 1" and carry through to the side front panel. The shoulder is so far forward that the sleeves are twisting...need a good inch adjustment there. The bottom of the sides have ridiculous looking "wings" - need to taper those in. The front tab needs to be interfaced although the pattern does not call for it. Honest, I sewed this straight - It just doesn't hang straight.

If anyone has any other suggestions, I will welcome them. This is a a good pattern that just needs work.

I haven't given up on sewing or blogging despite my long blog break. I had a particularly demanding tax season this year, signed up for a quilt block of the month with tiny pieces (a true test of my patience), and went on incredible cruise to the Panama Canal. I am not much on cruises but that's the best way to see the Panama Canal. My pictures don't do the Canal justice, but this one gives an idea of the incredible sight. I took it from the cruise ship as we were going through the Canal.

I'm off for happy sewing and wish the same for you!!

Only An Afternoon

Although I'm a slow sewer, I made Jennifer Lauren's The Afternoon Blouse and hemmed Silhouette 3600 pants in one afternoon. This blouse is quick to make and that includes putting together the PDF pattern and tracing it. I decided to make this blouse after seeing the version made by Shanni. I originally planned the blouse as a muslin, hopefully wearable. I did wear it for a dinner out with family but I know that I won't wear it often. It definitely needs some fitting work. The jury is still out on the wearable part.

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I was surprised at how easy the pattern is to tape together. The sewing is simple for the most part. The front seam and neckline is a bit fiddly, but not hard to do. I did have to topstitch to keep the facing down around the neck and front.

The major problem for me is the bust fitting. I'll have to think about how to fix it, but I definitely need more room. This problem is more obvious in the side view. There is a gap on one side of the neckline. Also, there is a little jag where the circle design connects to the center seam (hard to see, but I know it is there). I don't like the way the sides poke out at the bottom (an easy one to fix). The back needs a slight sway back adjustment (normal for me).

I've finished with the blouse for now, but I haven't given up on the pattern. I would like to make in a lighter weight, solid color fabric. I may use this blouse as a muslin for fitting so that I don't have to make another one. That would make it no longer wearable, but I probably won't wear it much anyway. That's an issue for another day.

The Pants

Silhouette 3600 is a new pants pattern for me. I love it! I had Peggy Sagers fit the muslin at her Atlanta Workshop in March. Peggy was sick the last day so she didn't see the pants made in fabric. After looking at the pictures, I think that I will take in the side seam 1/2 to 1 inch. There also some twisting going on in one of the legs. I'll have to check it. It may be my quick hemming job or it may be cut off grain (in which case the pants will become capris or shorts).

The contour waistband is so comfortable that I could wear it to bed. It is easy to sew. Since I was sewing with one hand at the time, the topstitching is little off in places. It's good enough for me and not a fault of the pattern design. If anyone looks at it that closely, they had better be interested in sewing.

Styling Advice Please

I finished Silhouette #311 yesterday. Today, I tried various pieces of jewelry with it and, finally, decided on a simple gold necklace and red earrings. To me, the shoes are perfect although they don't show very well in the pictures. I'm in love with the fabric. I'm pleased with the fit although it may be a tiny bit too tight. The jury is still out on that. Usually, I don't wear tops that are this fitted. I plan to wear it to a casual Christmas party. Once I put it with the pants that I plan to wear, I wasn't sure whether to wear it buttoned, opened, or partly buttoned. First, the closed version:
This is a side view of the closed version:

Then, I tried the blouse opened since the camisole matches it pretty well.

Then, I tried partially buttoned the blouse:

Although I am leaning toward the buttoned view, I'm not sure. What do you think?

I love the small sizing in the Silhouette patterns and the cup sizing. (I know it doesn't matter but it still feels good!) I used the C cup with size 3 for the top tapering to size 4 at the hip. I didn't make any other alterations to the pattern. That's pretty amazing for me! This was a quick, easy pattern to sew. I cut the buttom of the blouse body and sleeves on the scalloped edges. Yea! There was not any hemming! I didn't even do my usually sway back adjustment. I think that the fit of the back is fine without iit

I guess I should have moved the hose for the pictures. It's been so dry here that I just keep it out on the patio and didn't even notice it. My puppy, Roxy, managed to get into a few pictures. She's always close by. I don't think that I could find a sweeter dog. I have a few other garments finished and planned to take pictures of me wearing them. The camera battery died at the end of these pictures. I have some poor pictures of them on Dolly. I think I'd rather wait until I have some decent pictures.

I haven't blogged for a while because DH was in the hospital again. Poor guy is miserable and in pain. I'm not sure that I'm happy with my new role as "Nurse Rose". I never wanted to be a nurse and have minimal skills in that area. Now, I can even change the bandage over large surgical areas. Please don't laugh. There is a lot of skin prep with my hyper allergic husband. I discovered there are special skin pads and tape that can be used. It's so important to have the right tools for nursing as well as sewing.

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

First up is the good. This is Jalie 2806 Scoopneck Top. I've made it before and will make it again. I especially like the fabric which is a very comfortable cotton knit from the old Fabric Fairy. Roxy seems to like it, too.

The part that is expecially good is the back. Look..no bunching!!! I didn't even pull the top down. I finally have a TNT back knit top that I like. That is an accomplishment for me. :)

Then, there is the bad news, Burda Style Magazine 08/2010 #120. There is nothing wrong with the blouse except that it looks terrible on me. I love the fabric. I was dressing to go out and DH sent me back to closet to find another top. I really tried. You are looking at 20 pintucks around the neck and sleeves (had to add 2 more on the front and back to fit the neck) where I had to measure, sew, and pull through threads. The top is ENORMOUS. The finished version is big after taking 3 inches off both sides. Normally, I make a 38 top tapering to a 40 hip with a Burda pattern. This time I made a straight 38 because I was concerned that it would be too big. It's going in the Goodwill bag. I just hope someone will enjoy wearing it.

You can see jacket #5 sitting on the bench. It has one button and requires 5. I really need to get those 4 buttons on the jacket. I'm dragging my feet because it is a spring/summer jacket. With only a few buttons to go, I don't want to put it on UFO shelf. (There's not any room anyway.)

The ugly part is my own sewing skills. I seem to be making everything twice these days. I don't mean sewing 2 versions either. That definitely is slowing my progress through the sewing list. I thought that I could make the Jalie top in my sleep. Well, I must have shut my eyes when I sewed the neckband. There was a big gap in the front. I had rip the neckband off, regather the front, and sew the neckband again. I never like frog sewing, but doing it with a knit is a slow process for me. The neckband on the pintuck gapped also so I ripped it, added pintucks and sewed the neckband on again. Hopefully, I can get the neck correct with future sewing. With the orange jacket the binding came loose in a number of places. With that one, I made an eye appointment. My eyes are fine. I guess I need to sew a little slower so I can get it right the first time. I'm going to work on a sheathe dress muslin now. The jacket buttons will be there tomorrow!

The Last of 2010

I finally have a Jalie Sweetheart top! Now I know why everyone loves it so much. My only regret is waiting so long to sew it. I wore it for our family Christmas Eve Celebration. Despite sticky fingers and crawling around on the floor, the top still looks fine. The sewing was easy. I like the fit. I like the style. I just plain like this top and will make it again many times. Before I make it again, I will check those diagonal winkles and see what's going on. I didn't notice them before. I'm amazed at what photos will show!The next garment is M5970, a Comfy Blanket for DH. Although it was supposed to be a Christmas present, I gave it to him in November. It was so cold here. I took a cute picture of him that was, unfortunately, corrupted in my computer. He has a face rash and doesn't want a picture taken until it clears. Meanwhile, I want to finish documenting my sewing for 2010. The front pocket is stuffed with fabric for the photo. Normally, the pocket holds his snacks as well as the remote.The most difficult part of this project was cutting it out. I made the L size. It's so big that I had to crawl around on the floor to accomplish that task. The sewing only took a couple of hours. I just serged the edges rather than folding over and stitching. With this heavy fleece, it was too bulky. I also added a foot pocket which he never uses. DH is over 6 feet tall and this blanket still drags on the floor when he stands. If I were to make this again,I would measure the length before finishing. I won't cut this one because he does enjoy wrapping it around his feet.

That's it for 2010! I haven't made much progress on my first jacket for 2011. I'll get back to that tonight.

The First White Shirt

Actually, I should say the first practice shirt in the blog title. I'm embarrassed by the poor workmanship and considered not posting at all. Hey, I don't pretend to be an expert seamstress but I sure am working at it. I did commit to sewing one white shirt with Barbara's white shirt sew-a-long. That mission is accomplished (sort of). Here is Ottobre 5/2010 #5. I like this pattern a lot and think I tried too hard to do a professional job. Maybe the wires in my brain were just loose. I made the collar three times with only a little bit of improvement each time and ended with a stretched neckline! First, the things that I like about this pattern. There are separate upper and under collars. The yoke is nice. The shape of the side seams is great for someone with no waist (like me). It has a slight curve that keeps it from looking like a box. Somehow, I managed to make it a tad too small. It fits but is too tight for my liking. IF I wear it, I will wear it opened over a shirt. I didn't even do the buttons and buttonholes on the front. I'm amazed that DH said he likes the blouse a lot. He's painfully honest about his critiques so I don't think that he was being kind. The awesome cotton fabric helps a lot. It has a light gray toned stripe that adds more than I expected. At least, I got the stripes straight. The fabric came from Timmel Fabric. I wish that I had bought more before Julie went out of business.

Other than my limited skill with a collar and stand, the major problem I had was the fit of the back yoke. When I gathered between the notches, the back bottom didn't fit. I released the gathers until it fit properly. The crappy gathering job is a result of not doing the gathering stitches again. In the front, the gathering thread broke and I didn't bother to do them again. As a result, my gathering is sloppy. I'm pretty good at gathering most of the time. Yep, I will take the time to redo, if necessary, in the future. Originally, I planned to do a placket cuff opening and wish I had. Probably, I didn't need anymore frustration at the time. The pattern instructions have you do a narrow seam for the placket opening. I don't even like them in RTW.

The gathers at the back collar are a result of the neckline stretching. THAT is not part of the pattern. The gathers in the sleeve back are Dolly's fault --- My fault because I haven't gotten around to fixing her too fat back biceps. That part does fit better when I wear it.


It's been a couple of weeks since I finished the shirt. I don't feel better about this shirt now, but I do feel better about sewing shirts. I've already chosen a fabric to make this shirt in a print. It's a good pattern. I just have to add a little width to the side seams. Also, I will make another white shirt sometime soon. I still have that wardrobe need.

Frankly, I just think that my brain has been muddled for the past couple of months. I'm hopeful that explains my poor sewing results. Certainly, it is the reason that I haven't done any blogging. Here's the "highlights" of what has been happening. All the nasty difficulties occurred while we had on and off company and lots of holiday happenings (That part was good!).

In September, I had to make the decision to put my 16 year old cat, Harry, to sleep. He had kidney failure and was suffering so much. I believe, along with my vet, that I did the right thing. I've lost cats before but never had to decide about their living and never owned a kitty more than four years. I knew it would be hard, but I didn't realize how hard it would be. I still feel like there was a part of me removed. In some sense, there was because we were so close for so many years.

DH has wanted a puppy for years. I wouldn't allow that because I knew my beloved cat would be cruel to any other animal. Well, Roxy joined our family in October when she was two months old. She's pretty good but still a puppy. I'll have to say that puppies are more demanding than kittens. I had a lot to learn (and still do). Although it may have been to soon for me, I'm glad now that I have her. She obeys most of the time, has only an occasional potty training accident, and is super affectionate. The main problem that I have now is her love for everybody. She tried to wade through the marsh to get to some people in a boat. Her "come" command didn't work very well, but I did catch her finally.

I live in the lighening capital of the world and have all kinds of protection --surge protectors and lightening rods around and on the house. In one of our storms, I lost my wireless router. DH decided he would order a new one and fix it. That was sweet of him but he is more technology challenged than I am. Two weeks later, I was still trying to get internet. In the meantime, I could use his computer. I don't know how he coped. That computer was so slow that I think I could have run a marathon while waiting for the internet connection. Yes, his computer went to the shop. For $50 he got his computer up to a reasonable speed. As soon as I got internet and email working, my keyboard decided not to type a "R". Okay, keyboards are only $10. Naturally, this occurred on Christmas Eve. DH fought the crowds to buy me one and, yes, that one didn't work at all. The replacement one did. I'm back in business for the time being.

There were a few other unpleasant events: DH developed a rash that is a mild form of cancer and itches like crazy, all of our tomatoes and peppers were lost in a hard freeze after we spent hours covering them, the pipes froze twice during our numerous hard freezes (We spent an hour at 4 AM with a hair dryer defrosting the second time that it happened.) Then, We spent New Year's Eve with the plumber trying to locate the water pipe that apparently burst during the freeze. I probably have forgotten a few things, but I'm glad that I've forgotten.

So far, 2011 has been much better. I feel like the wires in my head are reconnected. In the sewing area, I joined the jacket-a-month group. I'm excited about it and am making some progress on my first jacket. I've done all the little pieces: collar, tabs, pockets, and sleeve ruffles. I think they look pretty good. I'll pin fit this afternoon or tommorrow - just to make sure that I don't have any fit surprises.

My puppy, Roxy, kept looking at me while I was working on the white blouse. I'm sure she wondered why I wasn't having fun playing with the fabric. Isn't that a confused expression?

I had just downloaded pictures of a couple of things that made when we had that surge and lost power. I had to stop because company was coming for dinner. We had electricity in time to save dinner, but the pictures I took were corrupted. Of course, I was efficient for a change and deleted the pictures off my camera. I have retaken the pictures so I'll post the last of 2010 sewing later this week.

Orange Ruffles

I covet the M5522 blouse that Karen is making. She's using a stunning orange plaid that I love. Unfortunately, my body (and my overall appearance) doesn't think much of bright plaids or most plaids on my top part. I've had this pattern, one of the Pattern Review Top 10, for a while now and never got around to making it. After the inspiration from Karen, I have the fabric chosen. I also found buttons that I really like with it. They pick up the orange and the shades of red in the fabric. It's on the sewing list and will be a blouse soon. I'm planning to do View C with the ruffles. I love ruffles but have to be careful because I'm only 5' tall. I think this fabric will work. The ruffles can be eliminated if they look like I'm playing "little girl".

I got my new computer yesterday. I'm quickly developing a love affair with it. So far, everything is working like a dream and soooo fast. This post is a test. I've been using Kodak Easy Share, but want to start using Photoshop Elements. I decided not to load both programs and just learn how to use Photoshop. That seems to be working fine with the simple things that I did before. I can expand my knowledge base gradually now. I'd like to do more with my blog photography. That is, I'd like to work on it between sewing projects. Right now, I need to get my e-mail working and do some sewing!

S2922 Tunic

It's time for an update. I finished the S2922 tunic a while ago and wanted to take pictures of me wearing it. The fit is better on me than on Dolly (Her arms are too fat so I have to put her on a diet before long.) Anyway, I think the top turned out pretty well for a wearable muslin. I definitely will make it again in good fabric. The pattern is an "inspired by project runway" one and has lots of options for different tops and dresses. I think that pattern purchase will get lots of use!

I made the front and sleeves straight from the pattern. Well, almost straight from the pattern. I did use one size smaller for the neck, shoulders, armscye and sleeves. I tapered the side seams to the hip line which fits my straight body and still gives it some shape. I can pretend, right?

In the back, I eliminated the gathering and adjusted the yoke to fit. The gathering made me look more like a hunchback than I am. The fit is wearable but I will check the back with photos of me in the blouse. It may need a bit of tweaking.

Most of the month I have been working on a pencil skirt muslin with multiple tries. DH was starting to get irritated taking the photos. I usually am reasonably patient about pictures, but I wanted those photos right away so I could post them on the class board. Now I am started to think seriously about going the timer and tripod route. That means a new camera and, naturally, I want a good one. Hey, Christmas is coming! Maybe DH will be tired enough of the "Mr Deville, I'm ready for the closeup".

While waiting for the skirt feedback, I've been working on a hopefully wearable muslin for the J Stern Tee. I like the style a lot but would never wear it as tight as she does. I've just about got it (I think). The skirt muslin is done but still needs marking, sewing up the areas that are pinned, and a final check fitting. Of course, the jeans class starts Monday. I need to do a jeans muslin in the next few days. Jeans are too much work to have something I can't wear because of the fit. Naturally, there are a number of garments in the November Burda that I'm itching to make. Oh my, there's so much to do and so little time.

August Review: Highs and Lows

For August, I completed two garments and almost finished a top. I'll do a post soon about the reason that top didn't quite make the August total. During two lack-of-focus weeks, I traced a bunch of patterns and even cut out a few of them. Most of them will be put away until Spring arrives. A few went on my Fall sewing list. I am so ready to start sewing for cooler weather. I'm looking forward to this hot, steamy weather ending.

On the positive side, I did attach collar bands and collars for a blouse and a jacket. I thought my collar points were good, but had a long way to go. Then, I compared them to a Liz Clairborne blouse in my closet. I'd still like to get closer to perfect, but the collars were as good as the Liz blouse. Perhaps, I'm being too hard on myself. I'll always be working on sewing skills - at least I'm progressing!

The blouse is V2634 made from a cotton print from GorgeousFabrics. Although the colors are not the most flattering for me, I loved this fabric when I first saw it on the site. It hardly winkles (amazing for a cotton) and is soft and comfortable to wear. I also like the pattern. I made size 12 in the shoulder/sleeve area and size 14 in the hip area. The fit is about as good as I can get with my lopsided body. I love the blouse and know that I'll make it many times. Next time, I'll put in sleeves and, hopefully, the pattern will work as well.

The other finished garment was Loes Hinse Hepburn pants. For some reason, I struggled with the zipper insertion. I've done lots of fly fronts, but this method was different. It took a long time for me to wrap my mind around it. I tried this pattern because Shannon likes it so much. At first, I thought that it was sort of silly to put a zipper in pants with an elastic waistband. Once I finished them I understood why she likes the pattern so much. The fit and comfort is much better than pullon pants. I haven't worn them out yet. That will be the real comfort test. These pants deserve their own post. I'll do pictures and blog about them later in the week.

That's about it for August. Right now, I need to hem my last summery top and get going on Fall Sewing. Yea!!

Progress

Sewing has been more challenging this past week. New skills just take a while to learn! Most of the sewing has been good with a few clinches. (I made sure my seam ripper was handy.)

The pockets are ready to be sewn on the Burda 02/2009 #115 jacket. I know at least one of the individuals who reviewed this pattern put the pockets on before doing the hem and facing. Burda instructions have you sew the pockets over the hem and facing. This time I decided to go with Burda so the pockets are waiting. I spent a lot of time preparing the pockets because I really want them to be exactly even and the same size. So, I used a variation of a tip from Shannon Gifford. (Note: Her courses on PatternReview are excellent.) She suggests tracing the pocket without seam allowances on cardboard. For these pockets, I used template plastic which, IMHO, is easier for tracing than cardboard. The first step is pinning the pocket pleats on the pattern:

Then, I traced the pocket and flap without seam allowances. The pattern slipped a bit with those pleats pinned so I checked and corrected the tracing. I labeled both pieces, partly because I'm scatterbrained and partly because I may use these tracings for pockets on another garment.

Then, I cut out my traced patterns and used them to iron the seam allowances over them. The ironing was easier and more accurate. I checked my accuracy by folding the pockets and flap at the center mark to make sure both sides were the same. Then, I checked the pockets and flaps to make sure they were the same size. They were! (Before making the pleats and pressing the seams, I added fusible interfacing to the top of the pockets. I do use pockets and want them to be stable.)

Here's my big clinch:

The linen I used has some lycra in it. The fabric must have slipped because the upper sleeveon one side was cut way off grain and hung crooked. I ripped and carefully pinned this sleeve so that it would hang on grain. What a pain! The difference between the upper and lower sleeve is not big so, hopefully, I can just shorten the sleeves a bit and still use the sleeve bands. Naturally, I did not have enough fabric to cut another top sleeve! After the fact, I remembered a tip that I read somewhere (can't remember where) to press fabric with a dry iron, spitz with water, and iron parallel to the selvage. I tried that with a skirt I cut out last weekend. The fabric lies so nicely. I guess I've been steaming the fabric out of shape. That won't happen again!!

The collar is ready. I really worked on it. The points are pretty good but I sure wish I could do them better. I know, from past experience, that the points can only take so much fiddling before a hole appears. I used Pam's tutorial for the collar except that I didn't have to turning tool she used. That tool is on its way to me now.

I had to read the instructions for installing the collar several times. Finally, I figured them out. The front facing is only sewed to the notch for the end of the collar before the collar is sandwiched in between.

I did pin the CB and shoulder points to check the fit first. We'll have to see how this works.

Then, I moved on to doing another collar for a shirt that I had cut out. I just had to try that collar again quickly. It was sort of like someone who comes close to drowning in a pool. They had better get right back in (assuming there is no physical damage, of course) and start swimming. Otherwise, a lifelong fear of water can occur. I certainly don't want to have a lifelong fear of pointed collars. Here's my blouse V2634, in process, that I hope to finish this weekend:

The Aztec Blouse: Gestalt or Fit?

After finishing this S2936 blouse, I had to ask myself a new sewing question. What is more important: an excellant fit or the overall look of the garment?

I have to remember to take "before" pictures when I decide to make a change. Unfortunately, I didn't with this blouse. The blouse pattern has tucks in the front. Originally, I sewed the tucks and was soooo pleased with the fit of the blouse. I've struggled with the fit of woven tops for so long!! The look was not so good as the tucks took away from the design of the fabric. I love this Aztec-looking fabric. It was not happy with the tucks. This time I listened to the fabric and took out the tucks. The Gestalt of the look was much better. The fit is all right but not quite so good. The fabric was happy without the tucks so I left them out. I definitely will make this pattern again in a less busy fabric and include those tucks.

The pattern was easy to make and not difficult to fit. I made a size 12 in the shoulder/armhole area and size 14 in the hips. Next time I'll raise the neckline about 1/2". It's still a bit low although I sewed the neck with 1/4" seams. I had to let out the side seams 1/4" as it was a bit snug (with the tucks, of course). I had to take in the raglan seams on the front and back - probably could have made a size 10 for the neckline and sleeves. I didn't add the band to the sleeves as shown in the pattern. I liked them better with a narrow hem in this fabric.

The fabric is 100% cotton and, surprisingly, does not wrinkle at all. I'm finally on a positive roll - sure hope it continues for a while.

KS 3620

This KS 3620 blouse is really a wearable muslin. I've been working on this pattern, as a fitting excercise, for a while now. I will continue to work on it and probably will have a dozen of them made before I am excited about the fit. Before sewing this one, I did 3 muslins and thought that I had it right (lol). This example is View B which I made from 100% cotton from Timmel Fabrics (now out of business).

Here's a view of the back. I like the tie in the back although it doesn't show very well in the photo.

Now I'm working on a skirt, BWOf 08-2008 #121. I have the invisible zipper in (my first) and hope to finish the lining today.